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As the topics heading suggests: could somebody please post up a diagram of the ECU Pinouts. (my car is a 2003 VQ35)

I've seen them for the RB's.

Reason is, I need to test a number of sensors mainly relating to the Throttle.

I have been having trouble with the engine being overly sensitive on partial throttle. I can't cruise at a steady 50-60kph, it is either accelerating (under the slightest of accelerator pressure) or if I ease off the pressure on the peddle it decelerates, either way I cant hold it steady. However, at higher engine speed - ie about 1 cm or more of peddle movement it runs quite smoothly.

Also when I change gear, or if you simply stab the peddle, it holds the revs for a half second before returning to idle.

I have already cleaned out the throttle body and afm. And it is not a misfire.

If you have had a similar issue, please let me know your solution.

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The throttle body is very large on these cars, causing low throttle resolution problems. I had to install a throttle controller for the same reason, to adjust the pedal sensitivity. Otherwise I have issues cruising at 100.

There are two opposing variable resistors in the pedal. If one fails the ecu limits the throttle and revs, throwing a CEL. I dont think there would be an issue with that. (unless you already have a throttle controller tucked away under the dash you dont know about?)

As to the ECU pinout, is it the same as the g35?

I think the other problems you mentioned are standard and caused by the ecu, eg: the rolloff of the throttle is due to emissions as snapping the throttle closed causes a rich state for a second.

Edited by scotty nm35
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Please post up the throttle body reset procedure - as, funnily enough, the above mentioned problems got worse after I tried to clean it.

G35 - i figured it would be similar, so can someone post it up or do I have to do some real work and go looking for myself.

Chris - that would be me on the phone...answer it. I figure you would know if I had a throttle controller already installed as you have spent more time under my dash then I have. Speed defender is the only thing I know of in there.

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That sounds cool, whats that? :P

Speed limit defender - I believe is the correct terminology. It removes the factory imposed speed limit of 180 kph.

Different brands may use different methods: one type may send the speed sensor into a loop at (say) 175 kph so the ECU thinks the car is still doing 175, when in reality it is still accelerating.

Another type shapes the speed (just like your broadband connection) when it nears the limit it starts to slow (shape) the speed sensor readings down, so for every 10 kph of real speed the ECU sees only 1 kph, so the ECU never gets to 180KPH, so it doesnt start to control your speed.

A completely useless and illegal device for the road, but needed for dyno runs.

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I think the other problems you mentioned are standard and caused by the ecu, eg: the rolloff of the throttle is due to emissions as snapping the throttle closed causes a rich state for a second.

Interesting...it also does it when i pull into the garage. I go up a slight incline in 2nd gear at idle, as I near the top of the drive the engine is labouring at 800rpm, I put my foot on the clutch to coast the last 3m into the garage and the engine will rev to 15-1700rpm momentarily. The whole time i am not using any accelerator.

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Done this and it is not your cruise control playing up. The original problem is still there.

ta! wanted to isolate that from the system.

(was on phone to mum when you called - saw first call - grabbed second.)

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Speed limit defender - I believe is the correct terminology. It removes the factory imposed speed limit of 180 kph.

A completely useless and illegal device for the road, but needed for dyno runs.

How much? What model have you got on yours? Does it just piggyback the ECU? Plug and Play?

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Sorry i took so long, i forgot :)

ECU Resetting Procedures Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.

2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).

2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)

5. Wait about 10 second.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning

Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.

2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.

3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.

5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.

2. Turn ignition switch to “ON”.

3. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.

2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.

3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.

5. Confirm that the accelerator pedal is fully released, then turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.

6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)

7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.

9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.

10. Start engine and let it idle.

11. Wait 20 seconds.

12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

TP SENSOR

Component Description

Electric Throttle Control Actuator consists of throttle control motor,

throttle position sensor, etc. The throttle position sensor responds to

the throttle valve movement.

The throttle position sensor has the two sensors. These sensors are

a kind of potentiometers which transform the throttle valve position

into output voltage, and emit the voltage signal to the ECM. In addition,

these sensors detect the opening and closing speed of the

throttle valve and feed the voltage signals to the ECM. The ECM

judges the current opening angle of the throttle valve from these signals

and the ECM controls the throttle control motor to make the

throttle valve opening angle properly in response to driving condition.

FAIL-SAFE MODE

When the malfunction is detected, ECM enters fail-safe mode and the MIL lights up.

Engine operation condition in fail-safe mode

ECM controls the electric throttle control actuator in regulating the throttle opening in order for the idle position to be within +10

degrees.

ECM regulates the opening speed of the throttle valve to be slower than the normal condition.

So, the acceleration will be poor.

Hope this helps. I'm also selling a Throttle Body for the V35 (new) $250 free post

Link to my throttle body problems http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Li...;hl=error+codes

Also get a scan tool on your car

Good luck.

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How much? What model have you got on yours? Does it just piggyback the ECU? Plug and Play?

Blurry photo of the HKS unit from the iphone.

I have one in the Stagea as well as the V35. Not really Plug and Play as I had to find the ECU pinouts and solder in a couple of connections.

They come with instructions and anyone deft with a soldering iron can do it

post-25601-1267168896_thumb.jpg

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If you have had a similar issue, please let me know your solution.

I've had a myriad of problems with my fly-by-wire system in my x-trail. So much so, I fvcked it off and installed a a cable throttle instead.

Do yourself a favor. Electronic throttles work well, but as soon as you start modifying anything engine or computer wise, they go nuts on you.

I had a hunting idle, no throttle control under 50%, a 3000rpm idle and it occasionally wanted to stall on me, all within the case of installing and tuning my engine computer...

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I've had a myriad of problems with my fly-by-wire system in my x-trail. So much so, I fvcked it off and installed a a cable throttle instead.

Do yourself a favor. Electronic throttles work well, but as soon as you start modifying anything engine or computer wise, they go nuts on you.

I had a hunting idle, no throttle control under 50%, a 3000rpm idle and it occasionally wanted to stall on me, all within the case of installing and tuning my engine computer...

I agree, unfortunately my VQ has an auto behind it.

The ford throttle body I have in the shed would already be on if I could ditch the factory ecu.

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Is the automatic transmission control unit separate to the ECU or is it all in the one box? Reason why I ask is because if I ever were to decide to do a turbo upgrade to a 370GT and couldn't use the Uprev Osiris on it, I would have to do what I did in my former Maxima where the MoTeC M800 pretty much took all the sensors away from the factory ECU leaving it with the tach signal, ground speed, TPS and a few other essentials which allowed it to continue to communicate successfully with the separate TCU for the auto.

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