Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recieved my Mishimoto low temp thermostat today from the states and plan to fit it tonight. Is there a special procedure for bleeding the system?

My informeter displays cruising temps of 93 degrees and up to 105 while stuck in traffic so hopefully the 62 degree thermostat will help lower the coolant temps substantially. I have also seen intake temps over 85 degrees while stationary too, which im trying to lower also.

I picked up some Nulon coolant and MoCool Motul additive, hopefully the standard radiator is up to the task.

post-63525-1266897121_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309344-m35-low-temp-thermostat/
Share on other sites

Scott, just unscrew the air bleeder from the line at the rear drivers side of the engine (I also undid the overflow bottle and the radiator cap), then open up the bottom plug on the radiator.

Edited by iamhe77

I was told you need to change it at 5k and filter at 10k, of course I have a box of filters now so I will be changing them with the oil.

Ive been meaning to do it anyway as I still have a bit of smoke at startup and wanted to try slightly thicker oil. I have 3 liters of 10w and 2 liters of 15w so I will see how that mix goes.

I should think the new thermostat will make no difference to your top temperatures - your stock one would have been wide open by then anyway.

If you use an expensive high quality synthetic oil it should be good for at leat 30,000km. If you change your filter at say every 10k (or more often if you like) the oil should be fine.

I should think the new thermostat will make no difference to your top temperatures - your stock one would have been wide open by then anyway.

If you use an expensive high quality synthetic oil it should be good for at leat 30,000km. If you change your filter at say every 10k (or more often if you like) the oil should be fine.

Soon see if it makes a difference, im confident it will. Obviously the thermo fan kicks in quite high on these alloy blocks. The thermostat box stated 20 degrees cooler running temps, it can only help.

I will leave the oil for 10k if you all think that's fine...

i change my oil every 10k. 5k on an SR20 as its always high up in the rpm, the VQ25DET performs pretty well (in fairly stuck form) under 3k. oil should be fine, but as cam said, id be doing the filter with the oil regardless of how often you change it.

Soon see if it makes a difference, im confident it will. Obviously the thermo fan kicks in quite high on these alloy blocks. The thermostat box stated 20 degrees cooler running temps, it can only help.

I will leave the oil for 10k if you all think that's fine...

Hi Scotty,i have S2 stagea, i do 20,000 pre oil change + i have been SAMPLING my oil,WESTRAC here in Perth do sample kit`s at $26. great price as i set up trend & see what is happening with my oil,i change Filter at 10,000, Nissan Filter aswell,there is some detail`s on my OIL SAMPLING,+ if you go with relocation filter you can Move it so it will be easyer to remove ,good luck Cheer`s Chuckie.

Hi Scotty,i have S2 stagea, i do 20,000 pre oil change + i have been SAMPLING my oil,WESTRAC here in Perth do sample kit`s at $26. great price as i set up trend & see what is happening with my oil,i change Filter at 10,000, Nissan Filter aswell,there is some detail`s on my OIL SAMPLING,+ if you go with relocation filter you can Move it so it will be easyer to remove ,good luck Cheer`s Chuckie.

I have a cooler/relocation kit here but I like where my filter is now is now, right beside the drain plug.

Probably no need for the oil cooler now that the water sits on 70 degrees. :rofl:

dont want to rain on your parade, but a lower thermostat, especially one this low will do a couple of things.

Firstly, if you are running a stock ECU, the engine will be constantly trying to warm itself by running rich until the proper temps are achieved...hence higher fuel consumption, lower performance and added engine wear on cold days (engine clearances are designed for the stock temps). Also it wont lower the temps on hot days, as the thermostat will be fully open on both standard and low temp thermos ay around 90, so no difference.

Your temps are not that high, consider a radiator upgrade first.

dont want to rain on your parade, but a lower thermostat, especially one this low will do a couple of things.

Firstly, if you are running a stock ECU, the engine will be constantly trying to warm itself by running rich until the proper temps are achieved...hence higher fuel consumption, lower performance and added engine wear on cold days (engine clearances are designed for the stock temps). Also it wont lower the temps on hot days, as the thermostat will be fully open on both standard and low temp thermos ay around 90, so no difference.

Your temps are not that high, consider a radiator upgrade first.

If the mixtures are out I will adjust them with the emanage, but I doubt it will change much. The car runs like balls when its over 100c that was the priority. I will let the good M35 blokes know how things go.

Cam is running the Nismo thermostat without issue so I doubt it will be a problem.

Radiator, yes I would love one. Do you have a bolt in solution for me? I will be upgrading this next, after the ecu remap. (which will bring the thermos in at lower temp too.)

Edited by scotty nm35
If the mixtures are out I will adjust them with the emanage, but I doubt it will change much. The car runs like balls when its over 100c that was the priority. I will let the good M35 blokes know how things go.

Cam is running the Nismo thermostat without issue so I doubt it will be a problem.

Radiator, yes I would love one. Do you have a bolt in solution for me? I will be upgrading this next, after the ecu remap. (which will bring the thermos in at lower temp too.)

I have a bolt in solution for you.... but you can't have it :P

There IS a semi-bolt in solution if you want it.....

Ok, I went for a cruise today to check out the temps and mixtures. It cruises on 75 to 80 degrees now so a 15 or more degree drop which is what I had hoped for. Intake temps seem down by 6 or 7 degrees and the mixtures are much better at 11.8-12, from a slightly rich 11.

Very happy with the result, the car definitely pulls harder and seems to shift better too, probably from lower trans fluid temps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...