Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Im after a 2 stage electronic boost controller.

Either one which has wastegate boost pressure and a defined boost pressure chosen by a switch or two defined boost pressure.

Reason is, im trying to setup a fail-safe method, and need a way to trigger to low boost/wastegate pressure from a defined setting when shit hits the fan.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310549-best-dual-stage-boost-controller/
Share on other sites

One option ive discovered is to run a mac valve with a manual bleed valve.

macvalve.jpgmac20valve.jpg

As you can see from the picture, when the mac valve is triggered, it routes it straight to the wastegate and effectively cuts boost. Problem is the mac valve looks chunky and ugly.

Looking for a small decent dual stage boost controller which does the same.

or; how would an EBC react when it is switched off under full boost etc? Will the solenoid open and revert back to wastegate pressure under full load? Has anyone tried turning off their boost controller at 15psi+ ? haha

sounds like overkill.. Whats the theory behind it?

what about an ebc like a blitz dual solenoid which can pull back the gain when a spike and or the threshold has been passed?

I have seen my own work very well on the dyno when I popped a cooler pipe.

greddy profec b has a 2 stages (hi/lo) plus off (wastegate pressure) plus an overboost warning and overboost cut. sounds like all most people would require....guess it depends what you mean by all going to shit.

if you are trying to minimise motor damage when something goes really wrong cutting boost won't do - you need to stop the motor. we use an oil pressure switch in the wire that earths the coils.

But i like what Duncan has said above with the oil pressure switch.

Want to eventually hook mine up with a Hobbs switch (pressure switch ) on both oil and fuel pressure

oh and an over-ride so I can actually start the car

Probly best chance of saving it if all goes wrong, again

edit: I guess if ya made the override so ya had to hold it in/on it wouldnt be bad security too

Edited by noone

thanks guys for the help. Reason why I ask is because im installing a water/methanol injection system into the car which has a failsafe trigger. If the water/methanol flow sensor detects no flow then I want the boost to drop down to wastegate pressure, as the engine will lean out bad if it runs without the water/methanol.

So trying to find best way to cut boost.

Im also looking into how to trigger knock map on my ecu so boost is dropped to wastegate and running on limp mode

Cheers

if you wire in your low level indicator cut out on the power source for your ebc it will revert to stock if triggered.

awesome, thanks for that. Time to get an EBC now. What do you recommend?

Once the system is in, ill be popping past your place for a water/meth tune :down:

Apexi avcr if you can get hold of one that is

It is with out doubt the best ebc on the market today

It has hi and low boost settings with scramble boost and correct me if im wrong but i also think its close looped??

The boost can be controlled at each rpm stage through each gear so you can control the ramp up speed to avoid wheel spin it also has a self learning function, as well as all the gauges built in, boost gauge inj duty throttle speed rpm ect

What i find pritty cool about it is there is a record function that allows play back of reading you have recorded.

Eg boost levels its a bit hard to see if what the boost is doing in real time when your setting it up and trying to keep your eyes on the road you can record up to 4 sensors at one time for comparision play back

They cost a fair bit now but a few come up on the uk ebay sites every now and then and im sure if you go on skylineowners.com and ask a trader there there be more then happy to help if they have them in stock

Or there is a gizmo ebc on the market that is surpose to be quite good for the price you pay about £200 whats that less the $400

May i also advise you to stay away from manual bleed valves from experiance they have a tendancy to want to self adjust and with out a gauge you have no way of knowing.

Just my 2p

Edited by jjskyline79
thanks guys for the help. Reason why I ask is because im installing a water/methanol injection system into the car which has a failsafe trigger. If the water/methanol flow sensor detects no flow then I want the boost to drop down to wastegate pressure, as the engine will lean out bad if it runs without the water/methanol.

So trying to find best way to cut boost.

Im also looking into how to trigger knock map on my ecu so boost is dropped to wastegate and running on limp mode

Cheers

if the ecu supports dual fuel/ignition maps, use the flow sensor to switch maps to a lower ign timing/more fuel map.

Apexi avcr if you can get hold of one that is

It is with out doubt the best ebc on the market today

It has hi and low boost settings with scramble boost and correct me if im wrong but i also think its close looped??

The boost can be controlled at each rpm stage through each gear so you can control the ramp up speed to avoid wheel spin it also has a self learning function, as well as all the gauges built in, boost gauge inj duty throttle speed rpm ect

What i find pritty cool about it is there is a record function that allows play back of reading you have recorded.

Eg boost levels its a bit hard to see if what the boost is doing in real time when your setting it up and trying to keep your eyes on the road you can record up to 4 sensors at one time for comparision play back

They cost a fair bit now but a few come up on the uk ebay sites every now and then and im sure if you go on skylineowners.com and ask a trader there there be more then happy to help if they have them in stock

Or there is a gizmo ebc on the market that is surpose to be quite good for the price you pay about £200 whats that less the $400

May i also advise you to stay away from manual bleed valves from experiance they have a tendancy to want to self adjust and with out a gauge you have no way of knowing.

Just my 2p

unfortunately the avcr is nearly a decade behind and is one of the poorer performing boost controllers.

What?????

ARE YOU KIDDING ME

In the UK this IS the best you can get there is nothing that comes close do doing half the things this ebc can do

It mainly comes down to having it set up correctly performance wise as a vast amount of people out there dont understand it and chuck it in learn mode, so yeah it wont perform that well as its not set up for each car

But set it up for the car with the correct rpm boost vales and gear based boost control function and your laughing

So what have you guys got here that dose all more and better then???

Edited by jjskyline79
What?????

ARE YOU KIDDING ME

In the UK this IS the best you can get there is nothing that comes close do doing half the things this ebc can do

It mainly comes down to having it set up correctly performance wise as a vast amount of people out there dont understand it and chuck it in learn mode, so yeah it wont perform that well as its not set up for each car

But set it up for the car with the correct rpm boost vales and gear based boost control function and your laughing

So what have you guys got here that dose all more and better then???

for starters the blitz spec r is much better especially when combined with the power meter as it can do all the bells an whistles you talk of but at twice the resolution and speed.

even the basic spec r (or any blitz dual solenoid) ramps up noticably quicker than the AVCR (no ramp / gain control) and this is where the AVCR lags behind other controllers that do.

We did alot of testing of controllers back to back and the AVCR placed towards the bottom end of the major jap brands. Ive had avcr's in a few cars of my own and know how to use them but stopped using them 5 odd years back when the later blitz gear started out performing them.

But blitz, Greddy, Sard & Turbosmart , all read boost pressure from the engine by vacuum hose till dashboard. Only AVCR and HKS reads them electronically using a MAP sensor correct me if im wrong??? How is the blitz quicker??? is it also closed loop???

The AVCR has all the bells and whistles built in no need to buy any extra bits but if you buy a power fc you can do even more as you no but at an added cost

As said before you can adjust the avcr to ramp up as fast or as slow as you like at any rpm in any gear so im still lost that you think its 10 years behind and has poor performance it appears to be fully adjustable or at least more adjustable then most it even monitors injector pulse to maintain stable boost, hell it want even start learning until it detects safe stable boost that's a got to be good right??? you can even set the feed back rate on its own self correction

Amongst all the other features there is even a ghost boost map graph to allow easy comparisions as well as the record function and you can have it either presented digitally in anolog or via a graph

I carnt comment on any other ebc because i've only ever used a manual bleed valve personally that i thought was crap really tbh self adjusted could'nt control the random boost spikes and creep and thought it would do more damage then good so got rid asap

I've never had any problem with any AVCR i've set up or seen any that they were slow to "ramp up" but then i would have set it up for the car and what the user wanted and i would have thought they would have said something if it was "slow"

I no people that have them and have no problem with them and have thought they out perform many other ebc on the market by leaps and bounds.

Sorry if this post sounds like im having a go but how is that 10 year behind and poor performance maybe is it to much for some people and all they want is a boost controller???

To me the AVCR is a boost controller.

even the basic spec r (or any blitz dual solenoid) ramps up noticably quicker than the AVCR (no ramp / gain control)

i remeber playing with an AVCR on my mates car, i'm pretty sure it had gain control... unless i'm missing something?

Edited by VB-

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...