Jump to content
SAU Community

Broken Stud On Rear Main Seal...

stricnynel0s
 Share

Recommended Posts

stricnynel0s Collaborator

stricnynel0s

Posted
Posted

Ok today was suposed to be a good day, i got all my parts i was missing and i started cranking on the motor nice and early, but about an hour into it while torqueing one of the bolts to the rear main seal it snaps effortlessly. ok no big dead i have extracted tons of bolts, so i drill it out perfectly center and procede to use my extractor which than snaps in the bolt which is inside the block. i tried almost every bit known to man and nothing grabs it,, i bought a super expensive industrial bolt out but i cannot not drill into the old bolt out. the snap is flush with the block so i cannot try to grip it and take it out. my ONLY option is to drill and extract. does anyone know a good drill bit that i can use to get this out. i am soo f***ing mad i thought i was gunna slam motor on the hood of the chassis in a fit of rage. has this happened to anyone else ? i know better than to ask this, but has anyone else only used 5 of the 6 bolts that hold the seal in place. I am pretty sure only using 5 bolts would not be too bad. i looked at it and it dosent hold see any physical stress, and its rtv sealed. any input. after i messed around with it, i am sure it can onlybe extracted by a machine shop....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310574-broken-stud-on-rear-main-seal/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

good work breaking that one! I've seen plenty of main rear seal bolts stripped but normally the ones from the sump where they thread into the alloy rear seal housing. Anyway I'd probably leave it, if it leaks like a bastard some how (unlikely) you can always take the flywheel off and get to it in the car

I guess you weren't using a torque wrench...these are only m6 bolts right?

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

USA - do you have spark erosion guys over there? They seem to be able to get the impossible studs out..............not sure about ezi outs though, they are tough metal?

Otherwise a Dremel with some tungsten bits and be prepared to break a few, it won't be easy thats for sure.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Carbon tipped drill piece for drilling stainless, BUT you HAVE to drill freaking slowly (Like slowest speed possible!) or you will munt the drill bit.

Carbon tipped drill pieces are used on stainless and other very hard metals.

aerofocker Enthusiast

aerofocker

Posted
Posted

high speed dentst drill and a carbide bit or hers one for you weld a nut the same diameter as the origonal bolt head onto the shank,the nut will almost shutter the weld pool so it doesent contact the rest of the casting,ive done this many times before

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...