Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heh, just makin sure you don't get all habib on us. otherwise we can't invite you to hang out with us cool kids anymore.

:action-smiley-069: so there is still a possibility of me hanging out witht he cool kids??? oh boy oh boy oh boy lol

:action-smiley-069: so there is still a possibility of me hanging out witht he cool kids??? oh boy oh boy oh boy lol

there's an initiation process... a part of which involves jelly wrestling in a bikini with hamish.

bleck

tuff

4age + gearbox is in.... booked in for a wiring job @ adm.... should be drivable again soon!

what it set you back for wiring costs if you dont mind me asking?

ive gota get the 20v wired up, thinking of doing it myself, but its gona be a massive job haha

lol got given things to do and do a write up on a new system. the log on and password they gave me does no work and testers have gone home which means i cant do anythign till they comeback tomorrow morning.

so my write up so far is

1. system does not recognise admin username and password

LOL

woot i have 2 hours to kill yay

Jezz whats plans for you Supra?

Not a lot really. Just stereo and a few small cosmetic things. Getting alarm/keyless entry installed tomorrow and GReddy turbo timer :P

Had it sitting around the house and Lalin (from AI) said he'll install it.

Obviously the engine timer option is useless but I'm gonna use it for the digital speed display, 0-100 times, 1/4 mile etc.

Plus it looks cool :) Blue light will match my interior. Just purchased white/blue LED kit for the dash. The yellowy/green look is dated :D

Not a lot really. Just stereo and a few small cosmetic things. Getting alarm/keyless entry installed tomorrow and GReddy turbo timer :P

Had it sitting around the house and Lalin (from AI) said he'll install it.

Obviously the engine timer option is useless but I'm gonna use it for the digital speed display, 0-100 times, 1/4 mile etc.

Plus it looks cool :) Blue light will match my interior. Just purchased white/blue LED kit for the dash. The yellowy/green look is dated :D

Turbo timer in a N/A car...

I thought you were gonna get a MR2 Turbo?

What you gonna do about your 300ZX and I see you have sold the MR2 N/A...

I thought you were going to give it to your girlfriend?

Well it's really an "auto timer" as it says on the box. Says it works for both NA and turbo. As I said, I had it sitting around and wouldn't mind playing with all the features. Has got a volt meter and stuff on it too. So many useful features. The only thing I won't be using is the engine timer function :D .. Actually knowing me I probably will. Love seeing people's faces when I walk away and leave my car still on :)

Well the MR2 is sold (obviously, to cover the cost of the Supra). I didn't pull 15k out of my ass :P

The ZX... I dunno. Will most likely sell.

Well it's really an "auto timer" as it says on the box. Says it works for both NA and turbo. As I said, I had it sitting around and wouldn't mind playing with all the features. Has got a volt meter and stuff on it too. So many useful features. The only thing I won't be using is the engine timer function :D .. Actually knowing me I probably will. Love seeing people's faces when I walk away and leave my car still on :)

Well the MR2 is sold (obviously, to cover the cost of the Supra). I didn't pull 15k out of my ass :P

The ZX... I dunno. Will most likely sell.

LOL!

Well if you really give your N/A a good thrashing, it's not a bad idea to let it sit for about a minute I guess...

I was going to say, why don't you sell the 300ZX and get something you really want... Unless the Supra is what you really want..?

i was at highpoint yesterday

toyota supra N/A in the carpark

FMIC core bolted in, no pipework connnected

awesome

LOL!

Highpoint is good for that shit.

Saw a Supra there all purple riced up shit...

LOL!

Well if you really give your N/A a good thrashing, it's not a bad idea to let it sit for about a minute I guess...

I was going to say, why don't you sell the 300ZX and get something you really want... Unless the Supra is what you really want..?

Well in my opinion when it comes to P plate legal cars, a Supra is a pretty good choice. When I want to overtake, power is only a down shift away :D

I'd love to go ahead with my ZX project but currently I'm not doing so well with money. If that picks up and my investments go well then I may keep the ZX. If not, Supra becomes my only car.

Well in my opinion when it comes to P plate legal cars, a Supra is a pretty good choice. When I want to overtake, power is only a down shift away :D

I'd love to go ahead with my ZX project but currently I'm not doing so well with money. If that picks up and my investments go well then I may keep the ZX. If not, Supra becomes my only car.

So your 300ZX is your current project car but on hold till your funds increase...

Yeah I have driven my friends N/A Supra.

3lt inline 6 with a Getrag 6 speed.

From memory I quite like that gear box as I recall it was very smooth.

Too bad he had all his stereo shit in the boot and weight a tone.

But now he has single turbo'd it.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...