Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ke's gone up in value brah

gotta get ya self outta dandenong and visits places where people actually pay for cars.

as in not steal them.

fuck off. I'll steal my cars till the day I get caught. nevarrrr!

KE's appreciate in value by 50% when they have a full tank of petrol.

yeh, but car is sold as having NOTHING to do... just get in and sliiiide :(

what? fuck. nooo really? omg. lemme get in on this...

FOR SALE:

1980 honda civic with maccas trays on rear wheels

"NOTHING to do... just get in and sliiiide"

4k ONO.

that's all well and good, but maccas trays only last a few hundred meters at best, so your ad would have to read:

FOR SALE:

1980 honda civic with lifetime supply of maccas tray's for rear wheels

"NOTHING to do... just get in and sliiiide"

anyway... i said i'm starting @ 4k... gotta start above what you realistically expect to get

^^ From memory, you picked the KE70 for a good price.

You'd probably make some cash back too!

:(

4K, that's AE86 money brooo

ngas only go to KE70's cos they can't afford AE86's. no pimply faced maccas wage earner's gonna be able to afford your car.

KE's appreciate in value by 50% when they have a full tank of petrol.

:)

lol I'm just takin the piss. I bought my AE86 for $600 (in running condition) and sold it for $2000 with no engine, no interior etc... so I know exactly how retarded maccas employees are these days.

lol I'm just takin the piss. I bought my AE86 for $600 (in running condition) and sold it for $2000 with no engine, no interior etc... so I know exactly how retarded maccas employees are these days.

LOL!

I saw a matt black KE70, previous owner bought it for $400 and sold it for $2000, stock.

If it is for your R32, it should have been done during compliance...

15 year import bro (well 15 years, 5 years ago). You don't have to do shit, just loosen the cap before you chuck it on the ship to degas.

15 year import bro (well 15 years, 5 years ago). You don't have to do shit, just loosen the cap before you chuck it on the ship to degas.

Ah yeah LOL!

So easy to bring in R32's now.

Mine was bought in under the 15 year rule.

Mohsen, you mechanic should be able to re gas it.

shan, took your advice and tried yahoo japan...and googled it...and

i even looked on nissan silvia hoping those bastards would have a lonesome 18x9.5 super advan gen 2 for me.

but alas i have no luck on any website i try.

guess im screwed. stupid broken wheel.

on a related note anyone know anyone with one super advan gen 2 18x9.5? other 3 on my car are fine. *is broke as a nga with no money for new rims* :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...