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That graph looks like its running a standard ECU - I know its not.

But with the dip in power and ramp up again it looks like the standard solenoid going from 5 to 7psi.....

How does the car make boost? i.e. does it just ramp straight up to 13psi or does it hit about 9 really fast then climbs to 13?

The power curve suggests option 2

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Sort of what I'm starting to think unfortunately.

OK, the cat is only a few years old & is a metallic-substrate high-flow item.

However, before the tune the car was running (although not driven) STUPIDLY rich (7ms pulse at idle) & I know this isn't good for cats.

Would this affect metal cats as much as ceramic ones?

I had a big dollar mettalic cat in mine, was fine and then one day melted itself shut and wouldn't make power.

Check the cat.

That graph looks like its running a standard ECU - I know its not.

But with the dip in power and ramp up again it looks like the standard solenoid going from 5 to 7psi.....

How does the car make boost? i.e. does it just ramp straight up to 13psi or does it hit about 9 really fast then climbs to 13?

The power curve suggests option 2

It actually peaks straight to about 16 psi pretty quickly then drops down to around 12-13 psi & holds at that...

I understand this mate & am not just looking for the dyno to read 300kw or something, but as I say, even driving on the road, it doesn't feel that much quicker than my RB20 did with same turbo, exhaust, intercooler, pod filter & 13psi.

I didn't do a baseline run because the engine was swapped. While it was out a few mods were put onto it to make things easier later on.

Then the stock ECU couldn't handle all the mods so I got the Haltech, bigger injectors & here we are...

I do have an understanding of engines (I am a qualified motor-mechanic although I mainly work on automatic-transmissions & have little to nothing to do with tuning...)

Yes, this will be my first thing to look at. I am just wondering if someone who knows about ECU's & tuning can tell by looking at the fuel & ignition maps whether this is a good or bad tune. Obviously I don't want to fix the leak & go get it re-tuned from the same guy if someone who knows can tell me he hasn't tuned it right...

The internet mechanics won't have the first idea of what is what on your tune. Take it to someone who specialises in tuning your type of car and be happy. Where are you located?

The internet mechanics won't have the first idea of what is what on your tune. Take it to someone who specialises in tuning your type of car and be happy. Where are you located?

Ok, thanks for a straight-forward answer.

I will fix up a few small problems, maybe replace the cat with a mates, fix the leak & take it to a reputable shop.

In Victoria, near Dandenong so will most likely try to get in with Trent from Status (now Chequered) Tuning

At 110 and 150 it looks terrible, it really does look like factory map like that lol

Something is definetly going wrong.

If it was the CAT, wouldn the power curve flatten off much harder and boost also drop when not flowing enough.

When my knock sensors were faulty the car pulled hard then all of a sudden felt like their was a trailer on back, your curve looks bit that way at 110.

i put a turbo (0.64 3076) onto a mates 33 and did a slight tune on his ecu and then we put it on the dyno. had the boost set at 16psi. it would ramp up to 16pis nicely then very quickly (as the revs got higher) drop down to 12psi and only made about 210kw. we tried a few things with boost controllers, etc, even tried running open boost (unlimited boost) and it still did the same. so we pulled the exhaust off the back of the cat. turns out the rear section of the cat had broken off and hard turned sideways and was blocking about 90% of the hole. we cleared that out and ran it again and it held 16psi nicely and made 251kw with a modest tune and coil packs breaking down.

I had a big dollar mettalic cat in mine, was fine and then one day melted itself shut and wouldn't make power.

Check the cat.

My Stainless Magic Cat did the same thing... You didn't buy it from a group buy on here a few years ago?

I don't think the cat is the problem in this case though, because the power graph doesn't flatten off at the top - like it would when there is a flow restriction of some kind.

From what I know but, Neo engines came out with more power? Due to camshaft, ECU specs, etc? So would make more power with less mods than an R33 RB25... However I think you're correct. From reading dyno results, some people with just exhaust, cooler, upped boost, etc make more power than me!

This is true but not that much more 175kw r33, 206kw r34 i think it was... only 35 kw and compair mods.

Also i would be looking at getting a Haltech boost solenoid or ebc before you spend the money on another tune as this will help with better boost delivery.

Just keep in mind boost is not everything and i am sure the tuners on this site will agree 13psi and a good tune should make good power with the right mods..

:thumbsup:

Lol mine was a magic cat funnilly enough. Not from a group buy though.

Lasted three years though so wasn't that bad i suppose.

Yeah mine lasted about 2 1/2 years, it's frustrating, because for the money you wouldn't expect to have a problem with it.

I've now gone back to a hi flow ceramic cat, as I don't want the dramas.

somethings not right. i say its the tuner thats not right. go to trent at status tuning. he will be able to sus it out for ya.

he tuned my R34 with the following

PFC

FMIC

GCG highflow

450cc injectors

HKS cam gears

Z32 afm

3.5" custom turbo back exhaust

my car pulled 235rwkw with 430nm torque. something defiantly dosnt seem right and moving to a new tuner might solve that. i know i did and my car is running much better...

What did the guys say to do? surely they advised a plan of action to get your car up to scratch?

Honestly call them make a booking andt ake it back with a simple bleed valve, connect up the 5/8 hose and give them permission to drop the exhaust if they think its restrictive.

You should then be making 230-250-odd with everything sorted.

can you get the fuel and timing maps/tables with some some actual numbers on them, like this -

ignmap.jpg

Without sounding arrogant if you cant look @ those maps WLSPN already posted and get a good idea of whats going on then your not really qualified to comment.

looks to me like something is breaking down at the 130kw mark, you are making smooth power till there and then it looses it.

But I think I've found the problem, your dynoing a car not a boat [reference to 'Automotive and Marine']

looks to me like something is breaking down at the 130kw mark, you are making smooth power till there and then it looses it.

But I think I've found the problem, your dynoing a car not a boat [reference to 'Automotive and Marine']

Yes it clearly states under his avatar that he has a 32 not a 33... :)

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