Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

ive bought some manifold gasket sheet the one with the metal stuff inside, and was wondering whats the best thing to cut it with ive used sissors to sut the shape out that was fine and a drill to put the stud hole but its the centre bit thats the hard bit ive tried a hole saw, stanley knife and sissors? whats the best thing to use? i know 80% of you will say buy genuine but im not buying 6 x gaskets @45 each? anyone know if a exhuast shop makes up gaskets, im on the gold coast

oh and i forgot to add they are for td05s triangle ones i need 2 x turbo-manifold 2 x turbo-dump and 2 x dump-front

cheers

Ive used many ways but none work well. Snips, holesaws, drillbits, they all rip and tear the metal in the gasket but if you cut undersize you can usually clean it up with small snips.

Clamping it between two bits of wood or alloy, clamp to the table, then holesaw it. Works ok if your drill press is sturdy. Best way would be a proper punch set, one off purchace then you never need to buy gaskets again.

If you had a lathe you could make the punch yourself, do you know someone?

If you have a drill press, use a "gasket cutter" I assume the hole your refering to is the center.

Gasket cutter: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=...IwBA#ps-sellers

Or you can make your own with a centerpunch, piece of wood and a scaple.

Or you could peen it out... ever wondered what the rounded end on a ball peen hammer was for???

Or make a jig and route it out

Or cut a hole in a piece of wood with your hole saw, then use that hole as a guide to cut it out with somthing sharp

J.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...