Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, just wanting to know weather i can get away with out relocating it providing i can get a belt the right size

so heres a few questions for those of you who do alot of these

Is it really nessicary to relocated the tensioner if so what are your reason? 

has anyone got an idea on the length/size/number of teeth required for the belt to be used with standard location of idler and tensioner

I have always re-located it above the water pump as per the DET guide. I don't think there is a right/wrong way of doing it, as long as you can still get the correct tension on the belt, all is good.

Re-locating does make releasing/tensioning the belt a lot easier but. Saves having to remove the lower cover each time.

I have a mate who located his differently to me, and had to cut part of his lower cover away. Just don't go getting all creative like he did, serves no purpose.

Just read the rb30det guide it's all in there. Belt part number for tensioner above the water pump is Dayco 94407. 152 teeth.

Here is a link to a rb30det belt which I assume requires no re-location, I have nfi if you need to use 2x lower tensioners or not but;

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1

It's all too easy now for the new rb30 twin cam kids on the block lol, you even get your belt off the shelf.

Edited by James_03
fair enough, didnt think of that haha, i guess i'll have to drill it now. 

It's either drill, or cut. And it looks much neater to drill.

I will soon be looking for new covers for my motor when I change to the new block.

It's either drill, or cut. And it looks much neater to drill.

I will soon be looking for new covers for my motor when I change to the new block.

yeah, i'll be drilling and relocating it now didnt want to as this is an ultimate budget slap together but.. i guess i gotta do it :) 

It's either drill, or cut. And it looks much neater to drill.

I will soon be looking for new covers for my motor when I change to the new block.

just weld some extensions onto the top cover (this is what was done with mine) and you barely notice it once it is all painted up.

I have always re-located it above the water pump as per the DET guide. I don't think there is a right/wrong way of doing it, as long as you can still get the correct tension on the belt, all is good.

...

Just read the rb30det guide it's all in there. Belt part number for tensioner above the water pump is Dayco 94407. 152 teeth.

I'm getting ready to drill/tap mine right away here. Should a guy use the exact dimensions in the guide ie. 17.7 mm from the deck and 33 mm to the right of that small hole looking at the front of the block?

  • 4 months later...

Sorry to bring this back up guys, but I will be doing this soon and was just wondering does anyone have any tips of drilling perfectly straight (90*) to the block as I don't like the idea of the tensioner being on an angle even if very slight. Don't want the belt jumping off or anything like that, so how have you guys done it?

doesnt have to be perfect if you have the machined surface there, when you tighten up it'll pull itself square.

i used one of the gates belts off just jap and drilled exactly where the guide says to but couldnt even get the belt on, was too far out. ended up using 2 tensioners down the bottom and the belt went straight on, wtf?

thanks, I don't think I will be getting it machined as I'm on a budget and the engine shop in my town is a mega rip off, but I'd assume it's already pretty flat.

HI there

If you are getting the gates belt that is specifically designed for the rb30 conversion, then you don't need to relocate the tensioner (in fact I don't think it's long enough). In terms of the belt rubbing on the covers, I'm not sure what the issue is - I used an rb30e bottom timing belt cover and the normal rb26 top one, and it seemed fine - the belt was close but it won't rub. I also extended the bottom cover by welding on a bit of carefully folded sheet metal (this is the bit that creates a risk of rubbing IMO so as long as you do that bit carefully should be fine).

thanks, I don't think I will be getting it machined as I'm on a budget and the engine shop in my town is a mega rip off, but I'd assume it's already pretty flat.

most 30 blocks are machined there from the factory

just finished bolting my covers on, used the standard 30 bottom cover and 25 top cover and it clears the belt fine

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...