Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last year i was unable to run a tune in the supersprint championships (as i was in class 2D and awd/turbo cars must run stocker calibration) however this year i have been running a tune from Martin at Willall with great results thus far. I had tried another tune from elsewhere previously however it was earlier on in the R35 development cycle (before the latest boost control logic) and initially i was lapping SLOWER when we tried it - simply because the power would spike quickly resulting in wheelspin city! Fun on the street (it was a bit rollercaster like) but not exactly optimal for lap times.

Queue the new Cobb boost control logic; the tune was emailed to me from Martin and uploaded via the Cobb in a few minutes. The result is a more linear application of boost, and substantially less wheelspin / easier to manage on the circuit. For those interested here is the dyno results i had done INDEPENDENTLY in Sydney yesterday. We ran it up in 4th (339awkw) *AND* 3rd gears (353awkw) to satisfy curiosity. Print out from 4th gear run is below. I am pretty happy with the tune, considering it's a mailorder job with no trimming, the boost and AFR's look good to me (although i am no expert obviously). Thanks Martin. The more valuable apspect to this new boost logic is the on-track application of power. We'll be heading out to Wakefield Park next week to improve on our lap records, stay tuned!

dyno.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313469-r35-mailorder-tune-results/
Share on other sites

i didnt bother with the off-the-shelf cobb maps.

Whilst i say the tune has not been trimmed, Martin has sent me a couple of enhanced updates as he has found a few issues after his own on-track experience, that sort of support is gold. I have to say the car has performed flawlessly thus far & like a stocker in terms of street manners.

  • 3 weeks later...

Jim at CRD has just finished the latest tune on my car, now running a consistent 395 atw kw, holding 19 pounds boost all the way (almost) to red line. Cleaned all the sensors, new plugs, - its like getting a new car again. Its amazing, but the car drives so differently, the power delivery is instant and savage the whole way to red line. I'm, going to WSID next wednesday night to try and beat my last time (10.89). Based on the on street improvement, I'm pretty confident I can beat it if I get a good launch.

Whats even better news is that CRD reckon this tune is good for the track. I can lower the boost levels by 2 -3 psi and dial out wheelspin for track use - should still be good for 380kw plus atw on track.

On road, at 19psi I'm getting some sensational wheelspin in second gear, its like driving a V8!

Who said these things didnt have a soul?

I received my COBB AccessPort with mail order Willall tune a few days ago. After a simple 20 minute installation process, I was on my way. The car feels stupidly fast on the street now! It seems to come on boost harder now and the acceleration is laugh out loud fun.

As I have only driven on the street at this point, it is hard to give too much valuable insight into the cars performance after the COBB tune. I can say it feels significantly faster and seems to be terrific bang for buck value. I am booked in for a track day this coming weekend so I will report back after that. If I get the opportunity, I will run the car on a dyno at some point.

Also, I think it is probably just my imagination, but the transmission seems to shift a bit smoother. I can't say this is definitely the case.

you guys are damn brave running a generic tune at the track before checking it is safe on a dyno first! $30k gamble isn't it?

There's always an element of risk with any tune, i guess more with a non-custom job yep. However a number of us have had a good experience with the willall tune, on relatively stock cars, seems to be backed up by track and independant dyno results which confirm the tune is good. So it's not an entirely uninformed decision.

understood....but factory tunes are designed to be safe with the variation of actual cars and conditions they are run under. any tune which makes more power as a result has less margin for safety. maybe a little less, maybe a lot less. either way I bet it does not come with an egnine rebuild guarantee.

I've got no issues with a mail order tune, and I have run one in my race car - but I would always spend $50 to check it on the dyno before hitting the track.

understood....but factory tunes are designed to be safe with the variation of actual cars and conditions they are run under. any tune which makes more power as a result has less margin for safety. maybe a little less, maybe a lot less. either way I bet it does not come with an egnine rebuild guarantee.

I've got no issues with a mail order tune, and I have run one in my race car - but I would always spend $50 to check it on the dyno before hitting the track.

good advice, very true.

I finally tested the car at a Dyno today, to ensure the speed limiter was off and we went up to 220km/hr so assume its OK.

Whilst doing this we measured the power and A/F ratio and were pleasantly surprised.

2008 Nissan GTR running stock 20in wheels and run flat tyres @ 32 psi

mods= centre pipe changed only

Running 17 psi on 98 Octane with Willal tune

366.9 kwatts ATW 690 Newton/Metres Torque.

Sub 12-1 A/F ratio

Video

http://www.flickr.com/photo_embed.gne?id=4...157623014415960

Graph

http://www.flickr.com/photos/90747317@N00/...57623014415960/

Dom

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...