Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last year i was unable to run a tune in the supersprint championships (as i was in class 2D and awd/turbo cars must run stocker calibration) however this year i have been running a tune from Martin at Willall with great results thus far. I had tried another tune from elsewhere previously however it was earlier on in the R35 development cycle (before the latest boost control logic) and initially i was lapping SLOWER when we tried it - simply because the power would spike quickly resulting in wheelspin city! Fun on the street (it was a bit rollercaster like) but not exactly optimal for lap times.

Queue the new Cobb boost control logic; the tune was emailed to me from Martin and uploaded via the Cobb in a few minutes. The result is a more linear application of boost, and substantially less wheelspin / easier to manage on the circuit. For those interested here is the dyno results i had done INDEPENDENTLY in Sydney yesterday. We ran it up in 4th (339awkw) *AND* 3rd gears (353awkw) to satisfy curiosity. Print out from 4th gear run is below. I am pretty happy with the tune, considering it's a mailorder job with no trimming, the boost and AFR's look good to me (although i am no expert obviously). Thanks Martin. The more valuable apspect to this new boost logic is the on-track application of power. We'll be heading out to Wakefield Park next week to improve on our lap records, stay tuned!

dyno.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313469-r35-mailorder-tune-results/
Share on other sites

i didnt bother with the off-the-shelf cobb maps.

Whilst i say the tune has not been trimmed, Martin has sent me a couple of enhanced updates as he has found a few issues after his own on-track experience, that sort of support is gold. I have to say the car has performed flawlessly thus far & like a stocker in terms of street manners.

  • 3 weeks later...

Jim at CRD has just finished the latest tune on my car, now running a consistent 395 atw kw, holding 19 pounds boost all the way (almost) to red line. Cleaned all the sensors, new plugs, - its like getting a new car again. Its amazing, but the car drives so differently, the power delivery is instant and savage the whole way to red line. I'm, going to WSID next wednesday night to try and beat my last time (10.89). Based on the on street improvement, I'm pretty confident I can beat it if I get a good launch.

Whats even better news is that CRD reckon this tune is good for the track. I can lower the boost levels by 2 -3 psi and dial out wheelspin for track use - should still be good for 380kw plus atw on track.

On road, at 19psi I'm getting some sensational wheelspin in second gear, its like driving a V8!

Who said these things didnt have a soul?

I received my COBB AccessPort with mail order Willall tune a few days ago. After a simple 20 minute installation process, I was on my way. The car feels stupidly fast on the street now! It seems to come on boost harder now and the acceleration is laugh out loud fun.

As I have only driven on the street at this point, it is hard to give too much valuable insight into the cars performance after the COBB tune. I can say it feels significantly faster and seems to be terrific bang for buck value. I am booked in for a track day this coming weekend so I will report back after that. If I get the opportunity, I will run the car on a dyno at some point.

Also, I think it is probably just my imagination, but the transmission seems to shift a bit smoother. I can't say this is definitely the case.

you guys are damn brave running a generic tune at the track before checking it is safe on a dyno first! $30k gamble isn't it?

There's always an element of risk with any tune, i guess more with a non-custom job yep. However a number of us have had a good experience with the willall tune, on relatively stock cars, seems to be backed up by track and independant dyno results which confirm the tune is good. So it's not an entirely uninformed decision.

understood....but factory tunes are designed to be safe with the variation of actual cars and conditions they are run under. any tune which makes more power as a result has less margin for safety. maybe a little less, maybe a lot less. either way I bet it does not come with an egnine rebuild guarantee.

I've got no issues with a mail order tune, and I have run one in my race car - but I would always spend $50 to check it on the dyno before hitting the track.

understood....but factory tunes are designed to be safe with the variation of actual cars and conditions they are run under. any tune which makes more power as a result has less margin for safety. maybe a little less, maybe a lot less. either way I bet it does not come with an egnine rebuild guarantee.

I've got no issues with a mail order tune, and I have run one in my race car - but I would always spend $50 to check it on the dyno before hitting the track.

good advice, very true.

I finally tested the car at a Dyno today, to ensure the speed limiter was off and we went up to 220km/hr so assume its OK.

Whilst doing this we measured the power and A/F ratio and were pleasantly surprised.

2008 Nissan GTR running stock 20in wheels and run flat tyres @ 32 psi

mods= centre pipe changed only

Running 17 psi on 98 Octane with Willal tune

366.9 kwatts ATW 690 Newton/Metres Torque.

Sub 12-1 A/F ratio

Video

http://www.flickr.com/photo_embed.gne?id=4...157623014415960

Graph

http://www.flickr.com/photos/90747317@N00/...57623014415960/

Dom

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...