Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So next week I'm getting the engine pulled out of my GTR to have an extended sump fitted. As the car is going to only be used on the track, what are some other things I should consider getting done whilst the donk is out? Along with the sump, it has a brand new N1 pump (which I'm sticking to, don't see the value in upgrading) and I will be installing a 1.5 way Nismo Diff, Twin Plate Clutch and a Breather Tank.

I'm also looking at throwing on a Just Jap oil cooler, and Just Jap Silicone Hoses. How do they fare on the track? Also it worth buying Cam Cover Baffles? Or is the Extended Sump sufficient?

Any other suggestions would be great.

Cheers!

I'd go Jap oil cooler over JJ..... The chinese kit I had was rubbish and a line failed - scared the crap out of me (wasnt JJ, but they looked similar at the time). It was binned for an HKS kit which is far superior. I think of it as engine insurance, cost $800 from nengun at the time.

Replace ALL the rubber coolant hoses if you havent already. Check engine mounts.

A 3qrt high pressure accusump with manual valve.

Instead of the oil cooler, get yourself a bigger radiator, pref twin pass atleast, with built in heat exchanger. Kill two birds with one mod!

Just make sure your catch can has a return from the bottom that plumbs into your sump above oil level on the exhaust side. If possible, also fit another line from the intake side of sump/block to your catch can as an extra crank case vent.

If you are getting serious but dont want to spend heaps of money, get a good quality oil pressure gauge, water temp gauge and two oil temp gauges. One probe in sump, and other probe after cooler/heat exchanger.

I would atleast change the gears in the oil pump.

+1 for not using a chineese oil cooler. Killed 2 rb20's

+1 billion for accusump... I don't know why more people dont run them???

Even if you don't use them straight away, put in any and all crank case vents, drains etc. Don't worry about the cam cover baffles, you can easily put them in with the engine in.

Replace any cracked coolant/vac lines under the plenum... replace the tb gaskests if you havn't allready with metal ones. Pleunum is an ass to get off in the car. also make shure all your coolant/oil lines are good and sealed/secure to the turbo's... again a very labor intensive problem.

Definatly replace the heater hoses too.

hicas out

oil pressure and temp gauges, water temp gauge, mechanical fuel presure gauge at the fuel rail

big sump

head drain

head oil feed restrictor

catch can

big radiator and oil cooler

silicon lines under the plenum, and also intercooler and radiator lines. good hoseclamps too.

i agree accusump is a good idea too, I've never tried it but those running them swear by them

Thats about it....if you don't push it too hard it will be fine :O

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm more or less addressing most of the items Duncan just pointed out, but is the accusump really necessary? I would've thought the hi-octane sump, catch-can and oil cooler would be sufficient? Also this is the hose kit from Just jap:

heathosesetgtrblu.jpg

Would that do the trick?

Cheers!

The accusump is a good way to ensure you dont get oil surge, well thats not true, its a good way to keep your motor supplied with oil while you are experiencing oil surge in the sump. The sump, catch can and oil cooler all address three different areas. The sump and accusump will work well together. Plus the benefit of pre oiling is always good for ensuring bearing life everytime you start the motor.

  Lazy-Bastard said:
Get rid of all the heater/water hoses under the inlet plenum!

What are the benefits? and what happens to the coolant that used to flow out of there?

  JimmyRickard said:
Also what do people think of the Hi Octane sump? Are there any other alternatives?

Wow, didn't realise hi-octane did a sump extension for GTR's. Most people use the Trust extensions.

  JimmyRickard said:
Also what do people think of the Hi Octane sump? Are there any other alternatives?

Rips NZ do a sump extension, they are alloy (not cast) internally baffled etc.. Rob added a temp sensor bung and a couple of #10 bungs aswell for oil return and crank vent.. it worked out cheaper then buying one here due to the $AUD-$NZ.

Lots of road clearance (10mm lower then standard), and the welds are perfect!

http://www.ripsltd.com/services.html

Cheers,

Johno

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...