Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my motor is currently getting rebuilt,

2.6 forged motor standard stroke 86mm pistons

Head has work done to it

Vct and custom billet cams also done to head

Precision 6766 cea billet wheel rated at 935 hp surge ported cover .84 twin scroll

6 boost twin scroll manifold

fuel system on pump fuel

Any one else run one of these 6766 billet turbos yet?

So this turbo is similar size to a gt3076r going off of the numbers its putting out?

It has a higher power rating than the 3076 I think... Yet still spools as early (well actually earlier than mine but thats different)...

Kurtis I don't like you any more, you have more powers than me :(

Nah just kidding :thumbsup:

Kurtis I don't like you any more, you have more powers than me :(

Bump your boost up to 22psi like kurtis is running and it'll probably make close to it, its only like 6-7kw...

Does it make decent power still on slightly lower boost (19ish) or do you need to run the higher boost to make it meet its potential?

Edited by Mitcho_7

It has a higher power rating than the 3076 I think... Yet still spools as early (well actually earlier than mine but thats different)...

Kurtis I don't like you any more, you have more powers than me :(

Nah just kidding :thumbsup:

Haha. They seem like the exact same setups aye.

Im curious to see what it can make with a decat ad screamer pipe

Haha. They seem like the exact same setups aye.

Im curious to see what it can make with a decat ad screamer pipe

Yeah I'd love a better exhaust to get that extra power but I'm pretty happy as is, BUT mine made it with the screamer, so Kurtis probably has more left....

Awesome result!!

Bump your boost up to 22psi like kurtis is running and it'll probably make close to it, its only like 6-7kw...

Does it make decent power still on slightly lower boost (19ish) or do you need to run the higher boost to make it meet its potential?

Both setups made very similar power at lower boost levels, 19 is still around 340 I think

Makes it sound like like it'd be an interesting comparison with a Forced Performance GT3076R-HTA - the slightly improved spool over the GT3076R isn't surprising given its for intents and purposes a 52trim 76mm compressor (like the GT3076R-HTA) with the advantages that can come with billet goodness. Wonder what the PT5558 could do on full kill, though to start with its well proven its worth by matching the GT3076R in power while spooling better.

yeh, for me its definently proved itself as a good option for people wanting something a little different than a 3076r. Do they make twin scroll turbine housings for the 5558 or is that only for the larger frame turbos like yours Jez?

Nice, twin scroll then? With that setup the 1.15 probably wouldn't have been a bad idea, but that is still going to kick all kinds of ass.... I'd put pressure on and say I'd like to see it hit 600kw ;)

When is it going on the dyno?

Nice, twin scroll then? With that setup the 1.15 probably wouldn't have been a bad idea, but that is still going to kick all kinds of ass.... I'd put pressure on and say I'd like to see it hit 600kw ;)

When is it going on the dyno?

Yeah Twin scroll. It feels fairly towy atm with it just running off the gate at 14psi. Will be very interesting to see how it compares with the old HKS T04Z. As for the tune just have to wait & see when mark has the time to come down. Hopefully within the next few weeks.

Pulled 604Hp at all 4 with T04Z on 24 psi So yeah Cant wait to see, Noticed the precision turbo is very Quiet which is a good thing I reckons.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
×
×
  • Create New...