Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm doing some research for a planned build.

Decided i'd take a rwd 26/30dett route.

I've had a bit of a browse through this section and see mixed reports when it comes to finding good rb30 blocks to use.

Does anyone have any recommendations, or is it just a case of luck of the draw?

If theres is a source of good condition blocks, anyone have an average price?

Had a look, no mention of just the blocks, only assembled bottom ends, its the same with rips.

Ideally i'd like to pick up an xrayed and cleaned block i could get on with the buld with (boring etc etc to be done much much later)

you pay about 100 to 200 for them. i got my one for free off some dude off the vl website. gave me full motor and gearbox and all the stuff. there not really worth anything. i doubt youd get many that wont be useable. there generally pretty good still with hone marks after 300000kms and stuff. if it happens to be out of round it will be fixed if you bore it out. think it cost me 60 to hone it and 180 or 250 or something to get it bored out. some wreckers want 330 for them but one guy said he gets them for 150 all the time.

put up a wanted ad on here and any other websites you know and you should get one pretty quick

No one is going to spend the money/time checking out a block just to sell it as is, they will then assemble and sell that way.

just buy a block for $100-$250 and spend your own money getting it checked. I can't see it working the way you want unfortunately.

  Messiah said:
Had a look, no mention of just the blocks, only assembled bottom ends, its the same with rips.

Ideally i'd like to pick up an xrayed and cleaned block i could get on with the buld with (boring etc etc to be done much much later)

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you'll never find one like that at the price you want to pay.

As Ash said, go get a block and do the work yourself :thumbsup:

Nice :) well for the money mentioned above i have no problems buying a few if the fiorst doeasnt work out.

I was just worried they might cost a bit and have a high risk of being busticated.

As a general rule i dont mind spending up where its a smart move, i just hate the idea of spending lots for a unknown quantity.

With what you've all said... i think its time to go shopping.

yeah it does happen, there are some bad ones out there. the first one for my stagea was cracked, didn't find out until it was xrayed.

fortunately in my case the workshop supplying it replaced it. but even so its only a couple of hundred if it doesn't work out

  fatz said:
r31's are about 500 bux

you get an engine with the car

hmmm thats a thought... it could give me someplace to put the rb25 that i'll be putting out of a home.

more seriously, your spot on with this, and it looks like a good option. it would mean i need a bit more kit to get going.

I'd need a crane to pull the engine then i'd need to figure out how to get rid of the body quick afterwards (not alot of room here).

but atleast now i kinda have a plan and i can get cracking.

I'm doing a search, but while i'm at it, can anyone recommend a good engine stand??

yeah get one rated to more than just the basic

this style: 80.jpg

not this style:80.jpg

these motors are damn long and damn heavy. and make sure you've got good bolts with plenty of thread to connect the motor to the stand

  Duncan said:
yeah get one rated to more than just the basic

this style: 80.jpg

not this style:80.jpg

these motors are damn long and damn heavy. and make sure you've got good bolts with plenty of thread to connect the motor to the stand

agreed, if your buying a cheapie, the 4 legged buggers are the way to go, if your willing to spend the coin... Bluepoint makes a wicked collapseable 3 legger. 

they hold the rb motors very very easil, i also have one of those 3 legger cheapies... i only use it when i know i dont have to move the motor around as i dont trust it much even tho it hasnt buckled or anything with a motor sitting on it for about 3-4months straight. even with blankets and other shit thrown over it 

i only use an engine hoist, then once the engine is removed from the car i place the engine on the ground on 2 layers of thick carpet.

working on the donk on a stand would be easier BUT it wont fall far if its already on the ground :down: simply sit on the floor and start stripping it down

  R32 Driver said:
Problem with it being on the ground is after half a day your lower back will be screaming at you

No it doesn't as you're sitting beside it. When on the stand you're bending down and your back hates you. The last few I've done on the ground, the next one is getting a stand as I want to be able to put it up side down easily.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dredgggggeeee time; I have recently finally started driving the car. It sat for so long that the fuel tank gave birth to rust sludge and blocked my lift pump sock and one of my walbro 460's and left grime, rust chunks and muck all through the surge tank and system. I decided to commit and pull the trigger on an oem r32 gtr fuel tank and Frenchys twin 460 / sender / surge tank hanger combo and all new larger lines and fittings etc, also boost doc heater hose kit / new heater core and a heap of other bits and shits like wideband sensor installed in the dump and Syltech iacv + lines and all wired and added to current tune. now having lightly driven it a couple times without issue, I can happily report on the hta3076 in its current tune. still no boost control switched on, 20psi gate springs, car makes 22psi at 3200rpm in 6th gear with 30-50% TPS from cruise at 100kmh. Going by the old graph, this means it should be making 300-325whp at the same numbers above. Very very responsive setup under true road driving loads. all that's left for the build is body loom + PDM, finish the remote aircon setup, install carbon fibre parts and go for full tune and 30psi. the 315 rear tyres are now performing like they're 195's, wheel spin in any gear at almost any rpm, whereas my previous setup hooked up in 3rd no issue, albeit Nt01's back then / RB25 5spd vs (new) old date r888r's Z34 6spd now, + obviously all the support upgrades I listed in the quoted post above. car sits at 1-3psi on cruise at 100kmh, expectations totally exceeded and I'm beyond stoked with all this so far. IMG_4848.mov
    • I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 
    • Can a moderator please move this into the right category.. I've accidently put this into racing build thread 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Being a manual, we very quickly ordered new R34 gearbox (From Nissan) and remaining parts from Kudos motorsports. Would highly recommend the team there. Ultra helpful and quick to share advice and upgrades. We are in the middle of taking the Auto out (Genuine 94,000/kms) and putting the Manual in this weekend. Part 2 of the build will include likely a Plazaman Intercooler and Plenium, Hks Exhaust with Tomei Dump (ordered).
×
×
  • Create New...