Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Im new to the whole skyline thing :). I have been looking to buy a new car (was looking at a brand new accord euro). However I have been offered a skyline to buy and over the last couple of days i have been researching them on the net and have gotten quite interested in buying one. I love driving and the price of the skyline (particularly for it performance appeals to me).

Anyway not knowing much when i was offered the car i thought "wow how can such a good car be so cheap" having always thought skylines where more expensive. However a few of my friends think that the price they are asking is to much.

Who better to ask than the experts :D.

It is a: 1996 Skyline R33 GTS 2.5T (Series II) with a GTR body kit, 3 inch s/steel exhaust, Bilstein Shocks, Lowered GTR Springs, 17" Mags with New Low profile tyres. 100K on the clock.

Those details are straight from what the owner told me so if i have stuffed any up im sorry :(.

Anyway what would be a fair price to apy for this????

THanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31369-newbie-after-a-little-advice/
Share on other sites

Not knowing the condition of the body .... or whether its all mechanically peachy .... i say about $19K - $22K would be fair for it.

My car is basically the same except SI ... and i bought that for $20K 1.5 years ago :)

Lauren

P.S - Driven a Honda Accord :slap: what were you thinking???

take the Skyline for a test drive .... then test drive the Accord .... totally different cars! Accord is ok if your planning on having a family and want a place to pu tthe kids in the back to drive to church every sunday :)

yeh id say around $22k would b reasonable some modified series2's sell for around the late 20's but this one isnt that modified and has fairly high k's

and DONT forget that skylines may seem cheap but trust me, when you add up all the other costs such as insurance and running costs they can become expensive!

a friend of mine thought the same thing but when all the final costs were added up he changed his mind and bought a new commodore instead (yeah poor choice :) )

Its selling for $20,500 ono. I know i can get it for 20 but would hope for 19-19,500.

So sounds as if that is reasonable. Considering i was gonna buy a new car the extra cost arent too bad. I have a quote on insurance for around $1300pa which isnt too bad i dont think.

Now the frightening thing is where do I start with the mods. :)

Also i havent driven a Skyline yet... i am assured that will seal the deal :D

Hi,

It is a:  1996 Skyline R33 GTS 2.5T (Series II) with a GTR body kit, 3 inch s/steel exhaust, Bilstein Shocks, Lowered GTR Springs, 17" Mags with New Low profile tyres. 100K on the clock.  

short answer - about 18k for an auto or 20 for a manual.

long answer - at 100k, most cars, and especially jap turbos require a timing belt change. this is a glaring omission from his details. this can cost upwards of 1k, so be mighty careful.

you probably also want to find out how far back the exhaust goes - i.e. cat back or turbo back. this isnt a big deal, as the cost of fitting it later will be small, but it does give you an indication of what the power output SHOULD be.

Bilstein shocks = coil overs or single shocks?

what brand are the mags? aus or japanese? what state is the kit in, cracks etc.

these are all things which you need to ask them and yourself.

you may also wish to get a leak down test done - a lot of people here have used them as an indicator for what sort of life the engine has had.

finally, be aware that the aussie dollar is VERY strong against the yen at the moment. private importing is a personal question, but it may be worth asking whether waiting for 3 months is worth the (up to) $3,000 that you might save.

I bought my car for $20, on the road a year a go. I could probably buy the same car now for $18 even though the import scheme is now more expensive..

and YES, the drive will sell you. welome to SAUWA.

oh my god buy it

if you dont i am going to go buy it

seriously a great condition series II is worth alot more than western australians sell them for.

its because there are so many series I's its hard to justify the extra that the series II's are worth

but ask any series II owner and they will gladly pay that much more again cos the car is so different yet the same in most regards. confused yet

i would definately take it but only if they agree to a compression test and general look over at a garage of your choice.....sst or hyperdrive etc etc

If you or the car live NOR we can do an inspection which is as good as the RAC ( probably better cos we specialise in them ) and give an unbiased opinion.

Contact us by phone if you wish to book in a time.

Cheers

ken

An inspection from someone like Hyperdrive (kens team) will be hugely beneficial over RAC. RAC really havent got it together with the imports yet, last time i checked anyway.

Definately get it inspected - if it works out well, go for it..Series II look much nicer than those oceanliner series I's ;)

(if it doesnt work out theres an r32 here for sale :( )

If you or the car live NOR we can do an inspection which is as good as the RAC ( probably better cos we specialise in them ) and give an unbiased opinion.

Contact us by phone if you wish to book in a time.

Cheers

ken

Thanks heaps guys. So far your forum has been very helpful.

Unfortunately the car is down south so getting it to perth for an inspection isnt possible. Are there any companies in bunbury who know what they are doing ;). Otherwise ill have to trust the RAC.

Also thanks for the tips on what to look for when buying... very helpful. Particularly the timing belt - if it isnt done guess ill just have to factor that into the bargaining (whats the usual cost for this btw??). If there are any other things i should look for i will be very grateful.

Thanks again... i look forward to posting messages when im a proud owner :(.

the timing belt itself isnt that expensive - i think you can get it done for about $500.

but there's a extra-major-massive service that should go with it - which could easily set you back 900 to 1200 depending on who does it.

I will try and find a link to what is entailed.

An inspection from someone like Hyperdrive (kens team) will be hugely beneficial over RAC. RAC really havent got it together with the imports yet, last time i checked anyway.  

Definately get it inspected - if it works out well, go for it..Series II look much nicer than those oceanliner series I's ;)

(if it doesnt work out theres an r32 here for sale :( )

Ahh, actually that's Ken & Glenn's team. :Bang:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=service+timing

this link has a good list on what's involved:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=service+timing

there used to be a thread in the WA section, but I can't find it. I can't remember which company it was - but there was a link to their list and details on what is involved.

as you can see, it's a pretty major service - not just a timing belt change.

best to probably ring a few (reputable) shops and ask for a few quotes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...