Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, well, this summer is my first summer for my styline, and its giving it hell. My poor baby cannot handle the 49 degree temps! Its absolutely killing my car! I cannot even drive from one side of town to the other without it Hitting the hot mark! I just flushed the system the other day, so its got all nice green water etc.

P.S. How much water does the rb20 cooling system hold? I thought it was something like 9 litres? I can only seem to fit in 5-ish liters?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31404-this-heat-killing-my-car/
Share on other sites

ive herd if you turn the heater on it can cool the engine slightly since the heater core is like a radiator and there is a fan blowing behind it which blows the heated air through to the cabin. The fan blowing on the heater core must cool the water abit.

You could also buy a high pressure radiator cap,(pressure increases the boiling point of water). i think the normal caps are 14-15 PSI.

Make sure u also have ur heater switched on just before you flush your system, and leave it switched to on when u turn your car off. As otherwise there can be air trapped in there.

Sounds a like its a little more than that though, not that there is much room under the bonnet.

Time for Vented Carbon fibre bonnet!! :D

Damn straight, the heat is ridiculous in brisbane, i was just playing NFSU in the office and im sweating... its nite time!!!!

Its not so bad in here, as its airconditioned :D but during the peak in the day even the aircon struggles to condition air !

Theres def something wrong if its overheating like that, mine has never gone above its usuall mark once warmed up, my radiator fluid is like perfect.. always!

and i have a black bonnet ;) turn boost down, air con off

and the most effective ..

pop your bonnet if your doing stop-start driving.. it wont open .. cos u gotta get out and pull it up with that button first.. so it just stays 2inches open and lets the engine breath..

I'll give that a shot and see what happens.. Yes, i was at the gf house, they have air con, and when i left at 10pm to head home... bam.. the heat just hit you. When i left then the car said it was still 39.5....! i think becuase of the heat and humidity.. there is no cooling effect.. because the external temp is as hot as the hot water in the system, so, just like humans at 37 degrees... it sweats... Sound feasable?

knore dude!!! your a lucky bugger!!

Damn straight, the heat is ridiculous in brisbane, i was just playing NFSU in the office and im sweating... its nite time!!!!

Its not so bad in here, as its airconditioned but during the peak in the day even the aircon struggles to condition air !

hehe, if you wnat to try and extract some more heat throw some chunky washers under the back of your bonnet between the latch and the bonnet. Make sure tho that the bonnet doesn't sit above the bonnet catches for safety reasons.

yeah, give your cars a break people, if you dont havta drive .. dont ;)

mase; car goes in next week, so she'll be purring like a tiger by the end of the week, well actually looking like a tiger at the end of the week. Once i put the Hybrid FMIC, Dump Pipe and install the SAFC2SE and get it tuned.. then it will purr like a beast

i bet that silvia with a skyline heart pumps some descent blood :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
    • Back pressure is not really a function of the exhaust itself, but the turbine/housing. So the question/point remains valid. I would be fitting an EMAP tapping point and seeing what is going on in the exhaust manifold before committing to throwing boost at it. Flow. No intercooler is actually rated for continuous operation at any power level wrt temperatures, as they are no actually capable of shifting the required amounts of heat on a continuous basis. They get hot during a pul, then dump some of that heat into the external air (and some back into the internal air) during off load moments/periods). You probaby do need a bigger core, given the power level you're already at is somewhat above the "rating" of the cooler. Put pressure tapping points either side of the core (which possibly you already have, if you have a boost source near the compressor outlet and tapping near the throttle for existing purposes) and report on delta P across the core.   I haven't done the mass flow calculation to see where you would be sitting on the compressor map at the ~450is rwkW level we're talking here, but if you look just at the PR you're running at, which is ~2.8-2.9, then you have a really really wide swath of the compressor map to run in, and so long as you were making between about 45-75 lb/min of flow, you should have really good comp efficiency, with the ideal being betweem 55 and 65. I can't see the need to shift drastically on the map to get better results.
    • Welcome 🙂 The ER34 wheels and slight lowering suit the R33 sedan really well. I'm firmly in the 'keep it stock, at least on the outside' camp.
×
×
  • Create New...