Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't make come over and whoop your ass!!!! I hate to be proven wrong so here: Try to spot my swirl marks in these pics then! (I promise car was filthy in every one of these shots except the one on the driveway where you can see it has been washed). REMEMBER!!!!!! Car was 2 years old in these pics, never ever detailed ever and full of scratches, dings and swirl marks. No photoshopping and tell me doesn't she look clean? SEE! SEE?! I do not lie.

day.jpg

dyno.jpg

washed.jpg

BURROW.jpg

Na na na na nah!

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There should be a 56K WARNING on this thread.

swirls are microscopic scratches. The reason why theyshow up on dark coloured cars is because the sides of the scratches reflect light.

This is unoticable on light coloured cars because they reflect alot of the ligh themselves.

Swirl%20Mark.jpg

Roy is right. Having the right things can prevent swirl marks.

Have any of you tried this stuff??

autogeek_1772_16115586

I think the only way to get rid of them is if you buffed your car and used a medium cutting polish. I suppose brasso would work.

Also when you wash your car you shouldnt be rubbing in circles. You should be going the same way as the air travels over your car.

I just cut and polished my car on saturday... it took 5 hours and i didnt have time to do the wheels..

swirls are still there..

in pics my car looks awesome, no swirls. but in real life its a diff matter.

I think it depends alot on the quality of paint. My old car was mettalic black, i worked hard on it quite often, and there was no swirls. BUT then some drunk idiot crashed into me, and i had to get one side of the car resprayed. After that, one side had swirls, and the original paint didnt. so i guess the nissan factory paint isnt that swirl resistant.

Im with justin on the swirls issue, in pics usually u just cant see swirls.

I present to u two huge pics. sorry to all those 56k users :D

Both cars have LOTS of swirls. One black one red, u cant see swirls in either so :D

gtisdbig.jpg

noswirls.jpg

you bastards.

I *am* on 56k!

and Skyline_boy, in your second picture...there are no swirls.....but there *are* trees growing out of ur car :confused:

BUT....can anyone recommend a professional? You know, the sort of person I can abuse and sue if I'm not happy lol

lol that isnt my car, thats just the result of doing something properly. I dont like lexus that much.

Guide To Detailing Your Car 6.04MB

Another guide "BUFFING FOR BEGINNERS" - shows you what polishes to use, what pads to use, and how much cutting and heat they make. worth a read

Buffing for beginners

hmmm.. how much money is in this Car wash & detailing bussiness??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...