Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtst Cutting Out At 4000rpm

tomgtr

By tomgtr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

Hi smokem

He has assumed you are running stock turbo (and I am assuming you are using the factory ECU). It is mostly likely the ECU airflow cut you are experiencing. Aftermarket engine management or running lower boost (to reduce airflow) are the fixes.

It is harsh that people feel the need to call others idiots for not knowing everything but it is a frustration based on the lack of effort by people in searching through the forum for the answer first before starting another thread to answer the same tired old questions.

I hope there is some confirmation of what the issue was for the original poster when it is rectified or else this thread will have been for nothing.

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

Yes, my point is that without him saying he's running both aftermarket turbo and ECU, we can only assume he isn't. Therefor if the stock turbo survives running 15psi long enough, he'll be experiencing the ECU freaking from overboost (I think anything over 12psi with stock ECU makes it cry)

If he didn't have a semi-smartass response to the "being shot" comment, mentioning we didn't know anything about his engine it wouldnt matter...but maybe when he was typing it, he should have thought to tell us about his engine.

Either way, if you're running aftermarket gear, coils, plugs, or AFM

smokem31 Contributor

smokem31

Posted
Posted

my response was not semi-smart arseish.... im not an idiot, i was trying to help out another user on this thread with similar problems to me.

the reason for not posting my engine details were cos its not my thread, the problem we are trying to fix here is of the original poster, not mine. i was offering personal experince in hope of helping him.

i use the search function excessively, when i cant find the exact answer to my question, i will post.

if it is ECU airflow cut, is there any reason it would be happening below 12psi?

thanks

tomgtr Apprentice

tomgtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK.

yesterday I took the coils out and taped them up and the car ran great, revving to redline with only minor hesitation, for about 5 minutes until it started playing up again. Now it runs like crap and when i went to start it last night it wouldnt even idle properly for about 30 seconds then would only rev to about 3000 - 3500 rpm. 5 out of 6 coil packs had something rattling around inside them when i shook them? is that normal? Should I fork out the $400 for JJR coil packs or is there an alternative?

jjskyline79 Community Regular

jjskyline79

Posted
Posted (edited)

I think you just answered your own question

Yes is the simple answer

I would have factored in the cost of replacement coils when i bought my Skyline. Most are coming on to between 10 and 15 years old now so its about time regardless of mileage, sorry kilometers to think about changing them. There bound to have started to brake down from the heat at the very least.

Why was this not picked up on the test drive though??????

Other things that I replaced regardless when I bought mine were

Oil oil filter and spark plugs

AFM

02 Sensor

brake fluid and coolent

cam belt

and brake pads and disks

ALL of the above is the min and not really that expensive and really should be done anyway imo to give you peace of mind

If you think its expensive then maybe a Skyline is not the car for you.

Also cut out issues and rough running can also be coursed by a loom that runs under the the drivers side wheel arch plastic. The wires become corroded and split you might want to have a look at that too.

Edited by jjskyline79
  • 4 weeks later...
tomgtr Apprentice

tomgtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok, today i got my yellow jacket coils and put them in, I also got a front mount and made sure everything was tightened up tight. It still breaks down????

Ive noticed it will run good when not warmed right up, or on long highway drives in cold night, So temperture is definetely causing it.

What else couldd it possibly be, i checked the plugs and they looked fine but could they possibly look alright but be the problem?

I cant understand why a stock r33 with new coils and front mount can stuff up like this?

Anyone got any other ideas?

Rav3nNZ Enthusiast

Rav3nNZ

Posted
Posted
ok, today i got my yellow jacket coils and put them in, I also got a front mount and made sure everything was tightened up tight. It still breaks down????

Ive noticed it will run good when not warmed right up, or on long highway drives in cold night, So temperture is definetely causing it.

What else couldd it possibly be, i checked the plugs and they looked fine but could they possibly look alright but be the problem?

I cant understand why a stock r33 with new coils and front mount can stuff up like this?

Anyone got any other ideas?

You changed the coils without getting new plugs?

Personally considering this is the questioning area i would've got new everything, but each to there own i guess.

Get new plugs

  • 3 months later...
TRYNCY Contributor

TRYNCY

Posted
Posted (edited)
i have the same problem with this on my 33 also, i got some answers saying my boost is too high

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...98#entry5407398

thats my topic on my turbo lagg

Edited by TRYNCY
Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted
could it be boost cut??

my car did it when I first got it, might wanna try a Fuel cut defender ( cheap as from any import wreckers)

band aid fix, and it probably wont fix your problem. Get the car properly tuned by remapping the ECU or a nistune. Fairly cheap and will see great results.

Do it once and do it properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...