Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 200
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Not sure what Ev is either, but on my Cannon (unsure about Nikons) Tv is Time Variable, meaning you can put it on a tripod and use a longer exposure. Also, try adjusting the white balance to get the colours right.

Btw, your car looks great now. Maybe some clear indicators and some work Meisters would look AWESOME on that thing! Possibly a front mount as well :)

not a huge fan of the clear indicators, so i went with a light shade of VHT night shades over the orange ones, i love muh rims :( and the front mount will come when i supercharge her lol

Looks like you shot in Auto mode as well, you need to shoot in M (manual) mode and mess around with your EV and Aperture. There are some nice guides here on the forums in this section. As well, you should never let your camera get to 1600 ISO unless it is something you just can not capture any other way. Get grain real bad at those levels.

Agreed - don't be scared of manual.

Put it in manual and have a play around! (try focusing on the part of the car that is closest)

Try this as a starting point maybe

aperture - f/8

exposure - 10secs

sensor - ISO 100

then adjust exposure up and down as you need to.

if its too bright that's easy just make exposure shorter.

if its too dark make it longer.

if you get to 30secs and don't want to use bulb and its still too dark

open lens a more (will loose DoF though) eg f/8, f/5.6, f/4 etc

if you cant get enough light when lens is wide open(ie f/2.8) or you dont want to lose any more DoF

then start bumping up ISO one step at a time

eg ISO200 ISO400 etc

Take Zenon's advice. Try to keep your camera on manual mode for a few weeks and force yourself to get used to it. After a little while things make sense and you find out it wasn't as daunting as first thought. Use your light meter to tell you if your close to the right level for exposure. Once you've found the levels you want go crazy making different adjustments to see what effects you get.

Your pics are always framed really nicely. You'll have it all worked out in no time :D

What camera are you using?

Agreed - don't be scared of manual.

Put it in manual and have a play around! (try focusing on the part of the car that is closest)

Try this as a starting point maybe

aperture - f/8

exposure - 10secs

sensor - ISO 100

then adjust exposure up and down as you need to.

if its too bright that's easy just make exposure shorter.

if its too dark make it longer.

if you get to 30secs and don't want to use bulb and its still too dark

open lens a more (will loose DoF though) eg f/8, f/5.6, f/4 etc

if you cant get enough light when lens is wide open(ie f/2.8) or you dont want to lose any more DoF

then start bumping up ISO one step at a time

eg ISO200 ISO400 etc

Same and thanks. But on another note you can use the Exposure and flash compensation that is built into most cameras. Look for that before you go and lose your DoF. Take that advise from me and Zennon and run, it will help you out with night shots a whole lot. Also, you might not notice Noise with your camera on ISO levels that are high but once you start doing post processing on them you will bring it all to life. ISO is a trained camera man/woman's last fall upon.

You can adjust so much more... white levels, exposure, aperture, exposure comp, flash comp. The last thing you fall on is ISO in my book. =) Hope that helps

I normally only use Manual mode at night time. For normal everyday stuff I use Aperture Priority mode :D

Same. The camera can judge light variables very well during the day but aperture is DoF and is user based opinion per shot. So you should look at that, and again look on the stickies etc, there are some good tutorials.

Edited by AKW
The camera can judge light variables very well during the day but aperture is DoF and is user based opinion per shot. So you should look at that, and again look on the stickies etc, there are some good tutorials.

This is not entirely true. Most cameras struggle to judge light the built in light meter is only guide and shouldn’t be relied on the histogram is much more accurate.

This is why even in the basic function such at TV and AV you still have control over exposure compensation,

Common problem is when there is too much white in the frame such as wedding you may need to dial in from 1 to 2 stops of overexposure so the wedding dress comes out white and not a dull grey,

Also the reason we need or should use some kind of ND grad filter to stop our sky from blowing out leaving us with a white sky.

And yes aperture has a part to play with DOF but I wouldn’t say aperture is DOF as it has a lot of variables such as subject to background distance and also the lens zoom. For e.g. the same shot taken with a 200mm @ 2.8 with have a much shallower DOF than a 50mm @ 2.8 as long as the subject to background distance stays the same for both shots.

AKW you know white balance doesn't really matter when shooting raw right?

And yes aperture has a part to play with DOF but I wouldn’t say aperture is DOF as it has a lot of variables such as subject to background distance and also the lens zoom. For e.g. the same shot taken with a 200mm @ 2.8 with have a much shallower DOF than a 50mm @ 2.8 as long as the subject to background distance stays the same for both shots.

"A part to play" lol

For a given lens (since you will be taking the shot with a given lens),

and at a given zoom (since you would have framed your shot)

aperture will have a direct affect on how much of the car is in focus

Not sure why you are trying to play down how much aperture affects Depth of Field...

all that fluff about different lenses having different DoF is true but why try and confuse the girl?

(And yeah having the background further away will make it look blurrier - the futher you are away from the DOF the more OOF it will be - but its still the aperture that controls how big the DOF is!)

"A part to play" lol

For a given lens (since you will be taking the shot with a given lens),

and at a given zoom (since you would have framed your shot)

aperture will have a direct affect on how much of the car is in focus

Not sure why you are trying to play down how much aperture affects Depth of Field...

all that fluff about different lenses having different DoF is true but why try and confuse the girl?

(And yeah having the background further away will make it look blurrier - the futher you are away from the DOF the more OOF it will be - but its still the aperture that controls how big the DOF is!)

By no means am i trying to play down that Apeture affects DOF im stating that there is more factors that affect DOF.

Even at F11 you can get a pretty shellow dof depending on where your are in relation to the subject and where the subject is in relation to the background.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field

"The DOF is determined by the camera-to-subject distance, the lens focal length, the lens f-number, and the format size or circle of confusion criterion."

By no means am i trying to play down that Apeture affects DOF im stating that there is more factors that affect DOF.

Even at F11 you can get a pretty shellow dof depending on where your are in relation to the subject and where the subject is in relation to the background.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field

"The DOF is determined by the camera-to-subject distance, the lens focal length, the lens f-number, and the format size or circle of confusion criterion."

Camera-to-subject distance affects DoF, but do you change you change your camera-to-subject distance so you can get a different DoF? Not me.

Focal length affects DoF, but do you change you change your Focal length so you can get a different DoF? Not me.

Format size affects DoF, but do you change you change your Format size so you can get a different DoF? Not me!!!

Circle of confusion affects DoF, but do you change you change your circle of confusion so you can get a different DoF? Not me!

Aperture affects DoF, but do you change you change your aperture so you can get a different DoF? YES YES YES

Have you EVER changed ANY of those factors (except for aperture) just so you could change the DoF?

Camera-to-subject distance affects DoF, but do you change you change your camera-to-subject distance so you can get a different DoF? Not me.

Focal length affects DoF, but do you change you change your Focal length so you can get a different DoF? Not me.

Format size affects DoF, but do you change you change your Format size so you can get a different DoF? Not me!!!

Circle of confusion affects DoF, but do you change you change your circle of confusion so you can get a different DoF? Not me!

Aperture affects DoF, but do you change you change your aperture so you can get a different DoF? YES YES YES

Have you EVER changed ANY of those factors (except for aperture) just so you could change the DoF?

YES I DO !!

When I shoot out door portraiture with clients that I want to stand out from the surrounding by producing a shallow DOF I will almost always be shooting with a focal length of 135-200mm being as close as I can to the subject to get the desired composition as well as positioning the client away from the background I wish to Blur out as well as setting my aperture anywhere between f2.8 – f8.

The point is all of these things equate to a shallow or deep depth of field I’m not saying your incorrect so don’t stress all I’m saying is there is more factors to consider.

So yes in the very Basic form of photography aperture helps control DOF but I don’t agree the statement that “Aperture is DOF”

But like you said you don’t do any of those things apart from changing aperture hey that’s fine and that’s how you work we all have different ideas when it comes to photography

YES I DO !!

When I shoot out door portraiture with clients that I want to stand out from the surrounding by producing a shallow DOF I will almost always be shooting with a focal length of 135-200mm being as close as I can to the subject to get the desired composition as well as positioning the client away from the background I wish to Blur out as well as setting my aperture anywhere between f2.8 – f8.

The point is all of these things equate to a shallow or deep depth of field I’m not saying your incorrect so don’t stress all I’m saying is there is more factors to consider.

So yes in the very Basic form of photography aperture helps control DOF but I don’t agree the statement that “Aperture is DOF”

But like you said you don’t do any of those things apart from changing aperture hey that’s fine and that’s how you work we all have different ideas when it comes to photography

I never said "Aperture is DOF" did I?

On a friendlier note - you ever tried a Brenizer pano?

Checkout this DoF!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zennondamant/...896192/sizes/o/

ahhh talking about pano's.

This isn't a pano, just a pic I cropped (obviously).

DSC_5329%20copy.jpg

Like it? Hate it? What could make it better? What works for it?

I've tried to do a couple of these and I usually end up with a pic I don't mind... but sort of lacks something... Ideas photo gurus?

I'll post up the original later on at lunch, or when i'm back home.

this pic was taken at the historic race meet held at eastern creek last week.

you're looking at alan jone's old f1 car from the early 80's. (not sure of what year)

cheers :rofl:

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. Was just wondering if you were having a small stroke or if there was some slur/gaf/inside joke that I wasn't aware of.
    • That was a fark up, it's Salamanca Place I was thinking of. And now I'm curious as to what potential slur/gaf I have caused with Salamander Road, ha ha!
    • Actually everyone on the roads was really well behaved. The only person that did any minor tailgating was a local hoon in a Turbo Focus. Unfortunately we weren't going the same way so there was no grand initial D touge battle. Lots of people pulled over and let me through. The amount of "Hey man nice car, omg skyline, nice 34 man woo" was suprising. Like really suprising. Like almost annoying. My partner was obviously surprised, she'd never seen anyone in the real world point out the car/like the car/want to chat about the car before, so to have like 3 people per day mention it was notable, I could finally say SEE? SOMEONE THINKS THEY'RE COOL. Everyone was also pretty suprised about the weather. Every day was dry and about ~13-14C. Mount Wellington had a sign that said they close the gates at 9pm and I was heading up there at about ~7:30. It was VERY apparent that conditions were getting significantly worse by the minute on the way up and down. The road on the mountain was terrible though, it's no driving road. I have various suspension related questions now. Luckily it was only about 20 minutes from where we were staying to the top of the mountain as said Google maps. We only had the 2 nights in Hobart. We went to the Farm Gate Market though which was really good - And went down to the Hastings Thermal springs/caves down there during the day. I'd definitely be up for going back again, so luckily there's a few more sights yet to see. Didn't get to do the west coast/queenstown/cradle mountain so this was supposed to be a 'scouting' trip anyway of sorts if I were to one day do/take part in/organize a more car-focused trip. As for the boat, it wasn't bad. Well it was bad, but not in the way you're thinking. We did the night trip which leaves at 6:45 (though you have to be there ~2 hours earlier) and arrives the next morning at about 6am. There is nothing to do on the ship. If you plan accordingly and bring a book/tablet/show to watch/charger you can just chill out, take some Travacalm and just sleep through it. The food there is an extremely basic buffet that costs $32 a plate, or $14 for a $3 pizza. The way back we had a travel kettle and a few different types of cup noodles and made our own tea/coffee in the room. This was a far superior way to do it. At the very least book one of the rooms with beds. I guess as we were in the off season we didn't have room mates. You get an option for rooms with 4 beds (2x bunks) or a room with just the two bottom beds. There's also some option for a deluxe queen bed but it's much pricer. We've been on sleeper trains in Asia before so we figured this is similar (and it was)
    • You just gotta be really, really, really clear and decisive with what you want your end product to be. 99% of people who want this conversion aren't "I want to run a 295 front tyre!" so they don't really need the widebody. They just want the OEM body to look a little less dumpy, so bonnet, bar, skirts job done with some camber, stretch, slam. It's when you want that, but then decide to pivot later you get big problems. See also if you're willing to get an all in one fibreglass bar, and you're willing to accept fibreglass problems like cracking the entire item on a driveway, instead of just a piece attached to the bottom, etc etc etc. Decide this all before buyin'.
×
×
  • Create New...