Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ill have roughly 35k to buy another car. I was just wondering what your opinions are on purchasing either a 33 GTR or and 34 GTT.

i currently have a s2 r33 slighly modified. i would assume that if i but a GTR i wouldnt need to modify it, whereas buying a 34gtt would be pretty stock. plus the disadvantage of not going sideways or drifting in the gtr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31522-33gtr-or-34gtt/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Tough call that one. Everyones got their preferences and as far as looks are concerned that's something you've got to decide for yourself.

On "paper" both the R33 GTR and the R34 GTT put out the same power, so there's not a lot between them in the power department.

Most people are gonna say go the GTR because, well - it's a GTR! :(

With the GTR's you'll get what is considered a stronger engine, plus the ATTESSA torque split system. You'll also be getting an older car, with higher KM's and an older design. Personally I like the feel of the R34's - they seem much smaller than the R33 series, particularly inside. R34's have the more modern interior and the updated RB engines with improved torque output over earlier RB's. Handling, well my R34 handles pretty well but I've never driven an R33 GTR at speed so I can't really compare. Both cars have HICAS, LSD's, sway bars etc and both have 17inch alloys as standard.

If drifting is what you're wanting to do, then perhaps the RWD GTT would be the wiser choice.

Probably the best advice is to test drive both and see what you think! :)

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31522-33gtr-or-34gtt/#findComment-636377
Share on other sites

Go the GTR, GTR's hold their value, $35k will get you a good one. Youll be able to resell it for what you paid for it. Plus GTRs are the ducks guts of all cars and what all GTS, GTT etc drivers dream of.

Plus power... stock GTR eats GTT's.

Plus Grip

Plus the 11 inches of front and rear rubber (265/40/17 fit on stock wheels)

Plus watching the tail hang out at will on a skid pan and then gathering it in by pressing the loud pedal

Plus street cred as in.. "What kinda *line* ya got" "OHHH so you dont have a GTR"

(Flame proof suit on)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31522-33gtr-or-34gtt/#findComment-636389
Share on other sites

^^^^^ hehe I knew you guys would say that ^^^^^

:(:)

They're right though. The GTR has the street cred and the instant respect that the GTT lacks. Re-sale is always going to be better for the GTR. The GTT is an absolutely fantastic car in every way, but the GTR is better. I'd be happy to own either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31522-33gtr-or-34gtt/#findComment-636413
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...