Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was over at a mates place this week and we were just having a look around his shed.....(where my motor is being stored atm)....and his son has had some mates around so they have taken the cover off...and wasps have built some pretty little mud castles in the intake ports.....(motor has no manifolds on it)

What can i do...

Head off job? or....

(deep sigh)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/
Share on other sites

Turnthe engine on its side on an engine stand, one cylinder at a time turn engine until cylinder is in compression stroke (vavles closed) break away nests, air blower, hope for the best.

One of those fibre optic cameras would handy be handy aswel

Edited by aleks
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5165491
Share on other sites

Leave wasps alone. They get very narky when you disturb their nest or spray insect spray in their general direction - particularly European wasps. Unlike bees, they can sting multiple times (they don't lose their stinger).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5165499
Share on other sites

If they have gone up the exhaust they may have nested inside the cylinder, the one with the valve open. I worked on a pump motor from a farm with wasps nesting like this and it wasn't worth rebuilding. The clay gets into everything, little buggers.

Definitely need to pull the head off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5165767
Share on other sites

Ok i went to the head shop today (super flow heads), I was told if i can give it to him with no cams in it. Then to have it acid dipped, new seals, and machined, would cost me between 300-400 dollars.

Does this seem about right?

So this leads me to this, would i have much problems pulling out the cams, and then re installing them again (or maybe aftermarket 256's or something...).

I can get a genuine nissan vrs kit, for approx. $380, so i would provide the seals, (this should bring the cost down a tad).

And would i really need to machining?

I have no idea tbh when it comes to doing any work on the heads this will be the first time i've taken one off and put it back on myself so yeah...dun wanna mess it up..

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5166809
Share on other sites

Price sounds good.

And the valve stem seals are worth nothing really, so won't be a huge saving there.

I payed $550 for mine with a crack and pressure test.

The machine they normally do is just a tidy up (skim the surface and enough to make sure valves seal properly)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5166883
Share on other sites

May as well keep it all in this thread, down the track the motor will probably have between 15-18psi getting pushed around it, would you guys reccomend using a metal head gasket? I had a quick look around the site, and from what i can tell the cometic head gaskets and the such wont sell properly unless i have both surfaces perfectly true...would this be the case if i wanted to run any sort of metal gasket, so machining would be in order for both the head and block?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5167119
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I think he was only proposing to use the wire, not the sender. Simply because it runs from the right place to the right place. Personally, I wouldn't hack up the factory wiring like that. I'd just lay in the Defi loom.
    • From memory it wasn't too hard to simply see which wire ran where when you plug that in. Unfortunately also from memory the OEM sender does not use the same configuration 99.9% of gauges run. So in other words if you connect the signal wire that was running to the OEM gauge to your DEFI gauge you might find your oil reads at 200C or some other incorrect value. I remember having the same line of thought and then running new wires/senders to match the gauges I have. The pinout is available in the R34 workshop manual.
    • Does anyone on here know which wire on the GTT triple gauge pod harness is for the oil temp gauge? my sensor works fine but I upgraded the gauges to DEFI advance. And if I can simply piggyback off the oem oil temp wire to the Defi oil temp sensor wire that would make life so much easier. 
    • Even face her a wash now that’s it worth more than my house
    • This was what I was invisioning, or Pete cutting a beer can up and hose clamping it around the catch can! Ha ha ha
×
×
  • Create New...