Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im going to be upgrading my ruined standard shocks + kingsprings (worse combination ever, aweful compared to standard)

Now I was considering getting the bilstein sydney kid recommends in his old group buy along with springs and the sway bars, or I was considering tein super street coilovers with 225lb (4kg) springs all around.

What setup is going to be better for a daily driven R32 skyline that will see the track every few months.

It has some serious power ~240rwkw so I need something that will squat a little and hookup but also that isn't sloppy like the standard springs nor so stiff the rear end just skates all over the road.

What setup do you guys think will handle better for my situation? I am looking at spending around the $1000 mark and not much more, both of these kits are around this price, the teins being about $900 and the bilstein combo roughly $1200.

Thanks in advance. = )

Teins are soooo silky for daily driving, a necessity for daily driving on crappy Sydney roads... I am yet to use them on any track, so have them on the softest setting and they are without exageration smoother on the road than my mates M3. Probably not the best for handling, but that might change with the harder settings.

They don't lower that much either if that is a priority.

I have also had HKS Pro Performer which are smooth, handle well, but unreliable, and GReddy Type S - awesome compromise!

Not sure how you going to get a bilstein setup for $1k

I got mine from ERD which is around the $1400 mark. Same setup as sydneykid's (but progressive kingsprings instead of linear whiteline springs)

http://erd.com.au/index.php?option=com_seb...=store&ck=2

Email ERD and ask them what would suit you.

Yeah bilstein setup is looking more like $1400 for the lot including camber kit, sway bars etc however after talking to a few people I am convinced it is the better setup.

I am going to go for a drive in a car with the sydneykid setup in it and compare it to my mates teins. It is a daily driver so I would prefer a soft setup with rollbars to counter the roll instead of stiff springs.

you are better off with the bilstein setup. Its designed for australian roads and its nice to drive on roads. Once you load up the springs by pushing the car, the springs stiffen up and you get some awesome handling.

In the end, shocks/springs only make up one bit of the suspension. Swaybars do a lot in terms of handling.

Teins are soooo silky for daily driving, a necessity for daily driving on crappy Sydney roads... I am yet to use them on any track, so have them on the softest setting and

Mine arnt......I would definatly go the bilsteins over the tiens any day.

the high speed damping in the Tiens is crap...way to crashy over cats eyes etc and they are too soft in the front spring rate for track work imo.

btw this is for a 33 gtst

I havent driven a 32 with them so I cant comment on that

I've got Gary's bilsteins in both my stagea and 32 gtr race car. Excellent mono shock damper, way better than anything else in the up to 1500 price range. Obviously there are better shocks again in the $4k+ range.

Hey boys. Went for a spin in an R32 with the sydney kid setup tonight, was a very very nice ride, surprised by how soft and cruisy it felt over bumps and on the street. The turn in and handling was very impressive as well, would have to say it definitely rivals the teins and with a better ride.

Now I have run into an issue, the part numbers for the bilstein shocks and the dampening rates are not to be found anywhere in the old group buy thread, and it appears sydney kid is no longer active on these forums. Would anyone here know these values or where I could find them out? Same goes for the spring rates etc, I can most likely get these fairly quickly but if I have anyone here to double check them with that would be tops.

Would very much appreciate it.

Cheers guys :laugh:

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...