Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ! i am thinking of doing stage 1 performance upgrades for my GTR34 V Spec

Current mods on the car is only a Ganador Titanium Exhaust

i was thinking of geting a apexi power fc and hks ev5 boost controller

roughly how much will this make at the wheels ?

a nice Apexi panel air filter for now

1 bar boost

bp6re copper sparkplugs, pre-gapped to 0.8mm, v-groove, $20 for the 6

perhaps splitfire coilpacks but see how your stock units go for now.

best of luck

yes the panel filter will drop right in.

here is a Greddy one for $80

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Greddy-Trust-Airinx...=item414dd9ec5a

injectors for under $600 delivered

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Supr...=item27b0a5158f

coilpacks for $400

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Performance-Coil-Pa...=item19b8125d38

Im using siemens 550cc injectors for my rb26 track car, got them from ebay usa new for $363 delivered.

z32 new air flow metres, $170ea delivered

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VG30dett-z3...sQ5fAccessories

Up to you if you drop in larger injectors or not, but IMO Id keep the intercooler standard for now, air box standard just with a topbrand panel filter,

Sparkplugs I mentioned are good for 300rkwk so definately grab them, cheap but perfect. NGK BP6RE .8mm copper

Power-fc tune will cost around $450, and your stock airflow metres (and coilpacks) should be fine up to around 280rwkw

nope what Ive listed for you above WILL be fine for R34 GTR

panel filter, sparkplugs, injectors, afm's,

coilpacks yes - r34 gtr is same as r33 gtst, see here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YELLOW-JACK...eQ5fCarQ5fParts

you'll be right ! I got a set of yellowjackets for my r32 rb26 for $148 delivered !

if you do injectors, coil packs (if needed), air filter, new spark plugs, and z32 air flow metres, then tune the power FC for 1bar you should be right on 250kw

however new injectors, air flow metres and coil packs most likely are not needed for Stage-1 tune

all the best

apexi power fc and d jetro any huge differences ?

PFC 'L-Jetro' retains AFM and will accept range of AFMs such as Standard to Z32 units.

PFC 'D-Jetro' deletes AFM and use 2 MAP sensors on the inlet plenum - plenum will have to be removed and 2 holes drilled for the sensors to slot in.

For your power goal, get L-Jetro as it's pure 'plug and play' no piss farting around - you can even install it yourself in 30 minutes. There are couple of units up for grabs on FS section of this forum.

D-Jetro unit is $1,900 to purchase then you'll need to pay for plenum removal and drilling so that is $$$ job. Should you crave for more power when standard AFM decide to maxed out, just buy a pair of Nismo AFMs for $900 and it's 'plug and play' so saving lot of money in labour.

250kw at wheels, EBC isn't needed, just take out the boost restrictor off (will give you the boost pressure rated on actuators which is 14psi - located on drivers side of the engine bay, next to fuse box), decent quality panel air filter, a pair of cam gears and PFC + Tune (seeing you've already got exhaust).

Preventive maintaince such as coilpacks is a good idea (have read that few 34's have coilpacks failed), I wouldn't know if worth getting yellowjacket thing over decent brand as Splitfires.

Hope it helps with your desire for more power.

Talk to your tuner and most will tell you just go with PFC as the dejetro will take longer to tune and afm will generally give you better fuel consumption (dont know the details but 3 tuners told me this). But dejetro will be the way to go with you're after high power (in which AFM will be maxed out).

300awhp isnt 250awkw. It'll be close to 220awkw. 1 of my mates just tuned his 33GTR to 0.9bar and got slightly higher than 220awkw. In any case, you will see more than power figures when your car is professionally tuned by someone reputable (response being the main).

It is a R34 GTR - stay away from ebay crap please.

As for further upgrade forget coil packs, forget injectors.

Before anything else you need:

PowerFC/Tune

Cam Gears

Tot: $2,000

Then save up for:

Turbos

Injectors

Decent front pipes (2.5" minimum) & decent Hi-Flow cat

Nismo AFM's

Tot: $4,500-$5,000

Continued OT: Someone asked me that in my FS thread JDM..... co-incidence or is it some inside joke of some description??

Inside joke? I don't understand what you are talking about really. I asked because I saw a GTR for sale with ganador titanium exhaust from Camperdown, that's why.

Hi the car might of been at a dealer at camperdown as i was told by the previous owner it was bought from a dealer in the city. Its a midnight purple the previous owner sold it to me the previous owner was from blacktown

- With cam gears are the tomei ones good ? i was looking at

Tomei Cams

Edited by Tenkin

Cam gears are cam gears really mate. $470 is probably double what you need to spend.

Anything will suffice as they are just a gear with 3 bolts :D

Some of the SAU traders have some for around the $250 marker i think, get those.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...