Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i h8 driving in the rain

high every body. im starting this thread to see how other ppl handle driving in the rain (eg driving style, routines, tire pressure, different tires, anything) and if they loose traction and what to avoid on the road.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316557-how-u-drive-in-the-rain/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I had a pretty scary experience sliding out of a roundabout just last week actually, thankfully managed to regain traction... Now I just try to keep the revs low and drive slowly and keep a big distance from the car in front. Also I don't touch the throttle when turning, learnt my lesson :D

well 4 me i use the snow button (auto skyline) if it has just rained and i have stopped at lights or any were and am turning i will keep it in 2nd till i have stopped turning. leaving longer braking distances, take of slower and take corners slower. i also avoid all lines and arrows on the road and when i stop at lights i keep my tires of the middle of the lain as thats were all the oil is.

i will still loose traction sometimes, especially at take of and i have to avoid stops on hills especially when i have to turn left or right. maybe its time to invest in some all yr round tires instead of my maxxis witch seem to never loose tread witch leads me to believe they not to good 4 gripping the road

You guys must have shocking tyres...... I've got toyo's and no slide whatsoever. Have to be a complete dickhead to lose traction...

lol idiot James! You've got AWD and 240ish mm of tyres all round. Spare a though for the rubber challenged brethren who are stuck driving their mum's car while they install a new turbo...

N16 pulsar understeer yay!

I think OP is concerned about RWD mostly. I've got 255 Federal SS595 on the rear, very easy to slide... looking at getting wider wheels soon though, gonna try some Kumhos I've heard good things about them :D

From a driver training course I did: pump your tires up. The intuitive thing would be to let your tires down right? Not so, because when you let your tires down, the centre of the tire makes less contact with the road. Even though it looks like you've got a fatter profile and its harder to steer so it feels like you're glued to the road - the middle bit that you can't see flexes upwards. It's only harder to steer because you're fighting the tire deforming due to lack of pressure. This also makes it more likely that you'll have a blowout - the tire wall is contantly flexing as it goes round and round so it heats up and wears faster.

Tires are actually a form of pump, that's why you have ridges in them - to pump the water away from the contact surface and out the back. Good contact = good tires. Letting your tires down in sand works because you're on a loose surface that changes its profile when you roll over it - so you want your tire to deform with the surface. Roads are hard so you don't want deformation :D.

Related: Manufacturers recommended pressures on your placard are actually a trade-off between ride-comfort and safety. If the placard says 32, go 36 or even a bit more. Uneven wear (when the centre of the tread wears faster than the outside) only really happens when you pump up to ludicrous pressures. Also, if you're running low-profiles, ignore the placard completely and run a few PSI over the manufacturer's recommended pressure.

I shit you not, since I started taking this advice - you have to be REALLY trying to break traction, it won't "just happen" and my tires are lasting a LOT longer.

If you are losing traction in the rain, you are either doing it on purpose or you are a really f**king shit driver. Sell your car.

haha good call.

But seriously just keep your distance and dont go around corners at 4000rpm and you'll be right. Oh and get yourself some decent tyres if you haven't already.

Edited by Dani Boi

Oh and about losing traction? Let's assume you haven't just broken traction by being a tool and you've actually swerved to miss something in the rain and lost it. My good friend Mr Keets once told me after a bingle when I was on my Ps.

"In a spin? Both feet in!"

Edited by diamondjo
haha good call.

But seriously just keep your distance and dont go around corners at 4000rpm and you'll be right. Oh and get yourself some decent tyres if you haven't already.

I don't go anywhere near 4,000 rpm & the back end still seem a bit twitchy in the rain.

Even take off in a straight line, I pretty much need to keep throttle <30% otherwise there is a good chance the rear end will start twitching...

My tyres seem to be hopeless in the wet.

So now I drive super granny style in the wet, which means 0 to 20km/h acceleration takes close to 5 seconds or so.

Edited by Mayuri Krab

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...