Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-31999-1271757743_thumb.jpgpost-31999-1271757769_thumb.jpg

Admin - please move to appropriate section if causing disruption but need some quick answers :)

Hi Guys,

i am no expert when it comes to this and i have no idea what i am even saying :)

i am purely replicating what a reputable gearbox place in sydney has told me. Apparently the cluster shaft has sheared off the end and it needs replacing as per pics.

I have contacted Auto gallery Japan with great frustration because of my lack of japanese and resources i have available. But they do not have this part available off the shelf and would need to make it up and can not give me a esitmated timeframe as to when it could be made by. Hence my question of getting this made locally. A engineer that the gearbox place uses was approached and got back to me with a quote in excess of $2000. I personally found this to be a bit rich and would like some opinions to this or advice as to some possible engineers i can deal with.

Just a debrief - car makes 340awkw and shifted nice with this box from 1st to 4th. However coming down the straight going into fifth at EC would always crunch. Got gearbox fully serviced and replaced 5th gear syncro. Upon shifting into 5th for the first time - it was like half a crunch. On lap 6 - 7Krpm and a slighty quicker shift saw the end of 5th gear and reverse.

All input would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.ag-y.com/690mission.htm

Cheers

Steve

You could try Albins down here in Ballarat. Seeing they make gear boxes and custom parts. They should be able to knock one up OK for a price.

http://www.albinsgear.com.au/index.php

And I'm tempted to say put a standard box in it at that power level.

Agreed - most of the quick tracked vic GTR's with that sort of power level (and more!) use the std box.

Good luck with the hunt!

You could try Albins down here in Ballarat. Seeing they make gear boxes and custom parts. They should be able to knock one up OK for a price.

http://www.albinsgear.com.au/index.php

Shot them a email today - was quite helpful but cost wise was alot more expensive then what i have been quoted. :(

You could also try PAR

http://www.par-engineering.com/

Have not heard much good things about them - but will speak to them

Also i am currently running a standard box with no problems whatsoever, but having the luxury of the closer gear ratio and piece of mind that from 1st-4th gear i could throw it in. Its definately something i would like to get back into the car. From the reviews i hear and have looked at the Japs rate this box highly :(

Cheers

Steve

Ok, I know nothing about this box you have, so can't offer any more info for you sorry (pretty sure I met you at Eastern Creek a couple of wednesdays ago?).

I do know someone who's just removed a perfectly working and quite fresh PPG dog box if you change your mind.

Ok, I know nothing about this box you have, so can't offer any more info for you sorry (pretty sure I met you at Eastern Creek a couple of wednesdays ago?).

I do know someone who's just removed a perfectly working and quite fresh PPG dog box if you change your mind.

Hey there,

are you the owner of the Envy imports 34? or the one behind it? from memory - either or, both sweet rides :D

is the PPG box helical or straight cut? if you could pm me the asking price this would be great!

Cheers

Steve

  • 3 years later...

attachicon.gif001.JPGattachicon.gif002.JPG

Admin - please move to appropriate section if causing disruption but need some quick answers :cheers:

Hi Guys,

i am no expert when it comes to this and i have no idea what i am even saying tongue.gif

i am purely replicating what a reputable gearbox place in sydney has told me. Apparently the cluster shaft has sheared off the end and it needs replacing as per pics.

I have contacted Auto gallery Japan with great frustration because of my lack of japanese and resources i have available. But they do not have this part available off the shelf and would need to make it up and can not give me a esitmated timeframe as to when it could be made by. Hence my question of getting this made locally. A engineer that the gearbox place uses was approached and got back to me with a quote in excess of $2000. I personally found this to be a bit rich and would like some opinions to this or advice as to some possible engineers i can deal with.

Just a debrief - car makes 340awkw and shifted nice with this box from 1st to 4th. However coming down the straight going into fifth at EC would always crunch. Got gearbox fully serviced and replaced 5th gear syncro. Upon shifting into 5th for the first time - it was like half a crunch. On lap 6 - 7Krpm and a slighty quicker shift saw the end of 5th gear and reverse.

All input would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.ag-y.com/690mission.htm

Cheers

Steve

Mate , just wanted to know if you ever got the auto gallery 690 box fixed ..Was looking into options other than just the OS or PPG option.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...