Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 191
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Wow some big discrepancies there...!

4.6 with 170rwkw (albeit in a 32 which is lighter) and only 5.75 with 265rwkw in a 34?

A much heavier less powerful XR6T can easily do low 5s... I guess it all comes down to wheelspin in the skyline then...?

What is the best way to get a 34 to hold traction? Suspension, tyres?

I think i'll be running my rears down around 20psi when i get it back...

Soft spring rates, pineapples bushes set to maximum squat, zero negative camber or 1 degree postive camber if the car squats a lot (as it squats it will gain negative camber which in turn will return it to around zero), good tyres, not to low. With a setup like this (probably similar to what Paul had) is your best way for a good time. The problem is most of us know this, but don't actually do it and have low cars with aftermarket coilovers and average tyres :)

Well I can get my tyres 0 - 100 in around 2 seconds... Unfortunately the car itself takes a fair bit longer...

Even if I pull a perfect launch, I have a major issue of grabbing second and the car fries both rears... That's with 255 wide rears... And it also does it on semis...

an extra diff :)

Sorry, had to say it :(

I was actually planning on selling the GTT and getting a 34 GTR - was for sale for several months but there was no way I was getting what I wanted for it... and the changeover price for a good low km fairly stock 34 GTR was going to be well over 30 grand...

Got advised by many people that it wasn't worth it, and that I wouldn't be satisfied with a stock GTR anyway. Then to modify it would cost twice as much as the GTT etc etc...

Decided to stick with the GTT and do turbo etc so i guess i'll see what it's like at the end of the week when i get it back! Not like I'll probably ever have the chance to drive a 34 GTR to compare so I guess it probably doesn't matter!

I went the larger .82 housing on the 3070 hoping the boost response would be a bit more linear, and less likely to fry the tyres when it came on compared to the .63... Hopefully I was right... :P

I was actually planning on selling the GTT and getting a 34 GTR - was for sale for several months but there was no way I was getting what I wanted for it... and the changeover price for a good low km fairly stock 34 GTR was going to be well over 30 grand...

Got advised by many people that it wasn't worth it, and that I wouldn't be satisfied with a stock GTR anyway. Then to modify it would cost twice as much as the GTT etc etc...

Decided to stick with the GTT and do turbo etc so i guess i'll see what it's like at the end of the week when i get it back! Not like I'll probably ever have the chance to drive a 34 GTR to compare so I guess it probably doesn't matter!

I went the larger .82 housing on the 3070 hoping the boost response would be a bit more linear, and less likely to fry the tyres when it came on compared to the .63... Hopefully I was right... :)

I have a 32 GT-R and i love it to bits but some things you can only really enjoy in RWD :P

Plus the 34Gtt's are pretty sexy there are a few getting round here in bris that a sick !

Edited by Nee-san
Wow some big discrepancies there...!

4.6 with 170rwkw (albeit in a 32 which is lighter) and only 5.75 with 265rwkw in a 34?

A much heavier less powerful XR6T can easily do low 5s... I guess it all comes down to wheelspin in the skyline then...?

What is the best way to get a 34 to hold traction? Suspension, tyres?

I think i'll be running my rears down around 20psi when i get it back...

Those claimed 0-100 times for the xr6t would have been done by professionals who know how to launch that particular car when it was in testing, not your average joe. They also have a launch control system in them as well...

Yes, tyres and suspension play a fairly big role when it comes to launching, but it mainly comes down to the driver.

I was actually planning on selling the GTT and getting a 34 GTR - was for sale for several months but there was no way I was getting what I wanted for it... and the changeover price for a good low km fairly stock 34 GTR was going to be well over 30 grand...

Got advised by many people that it wasn't worth it, and that I wouldn't be satisfied with a stock GTR anyway. Then to modify it would cost twice as much as the GTT etc etc...

Decided to stick with the GTT and do turbo etc so i guess i'll see what it's like at the end of the week when i get it back! Not like I'll probably ever have the chance to drive a 34 GTR to compare so I guess it probably doesn't matter!

I went the larger .82 housing on the 3070 hoping the boost response would be a bit more linear, and less likely to fry the tyres when it came on compared to the .63... Hopefully I was right... :)

You did choose right, the power is quite linear, when i had my 3076 it was a lot easier to get the power down than when i had a apexi ax53b70 p25 because the apexi was so responsive it would just fry tyres the second you applied throttle

The best i have done so far is a around 5.8, thats with 236 rwkw's and zero traction. The main prob is traction. I have been beating by a mates standard wrx because i had no traction through 1st or 2nd. I know have semi slicks but haven't tried them out yet.

I'd say mid 4's if you are running decent rubber.

if you are struggling for traction consider

wider tyres - as wide as you can run cost effectively without scrubbing

better tyres - cost = more grip usually, pzeros are ace, my best 0 too 100 was with them

less pressure - 20psi for max grip - 40psi for normal drive and good economy

pineapple / diff cradle kit - prevent tramping on the diff / hopping

camber (make the wheels sit flat when you dump power, most will find inwards, reducing contact area)

tune the boost curve to give best boost vs traction - ie AVCR with gearjudge

I guess you could always try not putting your foot to the floor in the 250kw+ Skyline and feeding it in..? Guess that can be a hard ask in the heat of the moment. Will have to see how i go next weekend i suppose...!

I don't want to get beaten by a fairly standard skyline (or a bloody WRX) after spending the amount I just have for 250-300kw so i might just get some damn good tyres...! :P

I guess your usual inner-city drag doesn't start off with a full on launch though anyway, it's usually the feel each other out through the first half of first, then once you both know you are going to go put the power down... Am I right to assume that in that situation the 250-300kw Skyline is going to leave the 200kw one, or the SS / XR8 / WRX in the dust (obviously that is then taking the launch out of it...)?

^ LOL

better tyres - cost = more grip usually, pzeros are ace, my best 0 too 100 was with them

less pressure - 20psi for max grip - 40psi for normal drive and good economy

So 20psi in street tyres is about the best for traction? Might give it a try.

Hahaha yeah obviously. Might try them at 20psi and have a bit of practice launching to see how they hold up.

hey mate

20psi does indeed give noticably better traction but it's more for straight line stuff

just be careful in particular with running taller profile tyres at that pressure, especially if you plan to corner hard/kick the back-end out..

when I was younger I was a passenger in a VN SS running low rear tyre pressures for grip and the tyre rolled off the rim. wasn't pretty.

cheers,

-dave

Yeah definitely wouldn't be taking any high G corners with 20psi in them :P Like I said, wouldn't mind doing a bit of practice with launching. Definetely want to start getting the power down a lot better and earlier so semi slicks will definetely be on the agenda once mine are worn down.

Edited by PM-R33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...