Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just discovered the speed limiter on my 33 has been disabled some how...The car is completely stock '95 model...I had a look for cut wires etc but couldn't find anything that looked suspicious...the car has only recently been brought over from Japan and it was suggested to me that maybe the ecu has been chipped.

So for all you tech whizzes I have taken a photo of inside the ecu...(a bit blurry sorry)...it looks pretty stock to me but I could be looking at a photo of my arse and I wouldn't know... any help would be appreciated. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31831-no-speed-limiterchipped-ecu-maybe/
Share on other sites

cos...um...it went way past 180... it would have been to at least the 220km/h mark then I slowed down... maybe I didn't give it time to cut before I slowed down... I kind of got scared cos it just kept going and my gf was beginning to look nervous;)

i have the same.. no signs of any wire cut, no speed cut defender wired in, and the ECU inside looks stock.. but will go a fair way past 180. Your ECU looks like mine (stock there).

Maybe there is another method? or maybe it wasn't included in a rare number of cars. I've always wondered!

looks like a stockie ECU.

my ECU is modified and it looks a 'tad' different to yours

BUT, in saying that. Over in Japan they can mod the ECU's a number of different ways.

Those Square chips at the bottom of that pick can be modded.

But yeah, it could be your speedo is out.

I had my old car with a limiter almost around to the reset before the cut came in :)

If the MEC number on the ECU matches that on the outside of the ECU then it would be stock.

For the R33's it wouldn't be financially viable to re-chip it JUST to remove the 180km/h limit.

Maybe they installed a speed cut defender and had it installed right up under the dash, way out of sight? Or maybe Nissan was feeling nice for a few months :)

J

Nick - Don't go by the speedo for the cut as most of the R33 speedo's I've seen are way outta wack at those sort of speeds. However - ALL off the speed cuts I've seen are at 5,000rpm. Use that as you test - not the speedo.

mine definately doesnt have a speed cut. So lucky for me, have been racing other 33's 32's S13's etc with speed cuts, they hit em and i keep goin. I have gone right off the clock for awhile a couple of times and do not beleive there is still one hiding away somewhere. To me its not something i am concerned about or even ask the question about. Its a bonus the way i see it.

check the wiring going into the computer. There is one that is i think green with a yellow stripe and mine has a wire spliced in there and definitely no speed cut, so I suspect a computer is installed. From meggala's site i believe this was the speed wire.

With the stock ECU, mine used to cut at ~5,000rpm as stated, which was just past vertical on the speedo. I happened to be beside a mate's S6 RX7 on a couple of these occasions ;) , his car cut about a second before mine did.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...