Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Agreed 100%. Sounds like he is out there and doing it. Incidentally how do you find your 32 deals with heat loadings?

Well at 230rwkws with std radiator and a 19 row oil cooler i can get about 4 laps out of it before the water gets over 95 and oil nudges 100 deg C. I stop at that level because its a std motor. But as soon as i wind 19psi and 260rwkws into it i can only get around two laps out my car at full noise and 8,000rpm. Of course if i run a tad lower boost and only use 6,800rpm por so instead of 8,000rpm then i can circulate pretty comfortable on the std radiator.

So, borderline and ruins the fun as you can get into a rhythem and work up to a lap, but still fun. I have shrouded up the std radiator so any air through the front bar has to go through the intercooler and the radiator. I have new electirc thermo fans, low temp thermostat, and tossing up between a PWR or Race Radiator setup to go with my Billion thermo controller. But yeh, lots of agro for a lousy 50hp, woudl probably be quicker doing more consitant laps at lower boost with more running then winding it up boost and revs wise and being messy :rofl:

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Maybe I took the OP's comments a little differently, but I'd think he's generally looking at the "drag" between turns, not a 1/4 mile? Don't under-rate how fast and easily a 300rwhp Skyline can cover ground...

I'm not, however remember that it isn't to hard to have a setup that can make more power and be more responsive than the stock turbo setup is. Just because the stock turbo is small, doesn't mean that is is the most responsive and has the best low down power possible, because that simply aint the case.

But yeah you are right, he probably did mean out of corners on a bit of a straight or something because out on the street driving along and putting your foot down, no way in hell.

Edited by PM-R33

Think I'm able to comment here...

I have a 32 with 25DET and its running a 2530, it was a legacy from the RB20 I used to have.

Just had it tuned by Trent (Status) and it made 231rwkw @ 15psi.

It makes full boost by 2750 and pulls nicely to redline and picks up from anywhere and in any gear. I cant say it feels like it needs more, especially if any street driving will be done. More than capable of lighting up 3rd in the dry with 235's on the rear...

Maybe I took the OP's comments a little differently, but I'd think he's generally looking at the "drag" between turns, not a 1/4 mile? Don't under-rate how fast and easily a 300rwhp Skyline can cover ground...

Agreed 100%. Sounds like he is out there and doing it. Incidentally how do you find your 32 deals with heat loadings?

That spec high flow was mine Adrian. 300rwhp @ 12psi. Max boost by 2700rpm. Easy, reliable power and because it made power early it was very easy to drive fast point to point. Not really a drag strip weapon, but in terms of getting power down early out of turns it could get the jump on 260-300rwkW cars and generally punch above its weight.

I've not seen anyone else run with that turbo spec, but it certainly worked. Not sure, but I don't think it would do much more than 300rwhp, cranking more boost should yield bigger mid range stick though. I often wondered if an OP6 housing would have allowed it to make torque as the rpm went over 6000, but not have a major impact on torque between 2000-3000rpm.

Given that this is a proven unit, I'd go this way. Really very similar to the unit I had built, with the advantage of some extra flow capacity if desired. Back it in this should produce the 300hp @ 12psi as mine did, but with the ability to make another 40hp with a few more pounds. Possibly some differences in boost response right down low in the rpm, but I'd be certain Stao could supply the 48T cartridge if it was an issue.

Cheers dale for the comments sounds like you have a good set up just what im after, what ecu and set up are you using?

Yeah i do beat up on the car alot and the temps stay fairly good. say when im drifting it sits at 7000rpm for about 5 to 6 laps (dependging on how long the tyres last) and the water temp stays below 100 deg but the oil temp can climb up to the 120 to 140 mark depending and the ambiant temps. i have a oil cooler and big alloy radiator and never had overheating issues even on a 38 deg day, On track days i have done 15 laps straight driving it real hard and its fine, just the tyres that give up:)

So you would reccommend hi flowing the standard turbo?

With that spec, I ran a PFC, 040 pump, and the brown 450cc manual trans spec S15 injectors. Basic, cost effective and sized appropriately to the job.

If you want to consistently bang up around 5000-7000rpm, it sounds like you need to make sure the turbine housing isn't such a restriction. Ask yourself where you want the peak torque band to sit in the rev range, and check the turbine options. As much as anything, it's how/where you make the 300rwhp as what the ceiling is. I found the stock R33 spec housing started to choke as revs rose, and it had well done its best by 6500rpm. I don't know if the OP6 Neo spec housing is the same as Hypergear's 0.63 A/R casting.

You've seen a post on this thread from a reputable SAU trader with his recommendation. I'd probably be getting on the phone to Stao and discuss what options he can give you to tailor the equipment to your needs. Running high revs/load and with excessively high turbine inlet pressures aren't good for power production, and can lead to engine problems with excess heat retained in the combustion chambers.

140 degree oil temps don't sound great, I would be consulting for technical advice and make sure you are running an oil spec that can survive that treatment too. My guess is that Roy has been down that path already.

Thats very good power out of a 2530 on 15psi. Did it have more left in it on more boost?

Maybe a little, Trent tuned it - I haven't posted the Dyno yet, but I can if you want.

Initially its was 14 psi and ~225 kw, so it had a little more, but standard injectors (90% duty), so didnt want to push that hard. But it seemed to respond well to more boost

I was only really after a streetable package, dont care about the numbers, just want good powerband and response - which I have in buckets now :P

thats good news ^^, coz i have a hks 2535 sitting here with 480cc injectors and a z32 afm to go into my r33, most likely on a nistune, when i eventually get my ass motivated, and other more important crap stops coming up!

and like you, i'm not interested in numbers. i just want response, low/mid range torque, and a totally useable street car. oh, and a few spare sets of tyres :P

i would imagine close to 250rwkw at 18psi or so?

Edited by Munkyb0y
disco potato would be insane to drive with on a rb25 :P

Yes they are insane. They are the most responsive turbo in their fram size. Including the GT25 range. I don't think anyone here has actually compared the flow charts for them to a 2530/35 otherwise they would reliase the Disco is a much better turbo for the job. Like was said above, smaller doesn't always mean better. And there is somthing to be said for MATCHING the right turbo to an engine, not just getting some tiny thing and saying 'oh it's sweet, it comes on hard at 2700' when the last part of that sentence ends like this: 'yeah but it drops off very quickly at 6000rpm'

Disco will come on at the same time, gives you the potential for moe power when you want it and will pull all the way to redline.

Is the HKS GT2530 not using the same cartridge as the Garrett GT2860RS aka Disco Potato?

Is the real difference between those two units that

1. GT2530 uses a RB friendly T3 flange pattern that allows it to bolt up?

2. GT2860RS uses a T25 flange pattern, and a larger 0.86A/R housing vs the 0.63 for HKS?

There was a comment passed on a particular spec high flow, which happens to use the next size UP compressor and therefore with greater flow potential. It was good in its intended environment, and the experience shared with someone who wanted to know.

Best practice is to match turbo to engine to intended use. For that reason I'd still advise fubar to consult with the supplier and find what turbine housing sizes/options are available for that given turbine size. If he wants to make the thing able to breathe at higher rpm, go for the bigger housing.

Shame that the GT2860RS is spec'd with the T25 pattern because otherwise it would probably have been used in plenty of RB25 engine bays already.

No time ATM but .

GT2530 = 446179-5021 CHRA , from memory GT2860RS = 446179-5066 .

The real original spec DP turbo uses a 0.86 A/R T25/28 flanged GT28 turbine housing .

I reckon the 48 and 52T GT2871Rs are better sized unless you want a std replacement in the form of a Garrett GT BB turbo .

Yeah Dale an OP6 housing on your Hi Flow looks like a good idea ....

A .

I Have Hi Flow Spec Turbo in GT2860RS on a 0.86A/R Housing. on 58T I have a RB25DET.. I plan running it on 17-18PSI n they've increased the Max RPM to 8000RPM.

It's gettin tuned tommorrow wif Sard 550cc injectors n Z32AFM.

Hypergear made it for me :-)

Actually the original form of the GT2860RS was with the 0.86 A/R turbine housing . Many at Garrett in the US reckoned that if it didn't have the larger ratio turbine housing it wasn't a real DP turbo . They also said that HKS was silly not to have had a 0.86 A/R turbine housing available for the GT2530 .

Anyhow like most things in the GT25/GT28 families the hard bit is finding a T3 flanged turbine housing to make them bolt onto RB exhaust manifolds . HKS have them in 0.64 A/R and Garrett don't do any T3 flanged housings for them at all .

A .

I think if you really wanted to run a GT2860 family BB turbo the go would be to find a second hand "GT2530" designed for an RB engine and run that . If not enough you can run a GT2871R in its turbine housing because they use the same turbine wheel .

Something to think about is the fact that HKS GT2530s seem to work well on RB20's so you'd think an RB25 could use something with a bit more airflow .

I'm just looking at the maps for the GT2860RS and the GT2871R 48T , the RS hit the wall airflow wise at about 36 pounds and the 2871 48T at about 39 pounds by mass of air .

JC put together the original RS turbo for an 1800cc four and while they also work well on 2L fours I think the airflow from them is a bit lacking for a 2.5L six . An RB25 isn't exactly lacking at low revs so it doesn't need boost for torque at 2000 revs . From memory std RB25 turbos have a compressor that's around 68-70mm OD so I wouldn't want to be going smaller than that .

Possibly what the original poster needs to think about is what turbo would give OE like power delivery and have a bit more squirt without any loss of response or torque - anywhere .

I can see where people think the lowest possible boost threshold would be good but instant torque at low revs can actually be tiresome to live with because you end up getting boost when you don't want it and it always feels on/off with little in between .

Dale do you have the link to your hi flow thread ?

A .

Edited by discopotato03

I've built few different housings in T3x bolt flange with a OEM 6 bolt dump pattern that is made to suit a GT2xBB and T2x sleeve bearing housings. available in .63 T3 and .82 T3 as well as modified T28 turbine housings rated at .64 and .86.

My main concern would be high back pressure running the small .64 rear housings. I believe its wise to run .86 modified T2x / .63 T3x rears to maintain similar response, while picking up better torque with lower back pressure.

My self is currently running a 2871 52T profiled sleeve bearing turbo in T3x .63 rear with OEM dump pattern. The driving ability is exactly same as the stock OP6 turbo with about 25% more power and torque through out all rev ranges.

It does not have this strong "pull feel" as my previous 3586 or 3076 profiles in .82 rears did but far more responsive then any of them.

I'll be seeing dr.drift for a tune tomorrow and see what it makes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...