Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, it appears bridgestone have decided to take a very popular tyre off the production line.

This is being replaced by RE55, which I have been told is very soft, and wont last long (a few thousand kms).

Does anyone know of a comparable tyre to the RE540? Similar grip, wear, price?

Cheers

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31907-no-more-re540s-what-next/
Share on other sites

well i think these r expensive but the looked to have worn well drifting 2 laps around Tsukuba in a s14

Advan Neova AD07's im talking about

but i think the price is a bit too scarey for most

:) :)

If they are good for drift, I dont think they will be doing me any favours

well they seemed to hold onto the road pretty well while still drifting, so im guessing there is some good rubber there

they also tested the advan neova (std one) which looked like a semi slick tyre

not sure how that one went

I've run the re55s, they are spectacular, but like you said....too soft.

I did hear a rumour that the initial batch were softer than the factory wanted and that future tyres will be a different compound. I'm sure Gordon Levin in Emu Plains could confirm, they are the NSW distributor.

As for options, the Dunlop D03js are also out, I haven't tried them yet and they are more expensive....but the D01js were v similar to the old re540s.

Id be interested to hear from anyone who has used the D03js and how they compare?

Hi guys, we use Yokohama A032R's for circuit races (Improved Production and Combined Touring control tyre). They were about 1/2 second slower around Eastern Creek, but lasted longer, that the 540 in the dry. They were heaps faster in the wet though. They seem to be a popular tyre in Targa Tas as well, almost all of the cars I have seen use them.

Gordy supplies them as well.

Sydneykid, what do you know about the Pirelli's they use in the v8brutes series?

Adrian

I know that they suck lol.

They're not real r tyres (dunlop I think, not pirellis)....my car on formula rs is as quick as a brute around wakefield park. Pretty poor really.

I know the Dunlop D01Js were very similarly priced to the RE540s, and very similar in performance...

Dundan, have you got any more info on those D03Js? Google returned nothing...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...