Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, it appears bridgestone have decided to take a very popular tyre off the production line.

This is being replaced by RE55, which I have been told is very soft, and wont last long (a few thousand kms).

Does anyone know of a comparable tyre to the RE540? Similar grip, wear, price?

Cheers

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31907-no-more-re540s-what-next/
Share on other sites

well i think these r expensive but the looked to have worn well drifting 2 laps around Tsukuba in a s14

Advan Neova AD07's im talking about

but i think the price is a bit too scarey for most

:) :)

If they are good for drift, I dont think they will be doing me any favours

well they seemed to hold onto the road pretty well while still drifting, so im guessing there is some good rubber there

they also tested the advan neova (std one) which looked like a semi slick tyre

not sure how that one went

I've run the re55s, they are spectacular, but like you said....too soft.

I did hear a rumour that the initial batch were softer than the factory wanted and that future tyres will be a different compound. I'm sure Gordon Levin in Emu Plains could confirm, they are the NSW distributor.

As for options, the Dunlop D03js are also out, I haven't tried them yet and they are more expensive....but the D01js were v similar to the old re540s.

Id be interested to hear from anyone who has used the D03js and how they compare?

Hi guys, we use Yokohama A032R's for circuit races (Improved Production and Combined Touring control tyre). They were about 1/2 second slower around Eastern Creek, but lasted longer, that the 540 in the dry. They were heaps faster in the wet though. They seem to be a popular tyre in Targa Tas as well, almost all of the cars I have seen use them.

Gordy supplies them as well.

Sydneykid, what do you know about the Pirelli's they use in the v8brutes series?

Adrian

I know that they suck lol.

They're not real r tyres (dunlop I think, not pirellis)....my car on formula rs is as quick as a brute around wakefield park. Pretty poor really.

I know the Dunlop D01Js were very similarly priced to the RE540s, and very similar in performance...

Dundan, have you got any more info on those D03Js? Google returned nothing...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...