Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just rang a place down the coast and they want $220.00 to clean if I take the rail in??????????????

Any one have another idea for a professional clean??

Have a look on the internet. I just had some flow tested and while looking around I found prices vary from $25 to $50 per injector for clening and flow testing. (or you could just buy some new 550s)!
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319093-injectors/#findComment-5214052
Share on other sites

New Deka's are around the $400-$500 mark a set. There was some negative comments about them a while back but mine are running strong on E85.

On car cleaning is not going to work, they need to be placed in an ultrasonic bath. Is there a problem with them? If not, I wouldn't bother. Save up for some new ones mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319093-injectors/#findComment-5214097
Share on other sites

New Deka's are around the $400-$500 mark a set. There was some negative comments about them a while back but mine are running strong on E85.

On car cleaning is not going to work, they need to be placed in an ultrasonic bath. Is there a problem with them? If not, I wouldn't bother. Save up for some new ones mate.

I have a new set of Seimens deka coming this week 650cc

Hugh, it is well worth getting them done. Side feed injectors like you have can be a bit harder to do due to mounting them in the machine apparently. I had a mobile guy do my R33 4 years ago for $150 with them already out of the car.

They should replace the o rings hence the cost of getting them done.

My R33 had 2 out of the 6 injectors 10% down in flow prior to being cleaned. So when people say the factory 370cc injectors can handle "X" power they are assuming all 6 injectors are flowing the same. If 1 or 2 injectors are down 10% that is enough to run to lean on those cylinders. Goodby engine.

Don't buy new bigger injectors unless you have a new ECU to be able to run them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319093-injectors/#findComment-5217701
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is anyone running these axles? R32, R33, R34 GTR front Axles. shafts itself rated 950hp. Suit all RB26 engines Croydon, Melbourne, Victoria Would be nice to pay half the cost of Driveshaft Shop Axles. I'm building an AWD S13 Coupe that is very low ride height (high cv angle) compared to stock R32. Has an RB30 with appx 600whp. Just looking for feedback. Thanks, Josh- https://www.instagram.com/feng_shui_garage/
    • Been a long time since r31 got some love, my brother dropped a shitbox ls1 crapadore in my lap to fix up.  Put a wiper motor in as the flooded one was no longer alive.  got windscreen wipers now. Time to clean respray and install back in the titanic  IMG_0505.mov
    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
×
×
  • Create New...