Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello guys,

I'm having the same problem here so didn't wanna start a new tread about it.

Ok, so i've been having bad axle tramp for about 2 years now ever since i installed a ACT 6 puk clutch. Before this i had a XTD 6 puk clutch which was probably a weaker clutch then the ACT but didnt have issues. Been trying to diagnose the problem ever since. I know other people with the same clutch that doesnt have the problem so i thought its somewhere else. Been reading a lot on the forums and started changing different things.

Here's a list of things i've dont so far.

Checked tire pressure. From 20-35 PSI. I noticed on 29-30 PSI i have less axle tramp. Tires are kumho KU36, i also tried kumho ecsta supra with the same results.

Changed subframe bushings, differential front and rear bushings, Upper control arm bushings. And i've check all the other bushings to see if they're worn or have play in them. From the moment i dropped the subframe i noticed that none of the bushings seems worn but i changed them anyway to whiteline items.

I checked the car height. at the rears its at 350mm from center of the wheel to guard.

Checked shocks, front shocks were leaking so i changed all 4 shocks.

So i've done all these and still have axle tramp. But now i don't have it on the road, only at the drag strip. Before it was on the road and drag strip.

This is doing my head in, what else can i do to get this fixed? I checked my engine and transmission mount and they look like new, no vibration when i rev the engine.

I did notice this part though that looks old and brittle, but looked up info about it but couldnt find much. if anyone know the part number for this and which other Nissan uses it please let me know.

Can this be the cause of my troubles?

IMG-20130608-000.jpg

and here is a pic of my subframe with the new bushings.

IMG-20130608-00095.jpg

Anyone with more ideas please let me know cause i'm out of ideas atm, thanks.

Edited by Girorostar
  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yes, had kumho ecsta supra as well, same problem.

To add, i dont have any vibrations when i'm driving on the road with normal conditions. Car drives smooth. Only when i go to the drag strip i get this problem. From 1st gear to 2nd. After that smooth all the way to 4th. But i'm getting very bad 60 foot and i want to fix it grrr..

Edited by Girorostar

Well both tyres are not known for their grip so yes you would have same problem....

Years ago when i bought the car i had the kumho ecsta supra on it and was getting way better traction and no axle tramp. which is making me believe its something worn in the suspension and not the tires. Thats why i change back to them to see if its the tires to rule them out. But i am going to buy some micky thompson ET streets later on.

so my question is, could the tailshaft center bearing cause excessive axle tramp? Just to rule that one out too because i can't seem to find a place that sells them in the US (closer to where i'm located).

Gonna buy whiteline lower control arm bushing too to have all the rear bushings replaced.

Thanks for the reply.

What dampers do you have in there working against what spring rates? It's almost always inappropriate rebound damping rates. It's just that no-one realises it.

Well the car has stock springs and shocks still. I replaced the shocks with the same KYB items that it came with. Didnt change the springs. And it was axle tramping before i changed the shocks. Thought it was worn shocks but problem is still there. I'm thinking of buying BC coilovers next year when money permits.

How much movement do you have when you push the tail shaft by hand?

When i install the subframe back i checked if there was any movement, from front to rear no movement, only movement is when you rotate it to spin the wheels. But i'll check again to be sure.

Decent dampers required. KYB twin tubes axle tramp like a mofo in the rear of my R32. Similar car with Bilsteins does not. Just another reason for me to get off my arse and put new dampers in, but by the same token, axle tramp is a way of telling me to get off the gas and save the tyres and fuel both!!

Decent dampers required. KYB twin tubes axle tramp like a mofo in the rear of my R32. Similar car with Bilsteins does not. Just another reason for me to get off my arse and put new dampers in, but by the same token, axle tramp is a way of telling me to get off the gas and save the tyres and fuel both!!

Thats why i wanna buy the BC coilovers, havent heard anything bad about them yet. If the KYB shocks are my problem then i'll stop dragracing for a bit till they are replaced. Good thing it doesnt axle tramp on the road anymore, atleast that will keep me sane for awhile.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...