Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Still tearing down this RB25DET I picked up this week. My next challenge: removing the crank pulley. There's no flywheel on the motor so I can't really shove anything thru the ring gear to hold the crank in place.

So my questions.....

a) what's the thread diameter of the studs that mount the flywheel to the crank? in case I need to frankenstein something up to keep it steady.

b) Am I missing anything with removing that 27mm bolt, other than giving it a good smack with a hammer to crack the seal then just undoing it with the help of a breaker bar etc?

c) Anybody have an ingenious way of securing the other end of the crank, other than by my Frankenstein method above (metal bar with a few holes drilled in to secure it against the crank, then lock it against engine stand)

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319657-removing-crank-pulley-bolt-27mm/
Share on other sites

be careful man or you could damage the seal behind the crank.

put the flywheel on then use the bolts where the clutch attaches to the flywheel to tie some shit to the engine with

then yea breaker bar..

There's the problem tho - I don't have a flywheel, at all.

Thanks for the warning about the crank seal.

*Might* get access to one of those - would it be enough by itself to just crack the bolt straight off? I.e. does an air-powered tool deliver enough force to just break the bolt without needing to secure the other end etc?

yep...did it twice yesterday with RB26 engines...they were 350ft/lb tensioned. I do have a good rattle gun though but most reasonable quality ones should be enough for a 25.

The engine should provide enough resistance for the impact of the gun to loosen the bolt.

Thanks, THAT'S what I was trying to say :-)

OK, well the missus' old man has an air compressor, so I guess I need to hit up Kennard's for a rattle gun.... I wonder if they hire them out?

Thanks for the advice guys.

If no rattle gun, take the sump off and use rag covered spanner or such to wedge between the crank and block. (use a counterweight)

Great idea - I have a Bag O' Rags and a big-ass spanner. I'll try that before going for a rattle gun - I'll set the wrench up and smack it with my breaker bar.

If no rattle gun, take the sump off and use rag covered spanner or such to wedge between the crank and block. (use a counterweight)

ahh yes...before i had a rattler i used the wooden handle of an engineers hammer to wedge the counterweight.

yeah wood is the go try not to use anything thats hardened just in case it slips and centre punches something useful :P

the handle of the hammer i mentioned looks like a crocodile has been munching on it...lol

the handle of the hammer i mentioned looks like a crocodile has been munching on it...lol

I got the bastard off.

I wedged a piece of wood between the girdle and one of the rod caps at the point where the rod has minimum clearance from the girdle. Then with the timing belt still in place, I was able to undo the intake cam gear bolt and then the crank bolt with surprisingly little force... they didn't just come right off, but instead of the epic battle I was prepared for, I just had to use a measured amount of force with the breaker bar until they came free. Then used a pulley puller to get the harmonic balancer off, and that was that. It's amazing how easy it can be with the right tools (and good advice!). Thanks guys.

Head came off tonight, tomorrow I break apart the bottom end and see what the bearings look like.... :blush:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...