Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I have an r34 gt-t with a stock turbo, Blitz intercooler, 3.5" apexi exhaust and K&N panel filter.

All is good and cops stop me all the time but im legal, so now I'm thinking of getting a new turbo ( Another thing what do u recommend the garrett r30 or r35?), new injectors(what size should I get?), Fuel pump (what brand?).

So, if i put all these mods how bad is it when i get pulled over?

Thanks

BTW im in Melbourne, VIC

Edited by uaer34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319890-is-it-legal/
Share on other sites

Hi, I have an r34 gt-t with a stock turbo, Blitz intercooler, 3.5" apexi exhaust and K&N panel filter.

All is good and cops stop me all the time but im legal, so now I'm thinking of getting a new turbo ( Another thing what do u recommend the garrett r30 or r35?), new injectors(what size should I get?), Fuel pump (what brand?).

So, if i put all these mods how bad is it when i get pulled over?

Thanks

BTW im in Melbourne, VIC

You'd need ECU for this to work but it's doable if you hid them well. Just do a search on FI section plenty of info there.

In Victoria, apparently everything relates to motor vehicles are illegal, and it's only legal unless you get caught.

*shurgs*

Ever made love to a pitbull?

Have you?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319890-is-it-legal/#findComment-5223194
Share on other sites

Ever made love to a pitbull?

haha ma man!

to the op, its ok you can do it and tuck it away for the most part dont post a thread whinging you copped an epa though when the stop you the most likely visible issue mentioned would be injectors. fuel pump they wont know just turn the car off if its noisy turbo keep it all lookin stock and get ya computer kept out of sight should oks...

if you dont want headaches an shit dont bother what you want out of the car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319890-is-it-legal/#findComment-5223249
Share on other sites

I want my car to hit 250kw or more, its currently 163 kw

Just get a high flow man...easily achieve that power level with one and it will look alot more factory than putting on a larger turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319890-is-it-legal/#findComment-5223356
Share on other sites

Just get a high flow man...easily achieve that power level with one and it will look alot more factory than putting on a larger turbo.

yep, my turbo is highflowed and it is running 110% and im gunna try make around the 250kw range with this turbo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319890-is-it-legal/#findComment-5223376
Share on other sites

So, should i just high flow the stock turbo without the other mods?

Where is a good place to do it?

See Trent @ Status/Chequered tuning. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ed-t306755.html - Contact details on this thread.

Highflow the turbo, Nismo 480cc injectors, Nistune, Nismo bolt on fuel pump, Z32 AFM and Dump/front pipe if you don't have one. That should give you at least 250rwkw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319890-is-it-legal/#findComment-5223465
Share on other sites

Good call :wub: ,to the op don't do it you'll get reamed hard,my 2cents,i was down there a while ago saw lots of young peeps pulled over,if they ask you to open your bonnet your gone.

If you drive like a wanker you'll get pulled over. And if you get pulled over for driving like a wanker the cops will ping you for something regardless.

If yoou don't drive like a wanker and you car "appears" pretty stock, they will leave you be.

Even if they look under the bonnet, they won't go to extraordinary lengths to suss out your turbo, injectors and the like - unless you have been driving like a wanker.

Either high flow your current turbo or get one that is bolt on and looks pretty stock. The coppers won't care....unless you drive like a wanker.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319890-is-it-legal/#findComment-5224044
Share on other sites

If you drive like a wanker you'll get pulled over. And if you get pulled over for driving like a wanker the cops will ping you for something regardless.

If yoou don't drive like a wanker and you car "appears" pretty stock, they will leave you be.

Even if they look under the bonnet, they won't go to extraordinary lengths to suss out your turbo, injectors and the like - unless you have been driving like a wanker.

Either high flow your current turbo or get one that is bolt on and looks pretty stock. The coppers won't care....unless you drive like a wanker.

You sir, have never had the Knox TMU on your tail :P

Wanker or not, you don't always get left to your own devices but I agree you have much more chance of getting pulled over when you are driving like a wanker.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319890-is-it-legal/#findComment-5224229
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...