Jump to content
SAU Community

What Oil Are You All Using In Your 35's

Dan85
 Share

Recommended Posts

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted (edited)
before i do the change.. 5L bottle is enough yeah??

and 10 40 is the right grade???

4.6L is recommended, but no issue putting all 5L in.

You'll be fine with 10w40 (ignore Nissan's suggested 7.5w30 = too thin)

Edited by iamhe77
  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

mosoto Proficient

mosoto

Posted
Posted (edited)

As long as you are aware the Nulon is not a full synthetic, they are actually false advertising. Like I said earlier, there is a thread on Oils here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...80#entry5234530

Edited by mosoto
  • 4 months later...
diabolique Enthusiast

diabolique

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

Just a quick question - have used Mobil 1 and Valvoline, both Full Synthetic rated at 5w-30. It's time for an oil change and I was wondering if any of you have tried Penrite SIN Plus 5w-60. Haven't seen many brands with 5w-60 around - any thoughts?

Cheers,

Tarun

GT-R LM Proficient

GT-R LM

Posted
Posted
how about motul 5-40w 8100 X-CESS ?

also i seen on usa sites they dont recommend synthetic oils ?

Agreed Quite a few Mechanics have told me the same not to use synthetic in the v35 3.5 v6

Also was told In the log books it says "Nissan recommends mineral based oils"

A good quality mineral oil is the way to go.

Either way if you buy a decent full syn or mineral and service it at 5000km or under, you shouldn't have any problems.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

This one has a car doing a burnout on the front, it must be good. :huh:

Stick to grade 4 or 5 due to the high temps these VQ's run at all the time. 10w40 I have found to be a good compromise.

post-63525-1286076155_thumb.jpg

chad bob Enthusiast

chad bob

Posted
Posted

Fuchs 10W-40 Super GTO, Full synth.

Used it in my track car for 4 years and it held the motor together with no damage after losing ALL oil pressure when the oil cooler popped. So it's only natural that I use it in the Stag too.

Fuchs aren't too well known in the retail market, but from a lubricant engineering perspective theyre top notch. Used fuchs products in machinery for years.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
Gulf Western Sougi S6000. It's a classV fully Synthetic oil @ $80 for 5litres. There's a thread on oils worth reading

+1

I have been running it for a couple of changes now (I change every 10,000kms, but I use Group V oil) and have to say that my car likes it much better than the Redline...

... so does my wallet for that matter.

If you are in Vic, you can get it from the supplier for around $60... I picked up my last 5L bottle for $80 at Autobarn!

mosoto Proficient

mosoto

Posted
Posted
This one has a car doing a burnout on the front, it must be good. :rant:

Stick to grade 4 or 5 due to the high temps these VQ's run at all the time. 10w40 I have found to be a good compromise.

To quote a tried & true saying: "Never judge a book by it's cover". Too many of you are wasting your money on brand name oils like Motul & Royal purple. These are great oils, I'm not argueing that fact BUT the Sougi S6000 really is as good if not possibly better. It is actually a true group V full synthetic and a true gem of a find (thanks Birds :P ). Guys save yourself $40-$50 and try the Sougi with a decent filter like a K&N HP-1008 for the V35 and you'll find no difference other than money in the bank.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

:) I think you'll find that line in Scott's post was full of sarcasm.

I don't really agree that people will be wasting their money if they use Motul 300v or Redline, they are Group V oils and are absolutely brilliant.

Having said that, I find that the Sougi S 6000 is at least as good as the Motul 300v and both felt better in my car than the Redline (all 10w40).

If you can find it, buy the Sougi... it's a Group V oil at a Group IV price and VQ's love it :)

If people can't find it, then why shouldn't they still want the best oil for their pride and joy?

As an aside.... Sougi S 600 + Veruspeed oil filter = WIN :P:rant::yes:

mosoto Proficient

mosoto

Posted
Posted (edited)
:P I think you'll find that line in Scott's post was full of sarcasm.

I don't really agree that people will be wasting their money if they use Motul 300v or Redline

You read that out of context. They will be wasting money if they can buy the same oil for $40-$60 less.

Would you buy 5L of 300v for $140 at Autopro if supercheap had it for $80, I think probably not :rant:

Sougi >= 300v

Edited by mosoto
iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
You read that out of context. They will be wasting money if they can buy the same oil for $40-$60 less.

Would you buy 5L of 300v for $140 at Autopro if supercheap had it for $80, I think probably not :ermm:

Sougi >= 300v

That's fine and I agree IF they can get hold of the Sougi. If they can't, then I think that spending more on a Grade V oil such as 300v/Redline rather than settling on a Grade III/IV oil can only be beneficial for the engine.

It is a damn shame that the Sougi is so hard to find...

Old Gregg Enthusiast

Old Gregg

Posted
Posted

So far on the thread there are comments on oil use in turbo and NA motors, all VQ; but with different issues regarding ideal oil.

M35 stageas have ball bearing turbos - change more often, more sensitive to dirty oil - 5w30 factory recomended, probably to help fuel economy figures and generally agreed to give high oil consumption. Most use oil with 10w40 or 15w40.

Regarding mineral, semi-synthetic, synthetic - going to full synthetic from semi or mineral is suposed to be a no no as can clean off deposits and lead to increased oil use in older engines.

ATM Using Penrite HPR 10w50 in 2002 NM35 ARX, using just under 10L/100km on highway (real km not speedo,corrected with GPS as speedo out 7%) just over 14L/100km short trips and city. Seems to be performing well on this and has used none after 2,000km. Unless I use this for the next 20,000km can't really comment on engine protection and that is what we are after isn't it?

Best oil for the VQ NA motors - well who cares - they are NA. No really they are great motors, getting my wife a GT 350. :ermm:

mosoto Proficient

mosoto

Posted
Posted
That's fine and I agree IF they can get hold of the Sougi. It is a damn shame that the Sougi is so hard to find...

My local Autopro can get it in whenever I ask him to as they are an outlet for GW.

RVV35 Newbie

RVV35

Posted
Posted
That's fine and I agree IF they can get hold of the Sougi. If they can't, then I think that spending more on a Grade V oil such as 300v/Redline rather than settling on a Grade III/IV oil can only be beneficial for the engine.

It is a damn shame that the Sougi is so hard to find...

I purchased Sougi S6000 10w-40 today. I was advised that Sougi S6000 will be phased out BUT that in coming months it will be replaced with something similar. So those who think Sougi is being stopped, not so!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...