Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Item ☆: HNR32 Autech RB26 NA

Manufacturer ☆: Nissan Autech

Vehicle ☆: HNR32 Otekkubajon

And wound ☆: I blow the engine.

☆: Head Missing you think. We do not have more roses do not know.

For used goods ☆, thank you no claim no return.

Pretty much just for parts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320334-na-rb26-autech/#findComment-5236830
Share on other sites

Lol unless you stop and chat to everybody they won't know its a rare engine, but they'll certainly know how fast/slow it is :blush:

Could you whack on a turbo if u lowered the compression? I'd be interested in these engines if you could

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320334-na-rb26-autech/#findComment-5242865
Share on other sites

Could you whack on a turbo if u lowered the compression? I'd be interested in these engines if you could

Your f***ing kidding right?

You know what you would have then? A rb26.

Geez.

Edited by R33_Dude
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320334-na-rb26-autech/#findComment-5243275
Share on other sites

No matter what you do a turbo is the best mod for more power, and to your second line... "look at me i have the non turbo version of the bugatti vyron (or however its spelled) im so cool coz its rare... but honestly iv got to be fu*cking kidding right? without those turbo's and related mods its only 200hp hahahahhahahaha

Edited by R34 -_-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320334-na-rb26-autech/#findComment-5243787
Share on other sites

No matter what you do a turbo is the best mod for more power, and to your second line... "look at me i have the non turbo version of the bugatti vyron (or however its spelled) im so cool coz its rare... but honestly iv got to be fu*cking kidding right? without those turbo's and related mods its only 200hp hahahahhahahaha

Your totally missing the point: why would you turbo it when for an equivalent price you could have an actual RB26DETT. In other words why bother?

Also outright power isn't the point of an N/A engine: its response, tractability, and the power/torque curve.

Would be interesting for an na+t setup - keep the high comp pistons etc and put a low boost setup.

It would definately haul at low RPMs with out sacrificing response.

Yes it would be interesting, I imagine the result would be comparable to 2JZGE+T's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320334-na-rb26-autech/#findComment-5244835
Share on other sites

How is it different to everyone else doing a + t on all the other na cars? almost every other sports car from the same era came with a turbo model. all im saying is that if you want more power (who doesn't) put a turbo on it autech rb26de+t :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320334-na-rb26-autech/#findComment-5245073
Share on other sites

How is it different to everyone else doing a + t on all the other na cars? almost every other sports car from the same era came with a turbo model. all im saying is that if you want more power (who doesn't) put a turbo on it autech rb26de+t :)

...

Right.

I am assuming now that your a bit thick. So I'll spell it out slowly and carefully just for you seeing that everyone else seems to know whats going on.

Engine 1) Autech RB26DE, same compression, no turbo, more expensive than a RB26DETT

Engine 2) RB26DETT, same compression, twin turbo, less expensive than the Autech

It costs more and is cheaper to just f**king well buy a proper RB26DETT in the first place and not have to f**k about with god damn routing lines and manifolds and all the other bulls**t.

WHY WOULD YOU BUY AND TURBO AN AUTECH RB26?!?!

ANSWERS TO ABOVE RHETORICAL QUESTION (as in it didn't need answering but you know what 'cause your slow I'll answer it anyway): If you bought an Autech you wanted rare. And if you bought an Autech instead of a GTR your not going to turbo it. 'Cause if you did you would be a grade a cock smoker because you could have bought an equivalent GTR for less money.

OR

You got an Autech RB26 for a pittance, for absolutely sweet f**k all.

Does that answer your question as to why you would and wouldn't turbo an Autech RB26?

Edited by R33_Dude
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320334-na-rb26-autech/#findComment-5245339
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...