Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

g'day.

my r33 has an intermittant noisey lifter at rear of engine that is now consistantly tapping at idle

im running mobil super 2000 10w40 semi synth

has anyone had any experience with the lifter quietening additives such as nulon and liquimoly and are they

bad for my engine? how do they work, do I just run it in my oil for a few days since im about to service my

car next weekend anyway?

cheers!

-dave

Check that cam cover screws aren't loose. It can happen on exhaust side of back of engine. Can hear lifters more and get a oil leak when that happens.

Only proper solution to fix hydraulic lifter is pulling hydraulic lifter apart and cleaning the hydraulic lifter, as get gunk build up between 2 parts of hydraulic lifter that makes hydraulic lifter tick or seize (could be due to not servicing / changing oil often enough). Worse case you have to replace hydraulic lifter. It is said that you don't have to service hydraulic lifters, but I gather in reality you have to.

Note: Always remove hydraulic lifter and put hydraulic lifter back in same spot with same parts (don't mix up with other hydraulic lifter parts). Why, because each hydraulic lifter is bed in with each lobe on factory cams x2 with RB25DET.

Edited by SKYPER

Hey Dave, I used mobil 2000 semi as well and got the noisy ticking sound. I did a hot oil change and changed to penrite everyday full synthetic and used one of those "stop ticking engines" bottles. After 1 day the ticking noise went away and engine is running alot better :banana: maybe try that out, the penrite is only $55 and I think it's 5w50

Hey Dave,

I haven't had a problem with my RB25 but i did have with a RB30 in a R31, It used have very noise lifters after a thrash on the track, what i did was i ran diesel engine Oil for a while about 4 months because it has a high detergent content, , it'll remove the sludge build up in the engine I used BP Vanellis its a very stable oil you need to change your oil and filter often and while hot, my RB30 had a huge build up of sludge and carbon confirmed after removing the rocker cover due to not having the oil replaced often enough and obliviously the wrong type of used prior to me owning the vehicle, after using the diesel oil it cleaned up fine, i ran a semi synthetic oil and i used a Nulon friction additive and never had a problem after that even after thrashing it at the track to redline all day. I wouldn't remove the lifters unless the engine is idling rough or its so noisy that it is causing damage.The main reason hyd. lifters get noisy is that they get blocked up with gunk and either cant bleed down or pump up, There are engine flush products also that could help but i've never used them so i don't know how safe they are. good luck

Doing a service on the lifters is a good idea if/when the engine is out, or head off and you have/make time to do it.

Gum/varnish buildup happens normally, and I agree with the oil spec and servicing regime as to when/if the lifters become a problem.

There are a few parts that make up a hydraulic lifter, and servicing them isn't much more than getting them disassembled, using a bit of solvent and manual scrubbing, then reassembling them.

post-19642-1274081154_thumb.jpg

When you do 24 lifters if just becomes a matter of keeping things in order, and I agree reinstall them onto the same cam lobes.

post-19642-1274081101_thumb.jpg

Just be sure not to lose anything during the process. :)

I wouldnt use lfter additive, as they tend to gum everything up. Either use diesel oil for a bit, clean the lifters, or you caould use some engine flush, but i dont like using that on high km motors. Are you sure ti isnt a leaking exhaust manifold gasket, as they can sound very similar.

I wouldnt use lfter additive, as they tend to gum everything up. Either use diesel oil for a bit, clean the lifters, or you caould use some engine flush, but i dont like using that on high km motors. Are you sure ti isnt a leaking exhaust manifold gasket, as they can sound very similar.

hey mate i have had noisey exhaust gaskets on my old v8 commodores before

this is a much more metalic tapping noise and it sounds like it's only the single lifter.

heard some mixed reports about mobil super 2000 so going to flush it hot and try fusch super gto 10w40w

and yes i haven't changed my oil lately it's about 5400km old however still have to nurse car and back

to work until wednesday. this morning the noise had gone away again? it's driving me nuts.

seems "mobil" and "mobil 1" branded oils are worlds apart, with about a $40 price difference for 5litres so don't beleive everything you see on the bottle like 'semi synthetic'

hopefully the fusch stuff is a bit better it's only $55 or so a bottle and as mentioned im always reluctant to add engine additives as i used a stop leak in my old commodore 5 litre once and it made the oil leaks disappear for a couple months, then come back with a vengence and make the car undrivable. seems a shame since my engine is in otherwise such good nick (158,000km.. perfect compression).

thanks for the help will report back.

-dave :)

Any idea on a price trent...last price I saw was $50 for each lifter :ninja:

i will check my last invoice. For an comparo sr ones were $96 rrp and there is half as many so i reckon around $200 rrp for the set of rb... from memory.

  • 2 months later...
its pretty common, they are not all that dear for a full new set. i hate any additive..

not that expensive?

I called 2 different Nissans and they quoted me $125 PER LIFTER.

I have no idea why. I asked them to double and triple check. Yep. Per lifter.

Its horse shit.

The lifter is either dead. or gummed up. I've fixed noisey lifters before with a bottle of engine flush and slightly thicker oil (ie. 10/30 to 15/40) but that's on 300,000km falcondores, I don't know if you'd want to do it on a turbo or low km engine?

  • 1 year later...

Bumping up the dead. :action-smiley-069:

So how did you go dave_rb20 cause i have the same problem. its a RB30 with 25 head just recently brought the car.

its not a loud tick, it goes away and comes back (done it 3 times now).

just wounder should i just replace the f'd one or replace all of them?? :cheers:

It would be kind of pointless opening up head and only replacing the one thats broken cause you dont know how lOng the rest will last. Either change em all or rebuild and clean them all as would be my option since lifters are a rip.

best price i have found on OEM lifters so far is $90 each.. x 24 it adds up to be expensive..

i might just buy 2 new lifters replace the one the is f'd, and then rebuild/clean the rest and take it from there!

Edited by BMYHOE

i simply did them 4 at a time, keeping the bits seperate and putting them back where they were. just make sure you dont put too much oil in them when assembling them. i had 1 lifter that pumped up and refused to bleed down, was holding an inlet valve open. had to tear apart the whole top end just to replace 1 lifter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To plug the hole. The engine plant may not have known whether the car it was going into had a gauge or not. It was a long time ago and the integrations might not have been fully modern. Or they might not have cared because the extra inventory and processes to save a few cents on the sender might have cost more anyway. But please tell me you are not still confusing the idea of a pressure gauge sender, and an oil pressure light switch. The switch will be out there. In a separate hole. Probably with only one wire running to it. Running the light.
    • Blower needs to go low on the exhaust side, displacing the AC and PS, which you have to decide whether you want to keep and how and where to relocate if you do. Electric option for PS is, at least, helpful. Sadly, there is no workable 12V electric AC of any value. Whilst the blower is the last compression step before the throttle, and so it might seem a good idea to have it near the inlet manifold (as mentioned above), you probably want it to go through an intercooler first, so, having it on the opposite side of the car facilitates that air flow path. The turbo discharges into the blower, so proximity of the turbo's compressor outlet to the blower's inlet is nice. But then you might want to intercool that too, before boosting it again....which would probably be a ball ache. Routing pipes out to the front and back could be a bit shit. If there was room for (at least) a small (but preferably larger) water to air core on that side, then that would probably be the best approach. I guess a reasonable alternative would be to locate the blower where the alternator is (more or less, associated with the inlet manifold, per Matt's thought), and somehow incorporate a water to air core into the manifold, sort of like they do for modern blown V8s. The big difference here though is that those V8s have only the one throttle (upstream the blower) and only the one compression step (the blower) and no need for too much in the way of bypass/blowoff valves. Whereas in a twin charged 6, you do need to think about one or two bypass valves associated with the 2 compressors and you would prefer to have the intercooling done before the air has to pass through the throttle. You'd like the throttle to work approx the same no matter what the compression is doing. But if it is located in hot air stream before a cooler, then sometimes the air will be real hot, sometimes it will be quite cool, and the throttle mapping/response will be quite different between those two cases. The throttle, if sized for hot air, would be too large for cold conditions. It's all a ball ache.
    • Package SC on exhaust side. Remote mount turbo. Still a fair bit of room when you get creative on the inlet side of the motor too. Especially if you can get really creative with the welding, and effectively build it into the bottom of the inlet manifold. Would definitely take some design work, and some trial and error, to make sure flow works well still! Might be easier to just start with the Nissan March though... All the work is already done for you...
    • I'll sit down and get a post together 😁
    • The factory oil pressure sender is no longer in the car that's what is confusing me. In the Taarks adapter I have an aftermarket Bosch style pressure/temp sender and the factory temp sender only. Oil pressure is perfect. Where does the factory oil temp sender go to if there were never any gauges? Why was it there from the factory?
×
×
  • Create New...