Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah you can't see what the back pressure is doing by looking at a dyno plot - sometimes it can show up as the power falling over prematurely due to the tuner having to pull timing to avoid detonation before MBT. Funnily enough this dyno plot looks like what you could expect to see in that case, if it weren't for the claim that the early drop off is due to wheelspin. Silly rolling road dynos...

Will be interesting to see how it goes on a hub dyno, and how the engine/turbo lasts at that power level if its going to be used on the track at the power level at all?

At face value, very nice power level and spool for a convenient and affordable package :blush:

Didn't Mafia make over 300wkw with a .63a/r GT3076R?

I think it was Geoff Raicer (of Full-Race fame) who once commented on a forum that torque starts declining when ex manifold pressure exceeds intake manifold pressure in a turbo setup. I guess this makes sense as it is at this point the VE would start declining resulting a drop off in torque and therefore hp. Hopefully the decline doesn't happen too rapidly resulting in a short torque/powerband.

The aim of the game is to get torque to build as early as possible and hold it flat to the redline - easier said than done with smaller responsive turbo's.

That was all the way to rev limiter. Drop off was mainly from lose of traction. Sam did not back off early. You can double check with Sam if you want.

The Main point is that we've managed to controll and hold boost all the way to 18psi using an internal gate setup on a .63 turbine housing.

and

This turbo has made the most power out of all the R33/34 high flows there are with 98 RON Fuel.

This is a very BIG claim that is untrue.

My car as a hiflow turbo form Adelaide Turbo Services and GCG and has made 298.2RWKW and couple of years ago and will be going back for a retune in a few weeks.

Cheers

NutR33

except your are runnning RB27 stroker and this is a RB25 stock. Also not been straped down.

strap down or hub result is going to be soo interesting to see. can't wait. :devil:

except your are runnning RB27 stroker and this is a RB25 stock. Also not been straped down.

strap down or hub result is going to be soo interesting to see. can't wait. :ermm:

+1 :D Cant wait to see more results!

I will be getting a high-flow done with tao so always good to see recent R&D

This is a very BIG claim that is untrue.

My car as a hiflow turbo form Adelaide Turbo Services and GCG and has made 298.2RWKW and couple of years ago and will be going back for a retune in a few weeks.

Cheers

NutR33

Has this been run on other dynos? or was it a one off?

I would also expect a bit more than 116mph from that power figure, been that Ive run and many others have too, 105mph with 180rwkws

Has this been run on other dynos? or was it a one off?

I would also expect a bit more than 116mph from that power figure, been that Ive run and many others have too, 105mph with 180rwkws

Just the same way 2 turbos can make the same peak output and completely different delivery, 2 tunes can do the same.

He might have the numbers, but might not have the torque to get the MPH down. The ET sounds about right for the car and MPH.

Torque wins races, pulling timing and fuel doesnt.

"This turbo has made the most power out of all the R33/34 high flows there are with 98 RON Fuel"

Sorry but i didnt see anywhere in his claims that it was the highest power figure on an RB25 or any other motor or level of mods.

  • 3 weeks later...

hey guys well i finnaly took this turbo of Toa, and let me tell you this its runs amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!! now all i need to do is get a tune!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...