Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have bought myself a r33 gts-t turbo manual with only 86,000ks. The car is immaculate, its my first turbo car and my first nissan and I must say I have fallen in love with it.

The car is currently stock and has a pod filter (no box), cat back exhaust (appears to be good quality, 3inch stainless with two large mufflers, fairly quiet)

I have done a service on it myself, cleaned the afm, new engine oil, diff oil, gearbox oil and new platinum plugs. it is going in this week for a timing belt and water pump. Oh the other mod is a big alloy radiator...

anyway now that the car is all serviced up I want to start modifying it for a little more power.

My goal here is to make it as responsive as possible while keeping as much power in the usable street range as possible.

This is what I had in mind, was keen to see what people though, what I havnt thought of and what they think the gains will be? not just from a power point of view but an on road feel.

I have got most of these parts, just waiting on the cooler and then a day off to fit it all at once.

- Return flow intercooler (to keep it legal)

- re-fit stock airbox

- fit a BMC panel filter

- make a scoop to direct air up into the snorkle

This will be stage one. what should I get out of this?

stage two will be

- fit a 3inch dump pipe

- replace rear muffler with a cannon or something similar for a little better note as it is too quiet

At this point will I need a full tune or should the computer adjust for it accordingly?

If I am not happy with it still I will have the boost pressure increased to 10ish or more if required but will be mindful of the stock turbo.

Look forward to peoples input

Thanks

Jason

  TUF250 said:
Hi,

I have bought myself a r33 gts-t turbo manual with only 86,000ks. The car is immaculate, its my first turbo car and my first nissan and I must say I have fallen in love with it.

The car is currently stock and has a pod filter (no box), cat back exhaust (appears to be good quality, 3inch stainless with two large mufflers, fairly quiet)

I have done a service on it myself, cleaned the afm, new engine oil, diff oil, gearbox oil and new platinum plugs. it is going in this week for a timing belt and water pump. Oh the other mod is a big alloy radiator...

anyway now that the car is all serviced up I want to start modifying it for a little more power.

My goal here is to make it as responsive as possible while keeping as much power in the usable street range as possible.

This is what I had in mind, was keen to see what people though, what I havnt thought of and what they think the gains will be? not just from a power point of view but an on road feel.

I have got most of these parts, just waiting on the cooler and then a day off to fit it all at once.

- Return flow intercooler (to keep it legal)

- re-fit stock airbox

- fit a BMC panel filter

- make a scoop to direct air up into the snorkle

This will be stage one. what should I get out of this?

stage two will be

- fit a 3inch dump pipe

- replace rear muffler with a cannon or something similar for a little better note as it is too quiet

At this point will I need a full tune or should the computer adjust for it accordingly?

If I am not happy with it still I will have the boost pressure increased to 10ish or more if required but will be mindful of the stock turbo.

Look forward to peoples input

Thanks

Jason

A lot of people will probably bitch and whine and complain that you haven't done a search :P

As a rule of thumb, if you search for something and can't find it, you're not looking hard enough :P haha

You will not NEED to get a tune with the stuff you have listed. a) Unless your ECU is something other than stock, you can not tune it and b) Those mods wont be pushing the boundaries too badly.

However as you increase the boost and therefore increase the airflow you can hit R & R. If you don't know what it is, searchy search :)

Personally, I would not just do a 3" dump pipe and then change the cannon, If you are going to go to the trouble of fitting a 3" dump you may as well fit a full 3" system :)

Other than that I think you are on track for some good starting mods :) better outflow of exhaust gas, better intake of clean air, cooler charged air at TB and a little more boost. In the eyes of response though, the big front mount will increase the lag, but if you are going to up the boost a little more then there should be a fair trade off. If you want a tiny bit more boost without spending big money you can look in the DIY section for "hi boost mode" or something like that using the stock boost solenoid. Or you can get an rb20 actuator.

That should keep you happy for a while.........until your new found addiction strikes again

straight through exhaust FTW :P

pretty sure changing to a cannon wont do much other than empty your wallet. put it somewhere more worthwhile like a piggyback ecu at the least if you're not going to get a full standalone.

i reckon around 10 extra rwkw, if you do as blood suggests and get an ecu then 20 or so. I personally wouldn't waste my $$$ on a safc2 or anything if you intend modding because you will quickly reach its limits. Bite the bullet and go a complete ecu right from the start, you will never look back. And forget the zorst for now, what you have sounds more than up to the task, put your $$$ where you will get the best bang for bucks.

you sound pretty on track with where your headed imo , when you get the dump/front pipe , get a high flow cat converter , is your exh a 3in? . The bigger intercooler won't cause any noticable lag (if any , the dump/front pipe will bring boost on earlier which will bring it back to stock or better responce anyway) . Make sure your fuel pump is healthy (or just buy a new one if it hasn't been replaced , prefferably bosh 040/044) , block the stock boost controller off and get one of the cheap t piece ones that are all over this site , set it to 8psi for now , buy yourself a power fc if you can afford it or an safc will do for now and GET IT TUNED , imo best bang for buck mod is a decent tuner @ $500~

p.s another thing that may help is replacing the oxy sensor and water temp sensor , both are servicable items but i never hear of people replacing them! (and fuel filter when you do the fuel pump)

Edited by toffy

good info. yeah it is a 3inch system and i think it has a high flow cat but i will check it when i put the dump pipe in.

Will I cause any harm if i run the car with the cooler, full exhaust and stock boost? will it cause problematic AFRs?

I will get it tuned but I just want to make sure I get all the mods I want done first.

Definately will change those sensors too. thanks for the tip!

You won't cause any harm as the stock ECU with those mods will run rich not lean.

Unsure why everyone is suggestinng SAFC. For a tiny bit extra I would go a Nistune. Full retunable ECU so will get you more gain now & you won't have to upgrade again l.aterif you add more mods...

so if i put these mods on it will run ricjer not leaner? i know they run rich from the factory so i thought with the extra cooling ability and therefore denser intake charge it would balance the AFRs out a bit more.

picking up the cooler tonight. very large return flow cooler. I got myself a stock airbox with snorkle which I will put back in at the same time. hoping for good results!

next will be the dump pipe to match the rest of the exhaust.

I had the timing belt done yesterday and asked the guys to check out my exhaust. they said the cat is xforce (any good?) and that the exhaust is a 3inch mandral stainless but has twin pipes inside the mufflers which can be a bit of a restriction. probably not enough to worry about with what I am chasing (approx 200rwkw with the stock turbo)

The mods you plan are fine but note

1. You won't need a "full tune" which is just as well because there is no way of tuning your motor.

2. It won't go much faster until you up the boost to 10 -12 psi (cheap T as suggested - bypass the solenoid altogether don't stuff around with earthing it).

3. When you want to tune it a Nistune chip in a Z32 ecu or whatever it takes to retain your vct is the best and most cost efective way to go.

4. Spend some time reading on this website - there is a ton of information on how to make your car go and stop and handle better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...