Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey I've installed a TurboTech manual boost controller on my R34 GTT,

I thought I would be fine reading the pressure from the stock gauge coz I have a conversion table that shows kg/cm2 to psi.

But I'm not full clear on the gauge itself, here it is below:

post-72359-1275046297_thumb.jpg

where it says "+1" (circled in yellow) does that mean 1 or is it an estimate of roughly 1??

In psi that would be 14.22psi.

So I'm assuming the line halfway between "0" and "+1" is 0.5 which would be 7.11psi.

This would mean if I'm wanting 10 psi then I would want it at where the green line is, 0.70 kg/cm2 = 9.96psi.

Can someone please help me out here. The last thing I want is for it to be boosting at 15psi and ending up with bits of ceramic through my engine.

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322548-r34-gtt-stock-boost-gauge/
Share on other sites

dont rely on the readings of that gauge, they are not accurate enough, get a decent one

a friends r34 was boosting to that green line on the gauge u pointed out, installed a set of aftermarket gauges, it was actually boosting to 14psi.. lol

as said above, the gauges aren't exactly accurate. often the higher the boost the more inaccurate they get, and they often read lower than what the actual boost level is. my advice would be to go and buy a cheap boost gauge. even one of those drift ones for $50 will be much more reliable than the stock one.

True, damn that sucks I like the look of these.

Do you know if it's easy to install one where the stock gauge is at the moment in that cluster?

I really don't want a random boost gauge on my dash or anything, want to keep it as stock looking as possible.

True, damn that sucks I like the look of these.

Do you know if it's easy to install one where the stock gauge is at the moment in that cluster?

I really don't want a random boost gauge on my dash or anything, want to keep it as stock looking as possible.

You could get the nismo tripple gauge cluster to replace the standard unit.

Whilst the nismo unit reads up to 1.2 bar compared to the standard gauge, it's still very difficult to get an accurate reading from.

The map sensor itself thats the sender for the boost gauge itself is reasonable accurate (watching the results on an MFD screen you can get quite accurate results against a regular boost gauge) - it's just a shame that Nissan provided a gauge that it's impossible to determine the 'real' boost level you're receiving.

i upgraded my gauges because my boost one would sometimes not work and from what i found out when it was working it was not accurate at all so now my setup it this:

post-41669-1275096857_thumb.jpg

which i think gauges like this look better than the stock ones, even the cheaper brand gauges like calibre etc. look better in my opinion.

Whilst the nismo unit reads up to 1.2 bar compared to the standard gauge, it's still very difficult to get an accurate reading from.

The map sensor itself thats the sender for the boost gauge itself is reasonable accurate (watching the results on an MFD screen you can get quite accurate results against a regular boost gauge) - it's just a shame that Nissan provided a gauge that it's impossible to determine the 'real' boost level you're receiving.

Agreed. They are severely lacking in graduations on the dial.

i get that guages can become inaccurate over time due to wear and tear etc

but if you find vast inconsistencies between readings and two guages

check for obvious issues and problems

check for leaks, check for damaged vac lines (common with cheap ones) - heat & pressure makes them split

check where the OEM one is reading from vs your aftermarket one - are they reading from the same place?

i upgraded my gauges because my boost one would sometimes not work and from what i found out when it was working it was not accurate at all so now my setup it this:

post-41669-1275096857_thumb.jpg

which i think gauges like this look better than the stock ones, even the cheaper brand gauges like calibre etc. look better in my opinion.

Yes! mine sometimes doesn't work too!

Stock gauges are never accurate. It's just an indication. Anyway, who looks at the dials when driving hard? :)

yer I don't care bout lookin at it while driving. It's just to make sure I set the boost right, and to make sure it doesn't creep or anything. So only 60mm gauges can fit?

I like the look of the autometre ones but I don't think they make it in 60mm.

My factory one is bang on correct (or should I say dead on with the dyno pressure sensor) yet both would indicate my Apexi is telling big fat lies (And I truly think it is) 1.3 bar my arse.....everything else says 1.1 bar

  • 2 weeks later...
My factory one is bang on correct (or should I say dead on with the dyno pressure sensor) yet both would indicate my Apexi is telling big fat lies (And I truly think it is) 1.3 bar my arse.....everything else says 1.1 bar

Well my car must have heard me, the apexi (after 3 years) now correlates correctly with the factory one, who knows why it's been out for so long from brand new and why it changed overnight??????

Well my car must have heard me, the apexi (after 3 years) now correlates correctly with the factory one, who knows why it's been out for so long from brand new and why it changed overnight??????

Haha tru.

Hmm I think I might just stick with the stocko's for the moment, gotta buy new coils and spark plugs and few other stuff first.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...