Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^^

A little off topic..... The other night I managed to successfully fit R32 brakes under my stock 15" Ceffy rims. Dangerous clearance though, pics here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ceffy-t321677.html

Done this a few times over the years , not really hard to do

I had the same issue. Finally sussed it all out and went to bolt on one wheel.. not enough clearance inside my 17's for 324mm + r32 gtr sumi's + dogbones.. :(

Wow srs? my 324mm rotors with 33gtst calipers just fit inside 17" 34GTT rims.. they actually fit better than when running the 296mm rotors as with the smaller rotors I had to run a 3mm spacer to stop the rims binding up on the calipers. Pushing the caliper further out to suit the bigger rotor moved the caliper away from the bits of the rim that were clashing and didn't need the spacer anymore.

What did you do to solve the issue with the 4wd hub?

I've got some CAZ adapter brackets (different style to the ones on my 32, spaces straight out instead of changing the angle like the 32 ones) at home I need to try but they are for 12mm bolts and my wagon hubs are 14mm :blush:

Hey Bart, would there be any detrimental effects to rotating the caliper down 15 degrees? I haven't notived any increase in dive at all.

Edited by bubba
Wow srs? my 324mm rotors with 33gtst calipers just fit inside 17" 34GTT rims.. they actually fit better than when running the 296mm rotors as with the smaller rotors I had to run a 3mm spacer to stop the rims binding up on the calipers. Pushing the caliper further out to suit the bigger rotor moved the caliper away from the bits of the rim that were clashing and didn't need the spacer anymore.

What did you do to solve the issue with the 4wd hub?

I've got some CAZ adapter brackets (different style to the ones on my 32, spaces straight out instead of changing the angle like the 32 ones) at home I need to try but they are for 12mm bolts and my wagon hubs are 14mm :(

Hey Bart, would there be any detrimental effects to rotating the caliper down 15 degrees? I haven't notived any increase in dive at all.

Rim clearance comes down to design . 17" P1s cleared 355mm 6 piston billet PMU kit , 18" work emotions would not clear my 345mm 4 piston PMU kit :blush:

Rim clearance comes down to design . 17" P1s cleared 355mm 6 piston billet PMU kit , 18" work emotions would not clear my 345mm 4 piston PMU kit :thumbsup:

Yeah I know this, it was the little in-betweeny-bits between the main spokes of the 34GTT rims that were rubbing (as they dip back in a bit). Got plenty of room with the 18's now!

Anyway, answer my question about rotating the caliper down 15 degrees please >_<

Edited by bubba
Yeah I know this, it was the little in-betweeny-bits between the main spokes of the 34GTT rims that were rubbing (as they dip back in a bit). Got plenty of room with the 18's now!

Anyway, answer my question about rotating the caliper down 15 degrees please :thumbsup:

Done the same conversion on 32 sedan , only noticable difference was it stopped great >_<

Comes down to having crappy heavy knockoff rims.. The inner diameter of the rim is what interferes with the top of the caliper, the spokes clear fine.

The brackets I have rotate the calliper as well. Clearanced them with a file, not sure wether that is worlds-best-practice.. but I made it fit. Not using them atm, the adapters and a brand new pair of 324mm rda discs are just sitting on my shelf, waiting...

*offtopic. If you are getting that replacement mid section for the hks dragger exhaust made up - without muffler - I might be interested in one as well.. :thumbsup:

Edited by heller44
Comes down to having crappy heavy knockoff rims.. The inner diameter of the rim is what interferes with the top of the caliper, the spokes clear fine.

The brackets I have rotate the calliper as well. Clearanced them with a file, not sure wether that is worlds-best-practice.. but I made it fit. Not using them atm, the adapters and a brand new pair of 324mm rda discs are just sitting on my shelf, waiting...

Rotates them down about 15 degrees yeah?

No clashes with the lower ball joint? I wonder what the difference between 32 and 33 4wd hubs is.. maybe I should just knock some 14mm adapters up and give it a bash on the Stag. I swear last time I had a go something was hitting the lower ball joint and wouldn't bolt up correctly :thumbsup:

Comes down to having crappy heavy knockoff rims.. The inner diameter of the rim is what interferes with the top of the caliper, the spokes clear fine.

The brackets I have rotate the calliper as well. Clearanced them with a file, not sure wether that is worlds-best-practice.. but I made it fit. Not using them atm, the adapters and a brand new pair of 324mm rda discs are just sitting on my shelf, waiting...

*offtopic. If you are getting that replacement mid section for the hks dragger exhaust made up - without muffler - I might be interested in one as well.. :thumbsup:

So these 18" wheels are crappy knock offs , clearance is minimal when you can see upclose .

SDC10041.JPG

So these 18" wheels are crappy knock offs , clearance is minimal when you can see upclose .

I was talking about mine.. no-one else's.. :) so many variables, can never say for sure wether they will fit or not without trying it.

Edited by heller44

Speaking purely from personal experience - on the track (MC and drift) and from street, as well as having owned a few imports and working in mechanical shops both here and in sa

R32 GTR sumitomos are the same as 33 gtst sumitomos - exactly

R32 Gtst calipers are more than adequate for street and light track work

factory pads are ordinary

the most common problem I have seen with skyline calipers is that they are not blead properly, and often the brake fluid is not changed as often as it should be giving spongey brake feel

I would recommend that before you upgrade to 33 gtst calipers you buy some GOOD quality pads and bleed the brake system - the best way to do the bleed is to do a normal bleed first and then gravity bleed them (just crack the nipple, with a piece of clear line on them, and 99 chances out of 100, you will get small bubbles coming through) makes a massive difference to pedal feel

if you get decent pads first, you will not be out of pocket as the pads fit r32gtst and the 33 sumitomos calipers (I.e. They are the same size) - so if you decide you have to upgrade later, you will already have decent

pads to use!

For pads, project mu B-spec have great initial bite, very progressive, low dust and noise, good heat and fade resistance (rated 0-500) and work great from cold (yes, they are my favourite all rounder, from having tried many different pads)

basically, for under $500 you will have a killer setup that will pull the car up quickly, and put your passengers through the windshield if they aren't wearing their seat belt (and you want to of course :laugh: )

my 2c worth anyhow

Steve

why has nobody mentioned R34 GTT brakes? I plan on doing this conversion to my 32 in the next couple of months, only thing I am worried about is the calipers not fitting in my 17" P1's, but hopefully should be ok

Not alot around and when found they are pricey , plus they are not a direct bolt on . Need to bore out knuckles .

I have progressed from 33 gts-t to 33 gtr Brembos to 335mm 4 piston 4 pad Project MU kit and i can say is save up n buy big .. My first drive in the 32 at collie hillclimb was mind blowing with 6piston billet fronts n 4 piston billet 345mm rears , 250ks and jump on them and stopped before you needed too :banana:

People think they have good stuff untill they try better :D

Edited by Dsturbd
R32 Gtst calipers are more than adequate for street and light track work
If you want some hardcore killer brakes, jpc have some mental enless calipers and rotors for around 5k from memory

wilwood also do some great setups

alot better than GTR brembos out there

oops, that's right, were talking about a street setup, sorry

Interesting to see how people asume good brakes are just for track cars :thumbsup:

Our combos are not " hard core killer brakes " they are on street cars that are used for the odd track day . Weekends they get used to ferry kids to sports and the park :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...