Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys looking some information regarding Nistune, wanna tune My BNR with it and need some advice, how good is for under 500 hp at engine and what is the different with PFC?

i was looking for information and found nothing, only what i know at this time its cheap then pfc and also plays with ignition if there is pinging

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323615-how-good-is-nistune/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Agreed, it is very good, I have had a Dr Drift remap & have now changed over to the Nistune. No reflection on Sam(Dr Drift's) work at all as the only reason I changed over was due to Sam being in Melbourne & I am here in Queensland so retunes have been impossible when I upgraded bits & pieces.

The Nistune has enabled me to increase my power to a little over 200rwkw in my RB20DET. I am now at the limits of the Nistune & have been advised to go for something like a wolf v4 or v500 next to achieve the 230rwkw mark as it has more scope & smaller rpm tuning increments ie 150 rpm steps.

For an everyday tuning system Nistune is great. For more advanced tuning aftermarket ECU is better.

I have more than a few mates who have PFC. They all rave about it as a great system. But correct me if I am wrong but APEXi are gone. I am not bagging out PFC at all but I believe you are better to go something more current.

Stop in at your tuners & have a chat. Take with you all the plans you have for your ride & let him/her know what your eventual goal is. That will help them help you with the correct choice for your application

The Nistune has enabled me to increase my power to a little over 200rwkw in my RB20DET. I am now at the limits of the Nistune & have been advised to go for something like a wolf v4 or v500 next to achieve the 230rwkw mark as it has more scope & smaller rpm tuning increments ie 150 rpm steps.

who told you that? the same person whos going to profit from you changing?

nistune sounds pretty good, its essentially a bridge into the stock ecu

so you can adjust everything as needed and update it as you like

apexi still exist and are still producing products, but only some in limited volumes

and youll find ECR33 PFC is discontinued as NEC have run out of processor used FP74

you can still purchase other PFC's brand new

Power is no limit for the Nistune, I have done 600+rwhp GTRs that are much more drivable than with any other ECU ive seen.

If your Tuner is selling you an ECU because the Nistune is at its limit he is is dodgy.

PFC is not anywhere near as smart as a Nistune, Nistune even use functional knock control were a PFC only warn you.

I tune for a few Shops and Nistune is the most common ECU in Nissans now and its quite often replacing other Aftermarket ECUs inc PFC.

Perth car scene is now targeted by the cops and Emission tests are the norm with the Nistune making this test very simple even in some hardcore cars.

Edited by N I B

the pfc has a slightly better mapping system than the nistune (more cells) but the nistune is a better overall system in my opinion. sure it doesn't have a hand controller, but the cost of the unit plus tuning is generally less than the cost of just a pfc itself without tuning.

power wise it should produce the same power as any other unit as the power you make is purely based off the skill of the tuner rather than the ecu.

it should also handle a hell of a lot more power than 200kw on a r32. according to the nistune site the speedlab got 373kw out of a rb20 running a nistune.

The Nistune has enabled me to increase my power to a little over 200rwkw in my RB20DET. I am now at the limits of the Nistune & have been advised to go for something like a wolf v4 or v500 next to achieve the 230rwkw mark as it has more scope & smaller rpm tuning increments ie 150 rpm steps.

For an everyday tuning system Nistune is great. For more advanced tuning aftermarket ECU is better.

Have a read of the Nistune thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Nistune-t181930.html or some of the dyno result threads, there are plenty of cars making over 500rwhp and still not hitting the limits of the Nistune.

Coming to think of it, i had also heard they had gone out of business. All lies lol, i never really paid much attention to it

Edited by Hanaldo
Power is no limit for the Nistune, I have done 600+rwhp GTRs that are much more drivable than with any other ECU ive seen.

If your Tuner is selling you an ECU because the Nistune is at its limit he is is dodgy.

PFC is not anywhere near as smart as a Nistune, Nistune even use functional knock control were a PFC only warn you.

I tune for a few Shops and Nistune is the most common ECU in Nissans now and its quite often replacing other Aftermarket ECUs inc PFC.

Perth car scene is now targeted by the cops and Emission tests are the norm with the Nistune making this test very simple even in some hardcore cars.

Just wanted t double check and sau is the best place of that ;) bought the licensy cable and almost pay amount same as used pfc cost and doesnot wanted to make mistake

The Nistune has enabled me to increase my power to a little over 200rwkw in my RB20DET. I am now at the limits of the Nistune & have been advised to go for something like a wolf v4 or v500 next to achieve the 230rwkw mark as it has more scope & smaller rpm tuning increments ie 150 rpm steps.

did something happen between Nistune and Wolf? heard similar stories before as well

anyways, 290rwkw, Nistune - maps for both BP98 and E85 - nice piece of kit ;)

i cant see how nistune would be at its power limits

its just maps and numbers

the only time it would be phyiscal possible to be at a power limit, is when you max injectors

air

fuel

spark

make power, not mapping, so it doesnt sound right to me

i would not expect power gains changing ECUs

you would only see a power gain if its not tuned correctly

Agreed, it is very good, I have had a Dr Drift remap & have now changed over to the Nistune. No reflection on Sam(Dr Drift's) work at all as the only reason I changed over was due to Sam being in Melbourne & I am here in Queensland so retunes have been impossible when I upgraded bits & pieces.

The Nistune has enabled me to increase my power to a little over 200rwkw in my RB20DET. I am now at the limits of the Nistune & have been advised to go for something like a wolf v4 or v500 next to achieve the 230rwkw mark as it has more scope & smaller rpm tuning increments ie 150 rpm steps.

For an everyday tuning system Nistune is great. For more advanced tuning aftermarket ECU is better.

I have more than a few mates who have PFC. They all rave about it as a great system. But correct me if I am wrong but APEXi are gone. I am not bagging out PFC at all but I believe you are better to go something more current.

Stop in at your tuners & have a chat. Take with you all the plans you have for your ride & let him/her know what your eventual goal is. That will help them help you with the correct choice for your application

who tuned your nistune? many workshops i've spoken to all say PFC is good. only one workshop said PFC are good but they steer customers away from it and recommend nistune due to the fact they are cheaper, also does everything the PFC does

anyways, 290rwkw, Nistune - maps for both BP98 and E85 - nice piece of kit ;)

by 'maps for both BP98 and E85'; do you mean you can switch between them on the ECU from one day to the next, or the different tunes are on file at your tuner's shop?

really happy to hear good for it, anyway why it shouldnot work properly if standart ecu is remapable? Guiltoy will tune it and i will post up results, car will be boosted with GT35R

more a point to say it's versatile enough to handle to the two fuels, etc...

i've got the USB consult cable, but don't have a laptop. If i did, i'd put NIstune on it and load the two maps. But there is an E85 outlet 5mins from my place, and for a car that's barely driven, i don't have the to switch constantly.

i guess to answer your question, yes you could easily switch between the two with a laptop and Nistune (still have to drain the tank first though).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...