Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey.

Just to get a rough idea on value for money, id like to now what i shoud do

1) Get an R33 GTS keep it stock besides wheels, exhaust and maybe bodykit, and then once off p plates upgrade to a turbo skyline .

2) Get an R33 GTS with RB25DE and modify with good brakes, suspension, tyres etc(everything besides engine). As well as bodykit and exhaust. later onwards once off p's, turbo the engine or drop in a RB26DETT. Leaving me with great setup, But maybe costly??????????

3) Just buy an impreza, MR2, Civic etc. then buy GTR.........

Just want to know if my second option would be a good one and if it would be worth doing.

Thanks

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

either 1 or 3. option 2 will work out more expensive than the others, and if you upgrade everything on a gts to the spec of a gts-t, it will cost you nearly as much as buying the whole car, where as if you sell the gts and buy a gts-t you'll nearly be able to do it without having to spend more than a few hundred dollars, or not even having to spend anything at all.

In my opinion i would go with option 1, do intake and exhaust mods and leave it at that, buy some nice rims, good shocks and springs and a nice cd player and speakers. That will get you buy for a few years and you'll still have a car quicker than most other n/a cars.

Then save your money and see where you want to go from there, you might get over skylines or you might want to upgrade to a gtr.

either 1 or 3. option 2 will work out more expensive than the others, and if you upgrade everything on a gts to the spec of a gts-t, it will cost you nearly as much as buying the whole car, where as if you sell the gts and buy a gts-t you'll nearly be able to do it without having to spend more than a few hundred dollars, or not even having to spend anything at all.

agreed (as usual lol), you won't be able to modify a gts to be quicker than say a commodore from the lights. the stock car will be really nice and you may as well save and buy/make a monster when off your p's.

either buy an r33 rb25de gts or something else (mr2, mx5, mx6, sss pulsar, awd v6 magna, supra, 2 seat manual z32, good civic, celica, and a host of others), something that'll do you till you can buy something really fun. just my thoughts anyways

Yeh thanks,

The first one is turbo, although it is a bargain and im in Sydney.

The R34 is good value as well, nice paint job too.

I think R33's are what i should be looking at becaue they are cheaper. There also seems to be 100's of R33 gtst's on carsales and not as many N/A skylines. The turbo gtst are also the same price, which is really annoying knowing you will be paying the same $$$$ without the performance from a turbo.

i liked my clio 197

Adding my 2c a bit late but like xALmoN I also recommend you consider a Clio...

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=122B3A936F35

UPSIDES

- An '02 Clio sport can be had for under $10K

- 1035kg + 120kW = ~115kw per tonne

- 0-100 in about 7, 7.3 sec

- mine uses about 8.0 litres per hundred (premium unleaded) in city driving, up to 9.0 if driving hard or around 7.5 or less if babying it / highway driving

- front and side airbags

- immobiliser with computer chip in the key (good security)

- puts many heavier cars to shame on the track

- being so light, wear on bushes, tyres, brakes etc is lower than normal

- nice std features - automatic xenons, leather/alcantara, rain sensing wipers, climate control, ABS with EBD, some (like mine) had dealer-fit electric sunroof

- still rides well, so is not exhausting to drive

- bit of a sleeper, but also looks nice and squat on the road

- good support through online forums like ozrenaultsport (http://www.ozrenaultsport.com/)

- so much fun!

DOWNSIDES

- People who know nothing about cars will think it's a girls car

- French build quality

- Driving position a little funny, but you get used to it...

- Look for gearbox oil leaks, a common weak point on the car

Good luck with the purchase! :)

I own the R33 GTS. I love the car, but there are a couple things you need to be aware of.

65L tank means a full tank could set you back $87.1 (premium @ $1.34), but because you don't fill your tank when it's completely empty, a more realistic price is around $75.

A full tank of petrol can last you a week if you baby it, but I've personally budgeted for two refuels a week.

As a guide, for the past week I have been driving between 1500RPM and 3000RPM, never really hitting over 3000RPM and the fuel has lasted me a good week. I've gotten 500KM out of a tank once, but I drove out to Penrith and back two times in four days, and the petrol was gone at the end of it.

Third party, fire and theft cost me $600-or-so through JustCar, and was a one-off fee I paid for 12 months insurance.

If you can afford to pay for the car, then I would love to see another R33 owner (as long as you didn't ruin the car with tasteless mods). But if you're going by your wishlist without taking into account models etc. my friends ford falcon will smoke any stock R33 GTS and it's probably cost him around $6k all up? That's all well and good, but I love my car :)

You could also put $10k into a Hyundai Excel build, and that will give you a 900KG car with an Evo engine in it.

Smart cars are also really good. I dare say you would be checked for a turbo, so the 1.3L turbo could be good (not sure on how fast they are though). That's convertible too.

I drove an RX7 once, the older one, it had a full leather interior with the security code to start the ignition. Only problem is they are a lot of maintenance (so I hear). You can get nice ones under $10k, and they're really sporty beasts.

If you don't care about RWD, there are a few nice Hondas out there, like the prelude. The one with the triangular tail lights are prone to rust and other problems, but i hear the generation after it are quite reliable. They're putting a decent KWage out of it, also. Comparable to the GTS.

Iunno, it's your taste mate. I bought the GTS because I love skylines, and it was the best kept one I could find.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...