Stagea Walbro Pump Fitting Guide

[DeanR33]

Apologies if this has been covered before, I did a search and couldn't find anything.

As part of my on going mods and looking to the future I got myself a Walbro 255LPH fuel pump from Conceptua Tuning here in the UK.

As usual it was shipped to my and arrived in less than 24 hours !

I've just fitted the fuel pump, no problems, dead easy actually.

Lift up and remove centre load floor area covers.

Remove right hand floor cover, there are two M6 nuts and one M6 bolt below the lashing eye.

Remove four M6 bolts and lift off fuel pump cover, be careful with regard to the connectors underneath. Pic2

Disconnect two multi plugs on top of tank unit and put cover and wiring to one side.Pic3

Clean any dirt or dust from the top of the tank unit to prevent it falling in the tank.

Start engine and run until it stops to de-pressurise fuel lines.

Mark and note orientation of fuel lines, remove. Have rags ready to catch fuel spillage.

Unscrew large plastic locking ring, it's tight, I use a piece of wood and knock ring round with hammer until loose then unscrew remainder by hand. Beware of sharp edges on metal floor panel.

Carefully lift tank unit slightly use caution to avoid damaging the gauge sender unit.

Disconnect wiring multi plug beneath sender, note two fuel pipes orientation and disconnect. Lift out tank unit. Pic4

The fuel pump is located in a plastic housing in the bottom of the tank, the lid of the housing has three clips. Squeeze the clips located at the left,front right and rear right (looking down into the tank from the rear of the car) lift off the cover and put aside. Pics5,6 and 7

Lift out the fuel pump to just above the top of the tank, the return fuel pipe prevents complete removal from the car at this point. Pic8

Remove the fuel pipe from the pump and disconnect the wiring multi plug, the fuel pump can now be completely removed.

Fit the sock supplied onto the new fuel pump and fit the clip to prevent it falling off the pump. Pic 9

Re-connect the original wiring multi plug to the new fuel pump. Re-fit the pipe to the pump, it has a curve in it, this must be orientated so that the pipe curves straight upwards or the wiring is pulled out of position and won't reach to re-connect to the underside of the tank unit.

Fit the pump into the housing in the bottom of the tank, the pump fits directly into the original mounting points and refit the cover ensuring that the clips snap into place correctly

Place the tank unit back into the top of the tank and re-connect the two fuel pipes in the correct orientation and pump wiring multi plug to the underside of the tank unit.

Refit the tank unit using the seal and locking ring, refit the fuel pipes in the correct orientation and tighten the clips.

Re-connect the pump and sender multi plugs but leave the cover loose.

Turn the ignition on and listen for the pump priming for a few seconds, turn the ignition off and on again two or three times to ensure the pump has primed properly, now start the engine and check for leaks on the top of the tank unit.

If all is well, stop the engine and refit the tank unit cover and floor covers. Test drive.

Tools required. 10mm socket and ratchet, Screwdrivers, Pliers, Hammer and piece of wood, Rags

Time required 60-90 minutes.

The clips,hose,wiring sleeve and mounting in the kit are not required.

Dean

[KiwiRS4T]

Good tutorial. As the Walbro was smaller than the stocker on my S1 I wrapped it in a sleeve and cable tied it to the cradle.

A good idea to use the opportunity to directly wire the pump to get full 13.5v (there are a couple of tutorials on this in the skyline section).

One question that I have been meaning to ask (being computer inadequate):

How do you get full sized ( or at least 96% full sized) photos into your post? I only seem to get the option of small thumbnails!

[DeanR33]

Good tutorial. As the Walbro was smaller than the stocker on my S1 I wrapped it in a sleeve and cable tied it to the cradle.

A good idea to use the opportunity to directly wire the pump to get full 13.5v (there are a couple of tutorials on this in the skyline section).

One question that I have been meaning to ask (being computer inadequate):

How do you get full sized ( or at least 96% full sized) photos into your post? I only seem to get the option of small thumbnails!

Hmm, is the fuel pump mounting set up different on a Series 1 then, more like a Skyline one ? The Walbro I used was more or less the same size as the original.

I put my photos in a photobucket account and just copy and paste the links from the photobucket page into my post.

[KiwiRS4T]

Yes the S1 cradle looks a bit different to yours and the pump is quite a lot bigger in diameter than the Walbro.

Looks like I'll have to sus out photobucket - thanks.

[chef_stagea]

DeAn it's vital that you do the 13.8v mod as ur stag drops voltage at idol for a quieter drive!

Your walbro will hit the shit with out the correct current. Ssearch fuel pump dramas on here, I did mine last week

[scotty nm35]

I don't think the idle voltage drop would be an issue as you wont need much flow there anyway, the issue is the voltage the pump sees at wot and how much flow your engine requires. I have had no issue with mine, I installed a Tomei R33 gtr pump without the wiring mod and it supplies more than enough flow. When the time comes I may have to bump up the voltage but I would prefer not to have the pump whine in the background.

[QWK32]

Yeah that may the the case with a tomei pump Scott, but the walbro pump can fail if not supplied a constant 13ish volts. It's probably the main reason for walbro pump failure.

[pipster11]

most aftermarket pumps are designed for normal battery voltage rages (11.5-14.5ish) and nissan use the variable voltage with a pump designed to take it obviously

this low voltage on the aftermarket pumps can burn out the motor inside and cause it to fail prematurely because they are just not designed to run off ~10V unlike the stock one

[Duncan]

Yeah that may the the case with a tomei pump Scott, but the walbro pump can fail if not supplied a constant 13ish volts. It's probably the main reason for walbro pump failure.

most aftermarket pumps are designed for normal battery voltage rages (11.5-14.5ish) and nissan use the variable voltage with a pump designed to take it obviously

this low voltage on the aftermarket pumps can burn out the motor inside and cause it to fail prematurely because they are just not designed to run off ~10V unlike the stock one

Interesting. I've had a walbro in mine for 3 years with the standard wiring and its working fine.

[pipster11]

walbro's must be better with the low voltages

i had a bosch 040 in my 32 without the wiring mod and it was fine

for the cost of a relay and some wire, the benefit outweighs the risk

[DeanR33]

walbro's must be better with the low voltages

i had a bosch 040 in my 32 without the wiring mod and it was fine

for the cost of a relay and some wire, the benefit outweighs the risk

I had considered doing the wiring mod, but I wasn't sure if it's really necessary, and I'm still not sure from reading the various posts !

But thanks for the advice.

[horrace]

I'm keen to do the mod if I knew anything about wiring, I look At the tutorial and it confuses th shit out of me!

[QWK32]

Interesting. I've had a walbro in mine for 3 years with the standard wiring and its working fine.

i just prefer to be safe duncan, i don't want the pump dying on me while i'm out driving around. i've had a few people tell me, and i even looked into the pumps specs myself, that walbro recommends a voltage supply up around 13v, and i know that the stock FPCM steps that voltage down during some conditions.

i've herd a few reports and even read of them on these forums about walbro pumps failing, and others that have run them for years without problem, the main difference between their setups seems to be the constant fuel pump feed. i guess we cant really say that if you don't give the pump a constant voltage supply it will definitely fail, your car is proof of that. its just got to be a bit better for the pump if its not seeing voltage fluctuations, which may be the cause of failure.

[Duncan]

yeah, and I'm not saying its perfect either...just that I've got one pump that hasn't had trouble...its no guarantee it won't fail tomorrow....or never

[pipster11]

I'm keen to do the mod if I knew anything about wiring, I look At the tutorial and it confuses th shit out of me!

1 wire runs from the battery (fused near the battery ideally)

1 wire bolts to the chassis/bodywork as a ground

you use the old fuel pump +'ve to activate the relay

1 wire runs from the main feed on the relay to the +'ve on the fuel pump

then the pump needs grounding to the chasis

done

[horrace]

had a crack at this today, but im gonna wait another couple of days for the fuel level to go down to make it easier. I have a S1 and my pump cradle was different and I couldn't figure out how to get it out because it was deep in petrol and hard to see.

[GroceryZilla]

had a crack at this today, but im gonna wait another couple of days for the fuel level to go down to make it easier. I have a S1 and my pump cradle was different and I couldn't figure out how to get it out because it was deep in petrol and hard to see.

(Sorry about posting on an old post)

I'm in the same boat mate, no idea how to get the cradle open.

Anyone in Melbourne know how to install a walbro 255 on an s1 stag?

[KiwiRS4T]

(Sorry about posting on an old post)

I'm in the same boat mate, no idea how to get the cradle open.

Anyone in Melbourne know how to install a walbro 255 on an s1 stag?

Been a while ...but it just clips in -possibly slide it forward as you give it a yank. Walbro is smaller than the stocker so you need to pack it out and/or clip it to the cradle.

Just found a pic of the S1 cradle:

http://run-it-hard.com/2012/10/tying-loose-ends/