Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lol no i just looked for that photo now

i got the idea to ziptie my front bar when i smashed it and CBF paying to fix it as it will just smash again

wheels are 10in, +20 offset... could even take some spacers too, gotta love GTR guards

the hella flush boys would not approve of my wheel/guard clearance but much more practical at this height... front lip on GTR is impossible not to damage if car is very low and it gets driven everyday

i love the LMs, bought myself a set of 17x9 +20 from japan

if you are thinking of lower offset just unbolt the centers and slot them in from behind the wheel

that gives you a bit more lip, a chance to polish the lip properly while the faces are off and lowers the offset by approx 8 to 12mm

i'm going to be doing that to my wheels when they come from japan in 2-3 months

front lip on GTR is impossible not to damage if car is very low and it gets driven everyday

i hear that.

awesome looking car man. your mate did great work. if only more "professional" detailers were this good.

Hey there guys, I detailed Nick's car, firstly Nick. Thanks. It was a pleasure to work on, also thanks need to go to Zolts for lending a hand.

Those LM's are a beautiful wheel and the PWC does a fantastic job so very easy, it is quite simply THE BEST wheel cleaner on the market IMO.

I kid you not, spray on leave to dwell then high pressure hose off.

It is in stunning condition for a car of it's age a credit to Nick and it's previous owner.

In all honesty I could have spent another 4 or 5 hours on the car and it would have come up better but time did not allow. I really would have liked to remove the wheels and clean them inside and out as well as tidy up the wheel wells, spend some more time removing old crusty polish/wax from the seals and panel gaps, it was really caked in there. Nick if you want it done again sometime down the track I'll get you to leave it with me for a week-end and I can go to town on it!!

For those after a run down and products here goes;

Wash (Nick kindly washed it for me)

Wheels with Final Inspection (F.I.) Power Wheel Cleaner (PWC)

Clay Magic claybar and lubricant (the most important step)

1 pass with Menzerna Final Finish on F.I. black pad with Festool Rotex I had expected to do 2 passes but the paint responded very well to the one pass (again time was an issue)

50/50 Isopropyl Alchohol/distilled water wipe down to remove polish residue and prep paint for sealant.

1 layer of F.I. Seal synthetic sealant which should give 3 months protection, possibly longer given the car is garaged 90% of the time.

Seal needs to be applied the left 12 to 15 minutes to cure then wiped down with a damp microfibre cloth then with a dry microfibre.

Seal is a great product, so slick as Nick said you really have to feel how silky it is. Sure the preperation is 95% of the finish but Seal just makes all the hard work on the machine worthwhile.

Headlights were polished with Final Finish on black pad, they had some light haze but certainly not bad, just gives them a crisper finish. I certainly could have done 2 stage polish and they would have come up better again with some Z14.

Nothing but the best Aquatouch Microfibre cloths touched the car, I have a bag of 50 ish used ones I have to wash!!

For those asking if I can do thier cars, yes I can, although I have 4 in waiting ATM, IS200, E46 M3, F6 and a C63. I do this as a hobby and really enjoy it, a great stress relief from a fairly demading office work life.

If you want to PM questions please do (although might take me a few days to reply so be kind!!), if there is demand I can post up some pics of some other cars I have done in the past.

Cheers

Daz.

OMFG I miss this car!

I kept it dry, polished and wrapped up in cotton wool. It is really a credit to Damian (ph1) from Queensland who built it! It's precisely what a tuned GT-R should be in my opinion, built before the ridiculous hoon focused bullshit police state we currently live in. Lumpy cams, 4" exhaust, brutal power delivery, big flames out the exhaust, and plenty of 'giggle factor'.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/23433918@N05/...57624097250579/

Nice work guys, looks hot!

Al: I felt so bad when I ran into you, your car was so clean... mine looked like ass

Nathan: Yep you kept it in A1 condition... I haven't changed a thing... when Benno rebuilt it I asked him to keep it all the same... even though I think he would have liked to make it a bit more 'street' friendly... the only thing that I'm hanging to change is the rear spring rate, its waaay too hard... racepace secret squirrel spec revalve on the teins coming soon

I've been pulled over a few times but no trouble, I drive it daily as well... I think a clean driving record and the fact I'm a bit older helps

the plan was always to do motorsport in it but my lovely wife wants me to get a separate car as track hack... she says its too 'nice' to put backwards through a tyrewall and I think she's probably right

i love the LMs, bought myself a set of 17x9 +20 from japan

if you are thinking of lower offset just unbolt the centers and slot them in from behind the wheel

that gives you a bit more lip, a chance to polish the lip properly while the faces are off and lowers the offset by approx 8 to 12mm

i'm going to be doing that to my wheels when they come from japan in 2-3 months

that's actually a really good idea, cheers!

Al: I felt so bad when I ran into you, your car was so clean... mine looked like ass

Nathan: Yep you kept it in A1 condition... I haven't changed a thing... when Benno rebuilt it I asked him to keep it all the same... even though I think he would have liked to make it a bit more 'street' friendly... the only thing that I'm hanging to change is the rear spring rate, its waaay too hard... racepace secret squirrel spec revalve on the teins coming soon

I've been pulled over a few times but no trouble, I drive it daily as well... I think a clean driving record and the fact I'm a bit older helps

the plan was always to do motorsport in it but my lovely wife wants me to get a separate car as track hack... she says its too 'nice' to put backwards through a tyrewall and I think she's probably right

I agree the rear does bounce around a bit, series 3 xenons, front lip and maybe bar slots would be good too.

Hey there guys, I detailed Nick's car, firstly Nick. Thanks. It was a pleasure to work on, also thanks need to go to Zolts for lending a hand.

Those LM's are a beautiful wheel and the PWC does a fantastic job so very easy, it is quite simply THE BEST wheel cleaner on the market IMO.

I kid you not, spray on leave to dwell then high pressure hose off.

It is in stunning condition for a car of it's age a credit to Nick and it's previous owner.

In all honesty I could have spent another 4 or 5 hours on the car and it would have come up better but time did not allow. I really would have liked to remove the wheels and clean them inside and out as well as tidy up the wheel wells, spend some more time removing old crusty polish/wax from the seals and panel gaps, it was really caked in there. Nick if you want it done again sometime down the track I'll get you to leave it with me for a week-end and I can go to town on it!!

For those after a run down and products here goes;

Wash (Nick kindly washed it for me)

Wheels with Final Inspection (F.I.) Power Wheel Cleaner (PWC)

Clay Magic claybar and lubricant (the most important step)

1 pass with Menzerna Final Finish on F.I. black pad with Festool Rotex I had expected to do 2 passes but the paint responded very well to the one pass (again time was an issue)

50/50 Isopropyl Alchohol/distilled water wipe down to remove polish residue and prep paint for sealant.

1 layer of F.I. Seal synthetic sealant which should give 3 months protection, possibly longer given the car is garaged 90% of the time.

Seal needs to be applied the left 12 to 15 minutes to cure then wiped down with a damp microfibre cloth then with a dry microfibre.

Seal is a great product, so slick as Nick said you really have to feel how silky it is. Sure the preperation is 95% of the finish but Seal just makes all the hard work on the machine worthwhile.

Headlights were polished with Final Finish on black pad, they had some light haze but certainly not bad, just gives them a crisper finish. I certainly could have done 2 stage polish and they would have come up better again with some Z14.

Nothing but the best Aquatouch Microfibre cloths touched the car, I have a bag of 50 ish used ones I have to wash!!

For those asking if I can do thier cars, yes I can, although I have 4 in waiting ATM, IS200, E46 M3, F6 and a C63. I do this as a hobby and really enjoy it, a great stress relief from a fairly demading office work life.

If you want to PM questions please do (although might take me a few days to reply so be kind!!), if there is demand I can post up some pics of some other cars I have done in the past.

Cheers

Daz.

what orbital buff did you use? how much do they cost?

what would you recommend on a budget?

killer job Daz! Great gloss from the silver!

Surprised it only need FF on black... had to hit mine with IP on Orange, followed by FF on black and i try and keep good care of the paint :)

Seal is a fantasic product, i've got 3 layers on at the moment. I'll most likely be down at the RE night if anyone wants to see in the flesh in case Nick's car isn't there.

You got much Menz left? Damian's got CAP medium out now and ultra fine is coming soon, meant to be better than Menz.

what orbital buff did you use? how much do they cost?

what would you recommend on a budget?

given Daz isn't on here much..

Festool Rotex150 - great piece of kit (i actually borrowed Daz's festool of him to finish my car with the recent detail)

~$800, rough price.

It's a forced rotation machine so a bit more tricky.

I would highly recommend the Bosch GEX150T, arugably the same running gear as the Festool but about half the price.

Should be getting one this week sometime.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...