Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could you have worded this ^^^ better?

You might have to ask for PMs - otherwise, recommendations are going to pronounce that 'A' is better than 'B'.

If you're in a hurry, the 'Search' button will reveal all...

HMM that says it all, Other then taking forever to do a job and being almost impossible to contact, Does he tune good! in anyones experience, I dont know if its just coensidence but everytime i go to him and i get something adjusted something else annoys me for example warm starts now hesitate to reach normal idle 3-5secs, lots of black smoke on boost = very rich, low kms from a whole tank = very rich also. Done my gearbox os giken 5 speed set with him he says the gearbox guy changed 4 synchros now i dont know if they are brand new synchros or what he says he wants to have a feel of it next time i go, But anyways SOMETIMES my gears feel somewhat notchy other times its normal isnt it supposed to feel like a brand new car 24/7 ? Im getting sick of taking my car back and forth!!

your better of tuning a r32 in rwd as the 4wd is not consistant and plays up in the lower throttle tuning, insight have 4wd dyno and are at arndell park ( near eastern creek )

Really hmm never heard that... How are insight? any bad news from them hows the staff etc

XCALBA You done a 11.3 1/4 on 290rwkw Damm nice run.. whats the trick lol?

Edited by GTRAAH
  • Like 1
Really hmm never heard that... How are insight? any bad news from them hows the staff etc

XCALBA You done a 11.3 1/4 on 290rwkw Damm nice run.. whats the trick lol?

scott and the guys are good they are doing a lot of race cars now one of which is tiltons time attack evo,after he retuned my car after someone else ( a big name tuning shop who charged me a puck load to have my car on the dyno for less than 1 hour for a new computer ) it drives like a factory car and gets about 550km a tank gd, trick is cam gears and 6500 rpm shifting and no big burn out to over heat turbos.

Have a look at the semi slicks he was running at WSID lolz!....seriously he had semis on!! Thats part of the trick!

was i i thought it was on bridgestone re001 adrenalins, but it might have been advan 048 it was 3 years ago and either way they where 265/35/18s and where what i was using as everday street tyres and not a purpose built drag tyre like m/t e/ts or toyo tqs

was i i thought it was on bridgestone re001 adrenalins, but it might have been advan 048 it was 3 years ago and either way they where 265/35/18s and where what i was using as everday street tyres and not a purpose built drag tyre like m/t e/ts or toyo tqs

That's what I'm getting at, the fact you ran a bloody good time since they weren't mickey T's etc!! :thumbsup:

HMM that says it all, Other then taking forever to do a job and being almost impossible to contact, Does he tune good! in anyones experience, I dont know if its just coensidence but everytime i go to him and i get something adjusted something else annoys me for example warm starts now hesitate to reach normal idle 3-5secs, lots of black smoke on boost = very rich, low kms from a whole tank = very rich also. Done my gearbox os giken 5 speed set with him he says the gearbox guy changed 4 synchros now i dont know if they are brand new synchros or what he says he wants to have a feel of it next time i go, But anyways SOMETIMES my gears feel somewhat notchy other times its normal isnt it supposed to feel like a brand new car 24/7 ? Im getting sick of taking my car back and forth!!

thats exactly what my car did after hills. If I am driving at say 4,000 rpm and then push the clutch in and watch the rev drop all the way to zero and then stall. It was a pfc tune too. Sometimes it wouldn't stall, it would barely catch it before zero and then cough up a big ball of black smoke. One thing was ok was on throttle the car ran very well. Nice smooth boost and good torque. I got 260awkw at 12psi boost. Not sure what it would make on 20psi, maybe 280?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
    • They are in fact just nozzles. They are there only to produce a spray pattern and limit flow. The injector itself is what I use to control flow to the 7x nozzles. My old system had no injector and only PWM the pump. This lead to a lot of inconsistencies, and poor atomization at low pressure when the pump was ramping up. 
×
×
  • Create New...