Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At the end of day mate it is personal preference and or budget.Ive been thru 3 dif big name brands over the years.I had a cusco 1.5way (tight as) in my old 180 when i got it then when that went i put in a nismo 2way i got 4 a gr8 price and that was fine and not much noisier at all then the cusco (when u go in2 shop,carparks etc u just clutch it if u dnt want attention an the associated noise frm lsds).I now have a kaaz 2way in my 32 and its fine and doesnt really clunk or make that much noise,tho i have heard of sum lsds 1st hand that sound farked but dunno wat they r..if u keep the maintenence up on em n oil etc they can last a long time..

At the end of day mate it is personal preference and or budget.Ive been thru 3 dif big name brands over the years.I had a cusco 1.5way (tight as) in my old 180 when i got it then when that went i put in a nismo 2way i got 4 a gr8 price and that was fine and not much noisier at all then the cusco (when u go in2 shop,carparks etc u just clutch it if u dnt want attention an the associated noise frm lsds).I now have a kaaz 2way in my 32 and its fine and doesnt really clunk or make that much noise,tho i have heard of sum lsds 1st hand that sound farked but dunno wat they r..if u keep the maintenence up on em n oil etc they can last a long time..

Hey man

Thanks for the information. Hopefully this diff will be fine and i will get use to the "Style" of driving as some people say has to change.

With the diff what oil do you use? I was thinking of using a motul around the 80w-140.

Cheers

Edited by niran
  • 2 months later...

Another option is to put a GTR rear end in, roughly the same price as a center but you get the larger axles/half shafts, I did this in my GTS-T R33 and Im very happy with the results, you cannot notice the difference of it on the street to the stock one (no cluncks or skids on tight corners) but on the track it hooks up well and is very predictable.

Another option is to put a GTR rear end in, roughly the same price as a center but you get the larger axles/half shafts, I did this in my GTS-T R33 and Im very happy with the results, you cannot notice the difference of it on the street to the stock one (no cluncks or skids on tight corners) but on the track it hooks up well and is very predictable.

+1, that's what I have in my track car :( We shimmed it up, so it's tighter :D

  • 6 years later...

Resurrecting  an old thread, I believe there are different settings you can use with the Nismo 2-way and  I was wondering if anyone has a Nismo 2-way LSD in their car on the softest setting.

When I bought my car I had some old paperwork and one from Advan Performance back in 2009 stating the car had a Nismo 2-way LSD, I know most the other parts are there as you could see them.

But there is no clunking or any other noises and drives great in any conditions and slow speed ?

Is there any way to tell without pulling the diff apart ?

Resurrecting  an old thread, I believe there are different settings you can use with the Nismo 2-way and  I was wondering if anyone has a Nismo 2-way LSD in their car on the softest setting.
When I bought my car I had some old paperwork and one from Advan Performance back in 2009 stating the car had a Nismo 2-way LSD, I know most the other parts are there as you could see them.
But there is no clunking or any other noises and drives great in any conditions and slow speed ?
Is there any way to tell without pulling the diff apart ?

The Nismo GT Lsd is not adjustable, however the GT Lsd Pro is. Both are available in 1.5 and 2-way.

If you have no clunking or skipping around tight bends especially when cold I'd say it's unlikely that you have a mechanical diff ;)
5 hours ago, Nismo 3.2ish said:

thanks for your info, I will see if my mechanic up here and check it out, it is annoying having paper work that says there is a Nismo 2-way LSD and everything points to it not being a 2-way :(

Jack up the rear and try the spin test first (simplified, I hope I get this right) – with gearbox in neutral: 

  • Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the opposite way -> open diff or VLSD
  • Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the same way -> locked/mechanical LSD

Some more info on diff identification: http://www.240sx.org/faq/articles/limited_slip_differential.htm

1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

Jack up the rear and try the spin test first (simplified, I hope I get this right) – with gearbox in neutral: 

  • Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the opposite way -> open diff or VLSD
  • Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the same way -> locked/mechanical LSD

Some more info on diff identification: http://www.240sx.org/faq/articles/limited_slip_differential.htm

Thanks mate, I have the car going in to change all of the bushes and have new rear camber arms fitted, While its up I will get the mechanic to do it with me.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...