Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey I think it might be time to sell the line and go for a better project and the 1st thing that comes to mind is a 180 with a rb26 for the main reason of it shouldn’t be that expensive..

Pick up an old 180 ca18 for around 7-8k?

A 32 gtr half cut should be around the 6k?

1st question is can I import a slightly modded 180?

Like I want a full cage, nice tight locked diff and maybe some after market suspension and a few gauges even?

2nd question is can I use a rb26 gearbox on a rwd car? Or do I need a box off a rb25? Or if any1 else has any ideas id love to hear them

3rd question is what other parts would I need?

fuel pump? Im sure theres heaps more

And last question is what sorta brake upgrade could I go for?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32440-rb26-in-a-180-need-answers/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey,

you can get a 180CA18DET for cheap around australia ,

RB26DETT you can get one out of a 33GTR with the box etc etc.

im not to sure about the 25tgearbox you will need more information on that.

you will need to get the car engineerd for dropping the a rb26dett inside .

also you will need r33 gtr brakes and some goot suspension and good rubber. the car will loose lots of traction dont forget. maybe itll requite 255's or some wider rear gaurds.

its alli can think of.

  PranK said:
oh man - such a sweeeeet project!!  

 

i wanna drop a 26 into a ceffy.

Buy a Ceffy with a 26 pre-installed!

These sorts of conversions make me laugh.

It seems the legendary 26 ends up landing in everything... Supras, S13's, Z32's.

I think it needs to go into a Micra!

There's some guys here with 26's in r31/r32/r33's. I hope them chime in.

T.

Out of all the engines you could drop into a 180sx, the RB26 conversion would be the MOST expensive. Stick with the SR20 or even the underrated CA18 – the money you’d save could power up either of those engines quite nicely. I’d also say that the RB26DETT is significantly heavier than any nissan four, and that having one sitting in the engine bay of your 180sx would send the weight distribution down the toilet somewhat.

unless u want a 10sec Drag car, else it's meaningless to drop a rb26 into a 180, which fxxk the balance up. For the $$ u spend, u could get a sr20 180 with HKS/tomei 2.2kit and a

HKS GT-RS turbo and makes it a very good all round 11 sec car.

u can't import a modded car now, but a lot of importer are happy to strip the car to standard and put every back after compliance. u have to pay for labour of course.

u might need a gts-t gearbox if u drop the RB26 in as GTR gear box is 4wd.

at least set of gts-t/gtr brake or even some aftermaket brake.

prepare to run top of the range sport tyre everyday, even R compound tyre.

yeah the car would only be used as a daily driver, drift and drag..

and i got a price from a known performace workshop and they said a drive in and drive away rb26 conversion for around the $8k

i was thinking.. the closer to standard rb26 would last longer than a modded sr20

  HKSgtst said:
you can't fit an RB25det g/box to an RB26dett ..  

you can however lock the g/box so that it'll run 2wd.

Considering that all RB blocks have the same bellhousing bolts you can run an RB20 RWD gearbox behind an RB26 if you wanted to.

It would be easier to run the ECR33 or Z32 gearbox (VG30 boxes fit, but have a shorter length to the shifter and a couple of minor things).

A more labour intensive approach is to use an RB26 box and disconnect the 4wd mechanism. But then you have a very very heavy gearbox, and might find yourself running out of mates when you need to change it.

this is a bloody heavy engine for drift work u would find it much harder to control the car cause of the weight in the front end pure momentum would send u off the track or close to it. but also like mines meantioned with the 26 in a rwd car u would find the wheels wont fully grip till like 3rd gear and still get heavy wheel spin in 2nd gear

  chaos said:
this is a bloody heavy engine for drift work u would find it much harder to control the car cause of the weight in the front end pure momentum would send u off the track or close to it. but also like mines meantioned with the 26 in a rwd car u would find the wheels wont fully grip till like 3rd gear and still get heavy wheel spin in 2nd gear

Heavier engine up front can be fixed with susp tuning, and as for too much power for a rwd chassis, again its all in the susp setup.

Drift cars are set up so they dont get traction. I also think a 250rwkw RB26 is going to be easier to control then a 250rwkw SR20 simply due to the power delivery being a lot more linear.

dude - i was going to do this project and have all the info that needed for conversion - the thing that stopped me was that fact that i waited 4 months for a RB26 and when i bought there was a prob with so i said fk this - not waiting another 4 months rb26 so now i'm rb25.

your best to go with RB25DET box - unless ur fkn good and can change the internals of the RB26 box to complfor your car. ur going to have to modify the sump and tailshaft , use the R33 crossmember as the engine will sit lower. and what eva ya need to know post it and i'll see if i can answer it

cheers

BRAD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...