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oh no there is a way....get everything out of the way heater hoses, coil pack loom, vacuum hoses i mean everything. then you can get a hand in there and a screw driver and you can fiddle around with it....

also you can loosen the engine mounts loosen not take off. then jack the engine on a tilt to give you more room.

it is very fiddly and complicated and so frustrating but it can be done...

its basically a real prick of a position to get to, in between the firewall and the rear of the motor. persistence is your friend. i ended up taking my bonnet off to get over the area more ergonomically if i remember right, i did it ages ago...

but why would those lines "keep cracking". I've never broken one in the race car (broken lots of other stuff!).

do you have the turbo/sump pipe brackets on? Are the manifolds OK (not cracked)?

some other problem here

Not sure which Turbo/sump bracket you mean but as far as i can tell everything else is fine..just pulled it all off to replace cracked manifold studs thought id replace the whole line while it was apart

The original line has been cut with the flame proof rubber hose put in place, the hose but gets dry and hot and eventually cracks the outer tubing near the turbo ex housing

Was just wondering how hard it was to change, appears its very hard..Maybe i should try run the hose away from the turbo more so it doesnt get so hot..If you guys arent having problems it must be my setup, I'll drop by pirtek maybe see what hose they have

Cheap way is just to cut off the metal line and replace the mid section with abit of good rubber hose and clamps.

will heater hose do or is there a particular hose better suited to something so close to the turbo and manifold?

but why would those lines "keep cracking". I've never broken one in the race car (broken lots of other stuff!).

do you have the turbo/sump pipe brackets on? Are the manifolds OK (not cracked)?

some other problem here

the on mine that has split (im assuming its the same one) comes from the manifold to the turbo, when i changed my turbo i dont remember there being a sump bracket there, mine has split the rubber hose, its only about 3 or 4" long and goes around the rear drivers side corner of the block.

Helped a mate replace this hose on his car after it burst one night on the dyno, it connects to the head flange water return under the plenum. With the plenum off its a pretty straight forward job. Getting the plenum off is the bit that tests the patience. There is a barbed fitting under there that a -6 hose fits, run this to the metal block that has the vacuum line attached also. Cut the pipe off and drill and tap the rear of it to accept a barbed fitting and attach the -6 hose.

good luck

EDIT: this was on a GTR...for GTS-t just plug the line and run it to the radiator outlet neck on the engine. That way can show off your bit of bling braided hose!

Edited by Supa Steve

Ok found it..didnt have to take the bonnet of or anything, did have cam covers and aac out which helped...helped cut my hands on the sharp edges of the head that is :D , but with some perseverance got that prick of a bolt out, have just run gates flame proof hose all the way .

Have run hose down and back up to turbo to keep it away from the ex housing a bit,,it now connects vertically not horizontal if that makes any sense..

Pretty sure water can pump up hill cant it?

It doesnt go any higher than original, goes from rail under plenum straight around back of head under heater hoses,but instead of going straight to turbo goes down and then back up again ..

By bleed bolt is that the bolt right up the top at front of the plenum?

I was wondering what that was for

Edited by Arthur T3

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