Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just got a couple of quotes

my info:

26 years old

male

car in lock up garage.

daily driver

Just car:

$2230/year

excess: $7400!

agreed value: $150,000

Shannons:

$4011/year

excess: $1500

agreed value: $150,000

So either go shannons and drive like i stole it, go just cars and pussy foot around

What do you guys think?

  • Replies 159
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

You want stupid insurance costs...

Conclusion: Their here to make a profit and that's what they do well...

Not to mention we have to have a constantly available reserve stockpile of cash to payout for the event of disasters... has to cover about 1/4 or 1/3 of our customers in total.

Plus insurance companies have to invest as much of what they have so that they can make $$$.

just got a couple of quotes

my info:

26 years old

male

car in lock up garage.

daily driver

Just car:

$2230/year

excess: $7400!

agreed value: $150,000

Shannons:

$4011/year

excess: $1500

agreed value: $150,000

So either go shannons and drive like i stole it, go just cars and pussy foot around

What do you guys think?

my advice would be go with shannons. they are one of the better insurers and your first year will be $$ but I would guess your premium will quickly improve if you stay with them. plus if you do actually need to claim $7400 excess makes it not worth claiming for any accident under about $10K worth of damage (since you'll have to foot the excess and your premium will subsequently go up too). given that I think shannons is the better bet. more expensive for the first year but after that will improve.

Top lulz, i'm 23 and insuring a 2008 R35 GTR with RACV would cost me (full comp)

Car Comprehensive

Annual Amount $1,573.34

Monthly Instalment $142.20

Proposed start date 19 June 2010

Vehicle 2008 NISSAN GTR IMP COUPE 3.8 Litres

Market Value including modifications

** Excesses

spacer.gifBasic Excess: $2,000

Age Excess: Driver under 25 years $400

So the moral of the story is dont lose your license and you will be a rich man.

Bugger me. . .I am paying $1400 for my Stag in Sydney rating 1 over 35 driver perfect driving history.. . $1573 for a R35 GTR seems great. . God Sydney sucks.

Bugger me. . .I am paying $1400 for my Stag in Sydney rating 1 over 35 driver perfect driving history.. . $1573 for a R35 GTR seems great. . God Sydney sucks.

God knows why, but your 100% right about that. Add to that the fact that the that insurance estimate is based on Frankston 3199, the car theft capital of South Eastern Melbourne. I did some math on just insuring my Commodore and its 120% more expensive where I live in Sydney than back in Frankston. Maybe its just the crap quality Sydneys makes the insurance companys think that more accidents would happen there? If anyone is in the insurance game the actual reason would be greatly appreciated.

try suncorp if you havent already Druzilla

my policy is 1900 per annum. 1100 excess. but I am 35, have been a good boy and live in Brisbane.

just bught a falcadore to punt the expanding tribe around in when I cant get the wifes XC90. insurance $500 with $500 excess :P

try suncorp if you havent already Druzilla

my policy is 1900 per annum. 1100 excess. but I am 35, have been a good boy and live in Brisbane.

just bught a falcadore to punt the expanding tribe around in when I cant get the wifes XC90. insurance $500 with $500 excess :P

thanks for the info.. I will try suncorp tomorrow, price looks great.

I have good driving record, Lost my licence once 7 years ago dure to defects (too low+loud etc.)

Im actually driving my gtr on the streets less and less too.. Its just too painfull to go slow! Only drive it about 2 times a week.

my advice would be go with shannons. they are one of the better insurers and your first year will be $$ but I would guess your premium will quickly improve if you stay with them. plus if you do actually need to claim $7400 excess makes it not worth claiming for any accident under about $10K worth of damage (since you'll have to foot the excess and your premium will subsequently go up too). given that I think shannons is the better bet. more expensive for the first year but after that will improve.

thanks for the advise. I was thinking that too.. EG. someone keys my car and damage is 8K.. pointless using insurance if with just car, but with shannons it makes sence.

I will check out suncorp and if thats a no go, I will go with shannons.

cheers,

Drew

that's pretty harsh. my R35 was around $1500 per annum and exccess I think was $1000 from memory. sydney, garaged, driver over 25 but under 30. rating 1. it was insured for $160K.

having said that the premium on my R32 GTR insured for $35K was around the same (well couple hundred less). go figure.

"Egocentricity the folly of the young" Put yourself in the insurance companies place, if ti was your business and you had to take the risk would you insure someone with that record? LOL your kidding right 3 times in 5 years of course you won't get insurance with that record, and especially not on a low volume performance import .

Edited by gerryb

just read the whole thread! wow...1st time i've been here in ages and now i remember why i hardly go on, a bloke asks a simple question and all the internet warriors come out with their high and mighty stance, ye sure its not a great look to lose your license 3 times in 5 yrs, but it can happen. Maybe we should give him suggestions about what his options might be instead of burning him on a stake.

FYI: had my R33 since i was 18 in Victoria, im 27 now 200.000+ clicks done on the car all around victoria, never have lost a point or have had any hassles by the cops, but last month got done twice by a mobile speed camera on a Sunday morning on a perfectly straight empty road for being 7 km's over the speed limit. so it does happen.

I love how people assume that 5k on a 180k car isn't much.

Myt brothers car costs 9.5k to insure BUT it is worth 850k.

Work it out.

i would hate to live in that NANNA state. I would be just like you.

just on that also, i work in the insurance industry and it doesn't quiet work like that, while the value of the car is a factor its not the end and be all of everything. Its mainly based on the 1. Car type 2. Risk of the driver 3. Location. 5K on a fully kitted Audi S5 is a bit much, but 5K on a GTR with a fairly young driver (under 35) is actually not too bad, depending on what kind of cover your getting. You will find that there will be a lot more claims being made on a R35 than on a S5, thus this will drive the premiums up. I don't know what kind of car the 850K is, but chances are its prob not a daily driver, where as many pplz will use a GTR as a dialy driver (which is one of its selling points) so thus the risk of the vehicle having a accident is a lot higher, and will drive premiums.

wtf? I haven't seen an on topic post since about the first one. And if I banned everyone that has talked off topic crap and made personal attacks there would be no-one left on SAU.

This thread is absolute rubbish.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...